Weird Clutch

[Bigjeeze]

When my clutch was going that was what I had - dragging clutch. In my case when I removed the clutch the driven plate had disintegrated so that the material was still in place but had separated by the rivets - this gave me drive but I couldn't disengage. I am now beginning to think you have fitted the wrong clutch parts. When mine went I got a new parts which matched exactly - I then decided to change the DMF (flywheel) and it was only when trying to fit it that I realised that they didn't match the flywheel - I had to go back and get a complete kit of driven plate, pressure plate and DMF all matched ( LUK). I assume the slave cylinder is also correct?

 

I know you probably don't want to hear that but it does seem a possibility.

Edited January 10, 2010 by Bigjeeze

[spanny]

Afternoon Guys,

 

We came across a bit more information on the dreaded pulsing pedal and clutch creep when we got back shortly after the christmas break. We found out that on the 6 speed box, the input shaft can have some play in it, this one reported was around 1/2 an inch of forward and backward movement. Obviously if this is the case, regardless of if the clutch pedal is fully depressed, if the input shaft is moving forwards and backwards its going to cause the clutch to be engaging.

 

Were going to be looking in this area, and see if we can pin point this as being the problem. After looking on Elsawin + ETKA at the drawings of the 5 + 6 speed boxes on the sharan / Alhambra's there is a roller taper bearing on the input shaft (inside the housing of the box) and we also came across info about shimming this taper roller bearing i presume to compensate for any wear? I'm guessing if the bearing isnt shimmed correctly or sufficiently then this could cause the problems.

 

Once we have more info ill get back to you all.

 

Regards

Daniel

[sidcos]

Afternoon Guys,

 

We came across a bit more information on the dreaded pulsing pedal and clutch creep when we got back shortly after the christmas break. We found out that on the 6 speed box, the input shaft can have some play in it, this one reported was around 1/2 an inch of forward and backward movement. Obviously if this is the case, regardless of if the clutch pedal is fully depressed, if the input shaft is moving forwards and backwards its going to cause the clutch to be engaging.

 

Were going to be looking in this area, and see if we can pin point this as being the problem. After looking on Elsawin + ETKA at the drawings of the 5 + 6 speed boxes on the sharan / Alhambra's there is a roller taper bearing on the input shaft (inside the housing of the box) and we also came across info about shimming this taper roller bearing i presume to compensate for any wear? I'm guessing if the bearing isnt shimmed correctly or sufficiently then this could cause the problems.

 

Once we have more info ill get back to you all.

 

Regards

Daniel

 

Thanks for coming back Daniel.

I can't figure out how it can be the parts, as on occasion it's fine, like this weekend all gears were fine, hardly ever had any probs getting first or reverse, and ultimately, no probs getting out of gears. Neither did I experience the drag. However now it's back to its old self again!

I rang Eurocar parts and they agreed to refund on old parts if i send them all back, but I had to buy all new bits again-

[spanny]

Afternoon Guys,

 

We came across a bit more information on the dreaded pulsing pedal and clutch creep when we got back shortly after the christmas break. We found out that on the 6 speed box, the input shaft can have some play in it, this one reported was around 1/2 an inch of forward and backward movement. Obviously if this is the case, regardless of if the clutch pedal is fully depressed, if the input shaft is moving forwards and backwards its going to cause the clutch to be engaging.

 

Were going to be looking in this area, and see if we can pin point this as being the problem. After looking on Elsawin + ETKA at the drawings of the 5 + 6 speed boxes on the sharan / Alhambra's there is a roller taper bearing on the input shaft (inside the housing of the box) and we also came across info about shimming this taper roller bearing i presume to compensate for any wear? I'm guessing if the bearing isnt shimmed correctly or sufficiently then this could cause the problems.

 

Once we have more info ill get back to you all.

 

Regards

Daniel

 

Thanks for coming back Daniel.

I can't figure out how it can be the parts, as on occasion it's fine, like this weekend all gears were fine, hardly ever had any probs getting first or reverse, and ultimately, no probs getting out of gears. Neither did I experience the drag. However now it's back to its old self again!

I rang Eurocar parts and they agreed to refund on old parts if i send them all back, but I had to buy all new bits again-

[sidcos]

Thanks for info, I too will come back with any info!

