blackwolf0578 Posted December 2, 2009 Report Posted December 2, 2009 Hello my Galaxy fans need a bit of advice really It all started four years ago when i bought and fell in love with my Gal not long after i met you lot and a wonderful relationship blossomed :16: problem is last thursday my Gal started making funny noises, you know the type...like when you clean your spanners in the wifes washing machine, anyway limped to nearby engineers i've used in past and he suspects the crank...BIG EXPENSIVE JOB only i'm not so sure you see not long ago i was told (by different garage) that i didn't have a blocked injector as i thought but a stuck valve...so could this injector now be the cause of my problems.... AND NOW THE BIG QUESTION :31: :31: would i be wise to spend yet more money replacing broken bits whether it be crank or valve or do i retire my Gal and strip her down and sell th bits that are saleable? :16: i might add in last 12 months she's had new clutch/flywheel/master and slave cylinders new turbo(prob only done 10 thou) battery, alty, main belt svs 35000 ago and thats without usual stuff like brakes tyres etc as usual your input would be most valuble :D Quote
tim-spam Posted December 2, 2009 Report Posted December 2, 2009 First thing to do is diagnose the problem - what makes your friend suspect the crank? This is very unlikely - big end failure sounds like a very heavy knocking noise and is usually accompanied by partial or full engine siezure. It would also be worse with a warm engine. Main bearing failure usually sounds like something between a knock and a rumble, and is very rare. Crank breakage usually means you stop right where you are. So that means it's probably something else - a dribbling injector or poor injection timing can cause a significant amount of noise, as can cam wear. Quote
blackwolf0578 Posted December 2, 2009 Author Report Posted December 2, 2009 First thing to do is diagnose the problem - what makes your friend suspect the crank? This is very unlikely - big end failure sounds like a very heavy knocking noise and is usually accompanied by partial or full engine siezure. It would also be worse with a warm engine. Main bearing failure usually sounds like something between a knock and a rumble, and is very rare. Crank breakage usually means you stop right where you are. So that means it's probably something else - a dribbling injector or poor injection timing can cause a significant amount of noise, as can cam wear. just remembered another person said a tip off an injector would make this kind of noise any one heard of a tip falling off an injector? :16: Quote
seatkid Posted December 2, 2009 Report Posted December 2, 2009 (edited) Diagnose the problem - you mentioned you changed flwheel/clutch. I would start there - could be some muppet didnt tighten or overtightened the bolts or reused non-reusable bolts. The repair should be under warranty if less than 12 months. If the garage it is at now did the clutch/flywheel, they may be inclined to steer you away from that possibilty. Crank failure highly unlikely - bearings fail gradually and is a dull rev related knock that gets louder usually over weeks. Rare on 1.9 tdi. Crank/piston breakage,usually means immobile engine again rare. Bits in the piston/head area (bits of valve,injector,old bits of turbo) would mean **severe** engine running diffculty. Nope - reckon its that cheap flywheel/clutch job....... Set yourself a ceiling on how much money and time you want to spend on a 240,000 mile spaceship. I wouldnt spend more than Edited December 2, 2009 by seatkid Quote
blackwolf0578 Posted December 2, 2009 Author Report Posted December 2, 2009 thanx again, anythig specific that steered you to clutch seatkid, as on way back the clutch didn't seem to be slipping :16: Quote
gregers Posted December 2, 2009 Report Posted December 2, 2009 thanx again, anythig specific that steered you to clutch seatkid, as on way back the clutch didn't seem to be slipping :16: knowledge me thinks lol. Quote
seatkid Posted December 3, 2009 Report Posted December 3, 2009 (edited) thanx again, anythig specific that steered you to clutch seatkid, as on way back the clutch didn't seem to be slipping :huh:you mentioned "replaced flywheel" - I visualised several bolts taken out and replaced - your description of something rattling around in washing machine......just a hunch..... If your car is a 110bhp or 115bhp model - don't they have a DMF? (Dual mass flywheel - known to fail with horrible noise/vibration) Edited December 3, 2009 by seatkid Quote
