Mk11 Nearside Cv Inner Boot Replacement

[Brash]

Hi

I've noticed that its split. and the Gals only done 5k since its last mot last year so hopefully the cv joints ok.

After replacing the discs and pads all round with information from this site ;) I was hopeing someone may have done this job before so could give me some advice on tackling it myself.I've bought the replacement rubber O.E.M boot and just need a few pointers to get me going.

Thanks

Phil

[Brash]

Hi

I've noticed that its split. and the Gals only done 5k since its last mot last year so hopefully the cv joints ok.

After replacing the discs and pads all round with information from this site :) I was hopeing someone may have done this job before so could give me some advice on tackling it myself.I've bought the replacement rubber O.E.M boot and just need a few pointers to get me going.

Thanks

Phil

Hi Again

Unfortunatly I havn't got a digital camera so no pics, but I got the cv boot changed successfully and its been ok now for 200mls .The order of replacement go's as follows;

1. Loosen large (27mm socket) centre hub bolt in middle of wheel (extremely tight)

2. Loosen 19mm socket wheel nuts.

3. Jack up the car and use axle stand to secure (so car is not supported by the jack).

4. Remove the wheel and remove the under engine tray( 4 bolts and 2 nuts with 10mm socket)

5. A star shaped male M12 socket bit is now needed to remove the 6 bolts on the engine side driveshaft cup.(use 1st gear to stop driveshaft turning)

6. Tie up drive shaft taking care not to bend the cv joints too much when removed.

7. Undo trackrod end ball joint (18mm socket) and bottom wishbone ball joint (21mm socket) and split joints.scissor type splitter needed so not to damage ball joint protection rubber.

8. Undo (using a 19mm Ring spanner) drop link bar using a (6mm I Think) allen key to stop it spinningand damaging protection rubber.

9. With the hub bolt inserted tap the bolt with a Nylon faced hammer to break the seal between hub and driveshaft.

10. Remove hub bolt and pull front strut towards you taking care not to drop the driveshaft.

11. Try to tie the strut to one side to make it easier for rebuilding (I did 'nt bother but it would be easier)

12. As soon as the front stut is pulled towards you with one hand you should find the drive shaft comes off in the other ( NO Gearbox oil will be lost due to the design of the cv joint cup arrangment).

13.Cut the old metal bands off the Damaged boot (Not the good one like I nearly did).

14. Pull the damaged Boot off taking notice which groove in the shaft and cup that the bands fasten in.

15. Remove the Circlip on the end of the driveshaft (new circlip supplied with boot)

16. Pull CV joint off splines and clean complete assembly.

17. Refit new boot , then cv joint, pack with grease and fasten metal bands with special pliers.

18. Rebuild and enjoy.

P.S Ball joint will now spin whilst you try to do the nut up (use a spanner and allen key in the end to stop it spinning)

 

I'm no mechanic and this may not be everyones way of doing it but after research and advice off here it took me approx 2.5 hrs to complete with a cup of tea half way

If anyone wants to change and use this in F.A.Q for everyones benefit their more than welcome.

[iluvm]

Hello Brash,

 

I did mine a few months ago and I didn't have to split ball joint, just undone the two allen bolts on bottom of ball joint. From the Ford procedure, the hub bolt should be replaced on reassembly as I presume it goe's into yield but I don't think it makes a great difference.

 

Hi

I've noticed that its split. and the Gals only done 5k since its last mot last year so hopefully the cv joints ok.

After replacing the discs and pads all round with information from this site :) I was hopeing someone may have done this job before so could give me some advice on tackling it myself.I've bought the replacement rubber O.E.M boot and just need a few pointers to get me going.

Thanks

Phil

Hi Again

Unfortunatly I havn't got a digital camera so no pics, but I got the cv boot changed successfully and its been ok now for 200mls .The order of replacement go's as follows;

1. Loosen large (27mm socket) centre hub bolt in middle of wheel (extremely tight)

2. Loosen 19mm socket wheel nuts.

3. Jack up the car and use axle stand to secure (so car is not supported by the jack).

4. Remove the wheel and remove the under engine tray( 4 bolts and 2 nuts with 10mm socket)

5. A star shaped male M12 socket bit is now needed to remove the 6 bolts on the engine side driveshaft cup.(use 1st gear to stop driveshaft turning)

6. Tie up drive shaft taking care not to bend the cv joints too much when removed.

7. Undo trackrod end ball joint (18mm socket) and bottom wishbone ball joint (21mm socket) and split joints.scissor type splitter needed so not to damage ball joint protection rubber.

8. Undo (using a 19mm Ring spanner) drop link bar using a (6mm I Think) allen key to stop it spinningand damaging protection rubber.

9. With the hub bolt inserted tap the bolt with a Nylon faced hammer to break the seal between hub and driveshaft.

10. Remove hub bolt and pull front strut towards you taking care not to drop the driveshaft.

11. Try to tie the strut to one side to make it easier for rebuilding (I did 'nt bother but it would be easier)

12. As soon as the front stut is pulled towards you with one hand you should find the drive shaft comes off in the other ( NO Gearbox oil will be lost due to the design of the cv joint cup arrangment).

13.Cut the old metal bands off the Damaged boot (Not the good one like I nearly did).

14. Pull the damaged Boot off taking notice which groove in the shaft and cup that the bands fasten in.

15. Remove the Circlip on the end of the driveshaft (new circlip supplied with boot)

16. Pull CV joint off splines and clean complete assembly.

17. Refit new boot , then cv joint, pack with grease and fasten metal bands with special pliers.

18. Rebuild and enjoy.

P.S Ball joint will now spin whilst you try to do the nut up (use a spanner and allen key in the end to stop it spinning)

 

I'm no mechanic and this may not be everyones way of doing it but after research and advice off here it took me approx 2.5 hrs to complete with a cup of tea half way

If anyone wants to change and use this in F.A.Q for everyones benefit their more than welcome.

[Brash]

Hi iluvm

Thanks for that, once again this was a job I'd not of done without the wealth of knowledge on this forum.Any comments like these are gratfully recieved and will hopefully go to help others on here.The next job will be an oil&filter change on my 2004 1.9 TDI 130ps.I'm hopeing to get pics this time and post on here. I've also done a quick search on here and decided to go for the Ford SD Special oil and genuine filter and do it myself.That way I know what oils going in , and not giving it to a backstreet garage to mess up.

Once again thanks everyone on this site who've contributed in saving me

[Smilge]

Nice one Brash and thanks for the info.