Sid

[Starbug99]

Hi Gents,

 

I also have an

[sidcos]

Hi Gents,

 

I also have an

[sidcos]

Finally sorted!!! :25:

DMF was shot, filings everywhere. Clutch and plate seemed fine, although few small marks, but changed as box was off.

Car now drives fines, no more lazy pedal either!

Just to confirm, changed DMF, complete clutch and CSS. Did not bother with master cyl as that can easily be accessed later.

 

Sid

 

Galaxy '03 1.9tdi

[sidcos]

Finally sorted!!! :D

DMF was shot, filings everywhere. Clutch and plate seemed fine, although few small marks, but changed as box was off.

Car now drives fines, no more lazy pedal either!

Just to confirm, changed DMF, complete clutch and CSS. Did not bother with master cyl as that can easily be accessed later.

 

Sid

 

Galaxy '03 1.9tdi

 

Guess what chaps, it's back...Sticking in first and reverse! New complete clutch kit lasted what just over a month!

It must be the box then? :)

[paulh]

Just thought I would bump this back up as I'm having the same problem. Slave cylinder went, so put new clutch in while it was stripped, DMF was still quite new so didn't need replacing, bled clutch with pressure bleeder which seemed to improve things a bit but its far from perfect.

[seatkid]

I seem to remember someone posting a long time ago about clutch problems that eventually was down to the actuator fork (i.e the bit between the slave cylinder and the release bearing) in the gearbox having a sheared or damaged mounting point.

[SteveF]

Hi,

 

So in a nutshell has anyone actually had their's fixed.

 

I have an '03 1.9tdi (130) with 82k miles. I have exactly the same problem as most including difficulty in getting into 1st / Reverse (have to switch the engine off sometimes to change), the pedal returning late and tapping you on the foot and also creeping when pedal fully depressed.

 

In December I took the vehicle to the main dealer and they bled the system. When I picked it up - Great! it worked, biting point seemed higher and easy to get into gear. Then, gradually over the next day, back to the problem. After Christmas, took car back to the dealer who said master cylinder needed replacing - Great! it worked again. Then, over the next couple of days, back to the problem.

 

Week later, have taken it back yet again and this time they suspect the slave cylinder and suggested clutch replacement as well. From this forum it seems quite common yet the solution seems so difficult for them to find. I am just worried that I will keep paying out for different things (that may or may not need replacing) just to get to the bottom of it.

 

I have 2 weeks before I get it back into the garage for the clutch replacement so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Regards

Steve

[Bigjeeze]

Hi,

 

So in a nutshell has anyone actually had their's fixed.

 

I have an '03 1.9tdi (130) with 82k miles. I have exactly the same problem as most including difficulty in getting into 1st / Reverse (have to switch the engine off sometimes to change), the pedal returning late and tapping you on the foot and also creeping when pedal fully depressed.

 

In December I took the vehicle to the main dealer and they bled the system. When I picked it up - Great! it worked, biting point seemed higher and easy to get into gear. Then, gradually over the next day, back to the problem. After Christmas, took car back to the dealer who said master cylinder needed replacing - Great! it worked again. Then, over the next couple of days, back to the problem.

 

Week later, have taken it back yet again and this time they suspect the slave cylinder and suggested clutch replacement as well. From this forum it seems quite common yet the solution seems so difficult for them to find. I am just worried that I will keep paying out for different things (that may or may not need replacing) just to get to the bottom of it.

 

I have 2 weeks before I get it back into the garage for the clutch replacement so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Regards

Steve

 

Well given that essentially every time it is bled ir works I am afraid it points very definitely to the slave cylinder. Whether there is anything more sinister will have to wait until the gearbox is removed.

 

Sorry but that's how it appears.

[SteveF]

Hi Bigjeeze,

 

Thanks for the advice. I am already braving myself for the cost and hope this cures it.

 

Regards

SteveF

[paulh]

Hi Bigjeeze,

 

Thanks for the advice. I am already braving myself for the cost and hope this cures it.

 

Regards

SteveF

 

I wouldn't hold your breath, mine started when I had the clutch and slave cylinder done.

A mechanic I spoke to at Ford had a look for me and seems to think there is a pressure valve somewhere in the system that prevente the plate moving to fast if for instance your foot slipped off the pedal, and this is whats causing the problem.