blackwolf0578 Posted December 3, 2009 Author Report Posted December 3, 2009 mine is the 110 bhp version where would you start on diagnosing problem without a major strip down and re build???? i've worked on cars since my teens sripping and re building cortinas and an early modeo but never a completely stripped a transverse engine also to get me by i've got a 55 plate mondeo 105000 on clock so would it be needing a belt change at 120000? Quote
big_kev Posted December 3, 2009 Report Posted December 3, 2009 as usual your input would be most valuble :huh: Its worth more in bits .....break it down. Quote
blackwolf0578 Posted December 4, 2009 Author Report Posted December 4, 2009 as usual your input would be most valuble :D Its worth more in bits .....break it down. Thanx Big Kev just what i didn't need to hear :huh: :D that being the case is there a mondeo site half as good as this one ??? Quote
big_kev Posted December 4, 2009 Report Posted December 4, 2009 that being the case is there a mondeo site half as good as this one ??? ? You do know that there is a mini mondeo site on this forum ? Click UK Autos at the top and then scroll down. Quote
Mirez Posted December 4, 2009 Report Posted December 4, 2009 (edited) that being the case is there a mondeo site half as good as this one ??? www.fordmondeo.org ;) Edited December 4, 2009 by Mirez Quote
blackwolf0578 Posted December 5, 2009 Author Report Posted December 5, 2009 THANX ALL FOR YOUR INPUT I'll probably be working on whatever problem it is next year maybe feb so watch this space for more questions and solutions once again thanx ;) oh and MERRY XMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL !!! Quote
the-boss Posted December 16, 2009 Report Posted December 16, 2009 sorry for the late entry .... ive worked on a few of these now and one in particular the hydrolic buckets had worn out is it chuffing or knocking if it is then remove the rocker cover and you will see the buckets if this is whats gone the a fully recon head will cost you from Quote
Michael_H Posted December 17, 2009 Report Posted December 17, 2009 My Gal has 324K on the clock. I still repair it and not thinking about replacing. Better the devil you know...BTW, what could be the cause of the car pulling to the left after alignment, tracking, ball joints and wishbones replaced? Quote
seatkid Posted December 17, 2009 Report Posted December 17, 2009 My Gal has 324K on the clock. I still repair it and not thinking about replacing. Better the devil you know...BTW, what could be the cause of the car pulling to the left after alignment, tracking, ball joints and wishbones replaced?Try swapping tyres over. Quote
Michael_H Posted December 17, 2009 Report Posted December 17, 2009 Thanks SEATKID. But would that not simply move the problem to the right? Or are you simply suggesting a diagnosis method to see if it is caused by the wheels/tyres? Quote
seatkid Posted December 18, 2009 Report Posted December 18, 2009 (edited) Thanks SEATKID. But would that not simply move the problem to the right? Or are you simply suggesting a diagnosis method to see if it is caused by the wheels/tyres? From experience..... I found one of my previous Conti tyres (yes .... i know) which had a puncture repair, toward the end of it life developed a wobble and pulling sharply to one side - it was the repair to blame. I found out recently what that those coloured lines on the treads of brand new tyres were. They signify the measured drag characteristics of the tyre. Those with marks closely grouped in the middle run true and straight whereas those with marks offest to one side, pull to one side. The theory is you should get a pair of tyre that are matched or balance out to stop the car drifting to one side or another. Eliminate the tyres first ...... Camber ?yes could be camber problem - unfortunately its not really adjustable - although I reckon someone really determined could tweak it by moving that bit thats bolted to the upright strut. You might also find that a sideways bash on a rear wheel or worn bushes (front or rear) may have upset the geometry, causing crabbing. Edited December 18, 2009 by seatkid Quote
Scorpiorefugee Posted December 18, 2009 Report Posted December 18, 2009 (edited) Michael H, You do not say when it started. If it started after all the work was done then you should check the credentials of the repair man. If it happened gradually then I reckon SeatKid is well on the money. If it happened suddenly prior to the repair then it's worth trying to relate it to something which happened about the same time. My experience of this sort of thing is that it is a man made fault (poor workmanship) or, as Seatkid says, tyres. Edited December 18, 2009 by Scorpiorefugee Quote
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