Battery Drain Problems

[brawlski]

I have got a battery drain issue that i can't get to the bottom of.

 

measuring the drain current i get .4 amps ie.e too much.

 

taking out the fuses and the replacing them one by one doesn't identify a circuit that is the problem? does this mean the drain is some circuit outwith the fuse box? (i have also tried the 3 fuses in the aux battery fuse box under the bonnet.

 

what else can it be?

 

something else i noticed was that the coolant run on pump continued to run even when i disconected the battery???? does it have a capacitor discharging to keep it going? it did eventually stop.

 

i also have a flashing CC panel, had it for a while, but i don't thing is is related as pulling the fuse shold have identifed it

 

stuck :wacko:

[brawlski]

I have got a battery drain issue that i can't get to the bottom of.

 

measuring the drain current i get .4 amps ie.e too much.

 

taking out the fuses and the replacing them one by one doesn't identify a circuit that is the problem? does this mean the drain is some circuit outwith the fuse box? (i have also tried the 3 fuses in the aux battery fuse box under the bonnet.

 

what else can it be?

 

something else i noticed was that the coolant run on pump continued to run even when i disconected the battery???? does it have a capacitor discharging to keep it going? it did eventually stop.

 

i also have a flashing CC panel, had it for a while, but i don't thing is is related as pulling the fuse shold have identifed it

 

stuck :wacko:

should have mentioned its a 2004 2.3 ghia

[turk90210]

I'm afraid I can't be specific on your fault as I have a diesel model but that said diagnosis should be similar. Also you need to bare in mind that on modern cars the ECU's can take anything up to 30-45 mins to shut down properly and some when you just unlock the doors or open the doors power up the ECU so diagnosic can be difficult

How are you checking for this drain, is it with a digital multimeter or the less accurate amp clamps. I ask as I use both at work and get different reading for the same thing but much prefer the multimeter approach as it is more accurate and as a general rule more than .1amp is classed as a drain , as mentioned though if you have a higher spec car you need to allow a time scale for the various ECU's to shut down properly and also allow a slightly higher drain to keep all the memory's alive

If as you say you have removed ALL the fuses aswell as the under bonnet one's and there has been no change then you have to think of circuits that are not fuse protected commonly alternator/starter ect but as we know the alternator on the gal is fuse protected

Also don't discount the obvious, ie Battery. I have had battery's go faulty and show a drain so a known good substitute helps as a last resort

 

I'm not aware of a capacitor discharge to keep anything on the gal's running after the battery has been disconnected but diagnosing cars can always be a learning curve. I could be wrong as I have never had this myself but I would have thought that the run on pump was ECU controlled or worked off a temp sensor which allows it to run to help prevent a rise in temperature in the engine when turned off,which would be connected to the battery. alot of the early german made cars did this you would sometimes hear the radiator fan cut in after the ignition was turned off and you were walking away from the vehicle some thought it was a fault but it is there for a reason

[brawlski]

I'm afraid I can't be specific on your fault as I have a diesel model but that said diagnosis should be similar. Also you need to bare in mind that on modern cars the ECU's can take anything up to 30-45 mins to shut down properly and some when you just unlock the doors or open the doors power up the ECU so diagnosic can be difficult

How are you checking for this drain, is it with a digital multimeter or the less accurate amp clamps. I ask as I use both at work and get different reading for the same thing but much prefer the multimeter approach as it is more accurate and as a general rule more than .1amp is classed as a drain , as mentioned though if you have a higher spec car you need to allow a time scale for the various ECU's to shut down properly and also allow a slightly higher drain to keep all the memory's alive

If as you say you have removed ALL the fuses aswell as the under bonnet one's and there has been no change then you have to think of circuits that are not fuse protected commonly alternator/starter ect but as we know the alternator on the gal is fuse protected

Also don't discount the obvious, ie Battery. I have had battery's go faulty and show a drain so a known good substitute helps as a last resort

 

I'm not aware of a capacitor discharge to keep anything on the gal's running after the battery has been disconnected but diagnosing cars can always be a learning curve. I could be wrong as I have never had this myself but I would have thought that the run on pump was ECU controlled or worked off a temp sensor which allows it to run to help prevent a rise in temperature in the engine when turned off,which would be connected to the battery. alot of the early german made cars did this you would sometimes hear the radiator fan cut in after the ignition was turned off and you were walking away from the vehicle some thought it was a fault but it is there for a reason

 

 

 

i used one of those gunson automotive meters to measure the drain. it said to disconnect the +ve and put the meter in series that way? i hadn't realise dthe ecu took some time to power down, i just moved the car onto the drive way and went for it!! been pouring over all the battery threads and it seems the battery is as big a problem i have a replacement battery which i know see is a not a CA type battery!!

[jkspoff]

This might sound daft but I had a high drain on the battery and had to call out the AA when it ran flat, it is embarrassing to admit but it turned out to be the rear 12volt socket had a portable DVD player plugged in to it !! Have you checked the rear 12 volt socket ?

[brawlski]

This might sound daft but I had a high drain on the battery and had to call out the AA when it ran flat, it is embarrassing to admit but it turned out to be the rear 12volt socket had a portable DVD player plugged in to it !! Have you checked the rear 12 volt socket ?

