Half Shaft Joint

[Mirez]

Whilst under the car fitting the replacement sump (done, sender works - not leaking yay!) I took a good look at the o/s halfshaft joint and to be honest it looks quite dodgy! If I grab hold of the shaft I can rotate it about a mm and there are clearly filings of a copper colour metal around it and the surround so its probably on the way out (66k)

 

I've taken a good read on here but there seems to be some confusion about exactly what needs to be replaced and where to get it from. So to those that have done it:

 

1) The coupler from the gearbox to the end of the halfshaft is a dealer only part right?

2) The halfshaft itself, can that be sourced from a factors or is that dealer only as well?

3) Should the carrier/bearing assembly be renewed at the same time?

 

and then if anyones able to explain exactly why this joint is here it would help as I can't work out why there should be any movement in it at all - the bearing and circlip should stop it sliding from side to side but that seems to be the cause of the failure? I dont really see why it can't be welded to make one shaft?

[Bigjeeze]

When I did mine ( @ 101K) I bought a new half shaft at first thinking that was all that was needed - However on inspection I also decided to change the gearbox flange as well as the splines looked rather worn. I haven't as yet replaced an inner cv joint - they are a curious design unlike normal CV joints. I have the same symptoms now as when it failed last time ( I now have 160K on the clock) but I am no longer sure where the problem actually is!!. It feels like I have an eginew restrainer or mounting gone - when changing gear or on the overrun there is a very clear clunk - but as I say I don't know where it's actually coming from but I am thinking I will have to cnage the gearbox flange and half shart again. I don't think either is a factors part.

[rookie123]

I recently had the same job done on my Alhambra.

Tried EVERYWHERE for the gearbox flange and half shaft but in the end had to bite the bullet and go down the dealer route.

Both parts cost exactly the same (coincidence???) and were around

[Mirez]

Thanks guys, I think I will actually take a punt on a weld.

 

I really can't see why this should be moving at all - In my opinion, the movement should be taken up by the inner CV joint, this joint is the one that runs right next to the turbo > intercooler pipe and its said that the heat from this pipe cooks the CV grease and raises the resistance in that joint. Its certainly a theory that could be possible, I'll take another look next weekend (and maybe learn to weld in the meantime!)

[Willie Krashitt]

I agree with you Mirez - It does seem rather strange to have this 'sliding joint' in the drive line. As far as I know it is unique in theVW group, and Ford don't use it either. I suspect that it was originally an assembly assist - cv joints could be tightened off the vehicle, and joint took up any tolerance issues. Made even less sense on earlier designs, as the centre bearing was held rigid in an alloy extension from the transmission case.

 

That said, as regard welding, you will only be able to get minimal weld penentration and you run the risk of adding a permanent run out in the shaft. In addition, you will be unable to remove the retaining bolt from the centre of the shaft (or install it if you weld off vehicle).

 

If you pull it down, you may be lucky to find minimal wear and all you need to do is repack it with some really good high pressure grease - motorbike chain grease is excellent - and your problems will be put off for quite a while. If a lot of wear, then if splines shear you lose all drive.

 

Whatever you choose to do (I renewed mine on my previous car at 110.000 miles) read up on your TIS - there is something about not allowing the inner CV to go more than 20 degrees out of line.

 

George.

[Mirez]

Cheers George, I must say I'm not that happy to weld for exactly the reasons you've given but