Mk1 Immobiliser / Ignition Problem - Help!

[CGCred]

I have a Mk1 Galaxy that has developed a starting problem.

 

I've been advised on the forum that I've likely lost the PATs chip out of the remote key.

 

The remote key doesn't have a chip so that looks indeed correct.

 

However, I have swapped the ECU, immobiliser and ignition barrel from a different car [which has flat keys, only one of which has the chip] and the same symptoms happen: Car starts immediately and then door led flashes and car cuts out.

 

It does this with any combination of the two ecu's, immobilisers, ignition barrels and keys.

 

One side issue is that the brown and red wire going to the connector on the ignition barrel has previously been cut or damaged and has been soldered back together [there's no splits so it's not a circuit issue].

 

The serial numbers of the ecu and immobilisers do not match [mine is a Ghia 2.0 and the spares are from an Aspen 2.0], but as the symptoms are the same I'm not sure this makes any difference.

 

I'm expecting the next step to be to put the original stuff back on, rob the PATS chip from the spares and go see an Auto-electrician.

 

Any other ideas?

 

By the way, who decided to put the ecu behind the clocks!!?

[cyborg]

I have a Mk1 Galaxy that has developed a starting problem.

 

I've been advised on the forum that I've likely lost the PATs chip out of the remote key.

 

The remote key doesn't have a chip so that looks indeed correct.

 

However, I have swapped the ECU, immobiliser and ignition barrel from a different car [which has flat keys, only one of which has the chip] and the same symptoms happen: Car starts immediately and then door led flashes and car cuts out.

 

It does this with any combination of the two ecu's, immobilisers, ignition barrels and keys.

 

One side issue is that the brown and red wire going to the connector on the ignition barrel has previously been cut or damaged and has been soldered back together [there's no splits so it's not a circuit issue].

 

The serial numbers of the ecu and immobilisers do not match [mine is a Ghia 2.0 and the spares are from an Aspen 2.0], but as the symptoms are the same I'm not sure this makes any difference.

 

I'm expecting the next step to be to put the original stuff back on, rob the PATS chip from the spares and go see an Auto-electrician.

 

Any other ideas?

 

By the way, who decided to put the ecu behind the clocks!!?

hi did you replace the black ring around the lock which detects the pats chip

and i guess you replaced the pats control brown box size of fag packet under ecu white wires going to it?

[CGCred]

I have a Mk1 Galaxy that has developed a starting problem.

 

I've been advised on the forum that I've likely lost the PATs chip out of the remote key.

 

The remote key doesn't have a chip so that looks indeed correct.

 

However, I have swapped the ECU, immobiliser and ignition barrel from a different car [which has flat keys, only one of which has the chip] and the same symptoms happen: Car starts immediately and then door led flashes and car cuts out.

 

It does this with any combination of the two ecu's, immobilisers, ignition barrels and keys.

 

One side issue is that the brown and red wire going to the connector on the ignition barrel has previously been cut or damaged and has been soldered back together [there's no splits so it's not a circuit issue].

 

The serial numbers of the ecu and immobilisers do not match [mine is a Ghia 2.0 and the spares are from an Aspen 2.0], but as the symptoms are the same I'm not sure this makes any difference.

 

I'm expecting the next step to be to put the original stuff back on, rob the PATS chip from the spares and go see an Auto-electrician.

 

Any other ideas?

 

By the way, who decided to put the ecu behind the clocks!!?

hi did you replace the black ring around the lock which detects the pats chip

and i guess you replaced the pats control brown box size of fag packet under ecu white wires going to it?

 

Hi, didn't know about any of that...

I've been advised that the crank sensor would need a re-program, but this is not likely either!!!

 

The way forward is to get the VEHICLE SECURITY NUMBER from Ford, which can then be used by a decent Auto-electrician to re-program the key!

Ford will not like giving the number [as it means you don't need to go to them...] but as it is your car then they cannot legally prevent you accessing this information.

Save yourself a fortune!!!

[mk2vr6]

to put it bluntly your Fkd! if you seperate the main ECU from the pats ECU the link is lost and the main ECU will not accept it back or another one without being told to do so! good luck looks like you need a trip to the dealers and hooking up to their system to re intialise the link!