 

 

yeah checked that (wife asked that one!!) i am going to check again (drain) after longer switch off period just to be sure the ECU is shut down etc. i also have a digital meter for conparison

 

 

will update as and when

[brawlski]

This might sound daft but I had a high drain on the battery and had to call out the AA when it ran flat, it is embarrassing to admit but it turned out to be the rear 12volt socket had a portable DVD player plugged in to it !! Have you checked the rear 12 volt socket ?

 

 

yeah checked that (wife asked that one!!) i am going to check again (drain) after longer switch off period just to be sure the ECU is shut down etc. i also have a digital meter for conparison

 

 

will update as and when

 

 

ok rechecked it after a bit and the drain settled at 0.2 Amp, confirmed with a digital multimeter, again i tried disconeccting thing that might be the cause but couldn't find anything, i have fitted HID's (these were fitted on my previous gal with no problems and i have fitted another set on my over car agin no probs) i have also fitted a tow bar but for the electrics i use one of these kits that plugs straight into the rear light loom so no wire cutting. also a new stereo. all these changes have been in the car for a good while and don't seem to cause any problems. as i said pulling fuses doesn't change the drain value so i don't thing any of these changes can be the cuase i.e there would have shown up when pulling the fuses?

 

can someone please tell me if i buy a new CA battery and i get a bigger one say 100AH (assuming it will fit) will be charged by the alt?

[luxtonm]

I have got a battery drain issue that i can't get to the bottom of.

 

measuring the drain current i get .4 amps ie.e too much.

 

taking out the fuses and the replacing them one by one doesn't identify a circuit that is the problem? does this mean the drain is some circuit outwith the fuse box? (i have also tried the 3 fuses in the aux battery fuse box under the bonnet.

 

what else can it be?

 

something else i noticed was that the coolant run on pump continued to run even when i disconected the battery???? does it have a capacitor discharging to keep it going? it did eventually stop.

 

i also have a flashing CC panel, had it for a while, but i don't thing is is related as pulling the fuse shold have identifed it

 

stuck :(

 

 

0.4 Amp, works out to approx 5 Watt, i.e. glove box light, vanity lighting etc, front door lighting etc. may be one of switches are stuck on.

 

0.4 Amp is too much as your battery would go flat in a week (approx 185 hours) assuming you've got a 75Amp/hr battery.

 

Also just another thought, has the car got a third party radio fitted?

 

Regards

Mike

[brawlski]

I have got a battery drain issue that i can't get to the bottom of.

 

measuring the drain current i get .4 amps ie.e too much.

 

taking out the fuses and the replacing them one by one doesn't identify a circuit that is the problem? does this mean the drain is some circuit outwith the fuse box? (i have also tried the 3 fuses in the aux battery fuse box under the bonnet.

 

what else can it be?

 

something else i noticed was that the coolant run on pump continued to run even when i disconected the battery???? does it have a capacitor discharging to keep it going? it did eventually stop.

 

i also have a flashing CC panel, had it for a while, but i don't thing is is related as pulling the fuse shold have identifed it

 

stuck :(

 

 

0.4 Amp, works out to approx 5 Watt, i.e. glove box light, vanity lighting etc, front door lighting etc. may be one of switches are stuck on.

 

0.4 Amp is too much as your battery would go flat in a week (approx 185 hours) assuming you've got a 75Amp/hr battery.

 

Also just another thought, has the car got a third party radio fitted?

 

Regards

Mike

 

 

it seems as though all the internal light go out, but surely if i pulled the fuse then the drain would disapear?

 

i do have a 3rd party stereo fitted but it's plugged into the existing loom via a iso connector block and again surely the pulling of the fuse would identify that, incidentally the radio memory etc was lost when i pulled the fuse so it definately had the power cut.

[Smilge]

By the sounds of it I reckon you'll need to start checking the door and tailgate looms. You're probably aware that the wires in the doors and tailgate have a tendancy to break and chaff so there's a possibility. Another thing to check is the main cables from the alternator to the battery via the main fuse box. These are also known to breakdown in time causing a high resistance and possibly short through the alternator.

[brawlski]

By the sounds of it I reckon you'll need to start checking the door and tailgate looms. You're probably aware that the wires in the doors and tailgate have a tendancy to break and chaff so there's a possibility. Another thing to check is the main cables from the alternator to the battery via the main fuse box. These are also known to breakdown in time causing a high resistance and possibly short through the alternator.

 

 

i have had the main fuse box problem, the thing was all melted at the alternator fuse, i had the whole uint and cables replaced, it's doesn't show any signs that it is happening again? at teh time the alternator was "checked" and i was told it was working a treat ie.e. pumping out 14+ volts.

 

where on the tailgate should i look?

 

also i have read through more and more threads on the site and people are saying that 200mA is a normal drain on the galaxy...is that right? if so then i don't have a problem.

 

i could just buy a big silver battery (Varta 600 402 083 3162. 100AH) and then it wouldn't drain so quickly. the car only get very short trips 5-10 mins 2 to 3 times a day

[Smilge]

Brawlski ...... if 200mA is the figure that's being bounded around then you probably don't have a drain problem. I suggest that your battery is on it's way out and obviously with all the short trips and the number of starts involved, then you're probably better off buying the correct battery for the car. I know they're a little more expensive but worth it in the end.

[davewill]

Another thing to check is the main cables from the alternator to the battery via the main fuse box. These are also known to breakdown in time causing a high resistance and possibly short through the alternator.

 

Bleeno is correct, had this on my Diesel (2006 model) only a month ago

 

Drained new Battery is 48 hours

 

Replacement of cable fixed problem, (and lightened my wallet by