[paulh]

Been doing a bit more digging round and came up with this

 

http://w3ww.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=4&t=72619

 

Anyone else heard of this?

[paulh]

OK lataest update. I changed the bleed nipple t piece as this has a one way valve (half the price at VW than Frauds wanted btw). Absolutely no improvement. I'm convinced there is air in there or there is a problem at the reservoir, whereby the system is being pressurised/depressurised by the brake servo. Looking at TIS it says to use a special tool for bleeding, and from the description it seems to connect to the bleed nipple and pump the fluid back through the system? Has anyone else tried using one?

[Bigjeeze]

OK lataest update. I changed the bleed nipple t piece as this has a one way valve (half the price at VW than Frauds wanted btw). Absolutely no improvement. I'm convinced there is air in there or there is a problem at the reservoir, whereby the system is being pressurised/depressurised by the brake servo. Looking at TIS it says to use a special tool for bleeding, and from the description it seems to connect to the bleed nipple and pump the fluid back through the system? Has anyone else tried using one?

 

The bleed tool for the clutch uses vacuum rather than the traditional pressure type - so in effect it sucks the fluid in rather than blows it - I managed to bodeg one out of my eezibleed and got it working that way - Your best bet is to see if you can borrow or hire one. I think that the TIS hasa good explanation of what is required - you can buy them off Joust off base I think. http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Tool-Shop/Brake-Bleeding

Edited March 7, 2011 by Bigjeeze

[paulh]

Ok latest update. Tried a vacuum bleeder, no difference.

Then on the advice of a Ford technician I have back bled the system using a pressure bleeding kit. While it hasn't cured it it has made a significant improvement. If you try it make sure to take some fluid out of the reservoir first!

[sidcos]

Hi folks,

Well not good news I'm afraid, so far anyway!

I've put up with this for over a year and 20K miles. However last week started additionaly having difficlutly changing down through the gears. Spoke to another chap who suggested changing the fluid and adding some additives, however whilst on route to Audi whlist sat in traffic in neutral tried to engage first-nothing! No gears at all. Switched off igniton exactly the same problem?

Forced the stick and it just would not go into gear, note engine was off. All off a sudden managed to get it into reverse, started up car thinking it was first and almost hit the vehicle behind, hey presto gears return but have to push stick hard to select gears. Drove to garage bought oil, but on way home exactly the same thing happened, but this time I was doing about 45 on the dual carriage way and lost all gears whilst trying to change from 5 to 6. Fortunately rolled into the layby, and same thing, engine off no gears, then all of a sudden they came back. Started up and drove home where I've parked up and not moved the car since! All the time the clutch pedal has felt exactly the same so I dont believe it is hydraulic at all.

I now believe it may be the box, although some one has mentioned checking linkages first.

I've been quoted

[caspermccormack]

Sorted???

[BigDog]

Just for the record, 3.5 years and probably 20k miles later I've still not bled it and the clutch drag and slip hasn't recurred. The pedal is still popping up and down when on and off the power. I think I'm the only one in this thread with this experience of clutch hydraulics magically fixing themselves, seems difficult to believe but that's the fact of it.

Matt

[mrben]

Hmm. So the conclusion is?? I have a mk1 and thinking of buying this mk2 iv seen, but this thread has kind of put me off. Was only gonna get cause its newer, but mk1 is great even if it is an old banger!

[Barlidge]

+1 for the Weird Clutch Syndrome.

 

I have just changed my clutch (flywheel/clutch and slave and despite bleeding with both a vacuum bleeder and by the traditional method virtually straight away I had all the above symptoms. I repeated the bleeding a couple of times without any change.

 

As it happened within a few days I had to remove the box again anyway due to a problem with the offside stubb axle (I will add this to Mirez's thread) prior to refitting the box I removed the slave from the box and filled a small cup with brake fluid and dipped the end of the slave in and pumped it repeatedly until all the air was out thus 'pre charging' the slave with fluid, then rotated it and tapped it with the connector uppermost and repeated this about three times.

 

All refitted and bled only a quarter of a cup through to clear the air in the 10" pipe between the flexible pipe and the T piece and so far the pedal is solid and consistent, early days yet but though i'd share.