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Posted

Hi. I would greatly appreciate any help you can give. I have a Ford Galaxy 1.9tdi 115hp. O1.

About a month ago the fuel indicator started beeping to let me know I was low on Diesel But I wasn't. Since then it hasn't stopped. I have got a software programme ran and it shows no instrument faults at all. I have been running tests to try and find the problem. When my tank is half full to full it doesn't beep. As soon as it reaches half or lower it starts to beep quite regularly while driving especially when I apply brakes. I have been told that maybe it is the fuel tank sensor.

The other think that happened about two weeks ago was that the Speedometer stopped working. It works sometimes and goes up and down the clock but when it's not working it doesn't clock up any milage either. Sometimes it is accurate and does show the correct spped been driven but then for no apparent reason it can go back to zero again.

I have been told that this is maybe the sensor beside the gear box.

I have also been told it could be under the dash but nothing showed up on the scan done at the auto electrician.

All of these are quite expensive to repair. The fuel tank part is

Posted
Hi. I would greatly appreciate any help you can give. I have a Ford Galaxy 1.9tdi 115hp. O1.

About a month ago the fuel indicator started beeping to let me know I was low on Diesel But I wasn't. Since then it hasn't stopped. I have got a software programme ran and it shows no instrument faults at all. I have been running tests to try and find the problem. When my tank is half full to full it doesn't beep. As soon as it reaches half or lower it starts to beep quite regularly while driving especially when I apply brakes. I have been told that maybe it is the fuel tank sensor.

The other think that happened about two weeks ago was that the Speedometer stopped working. It works sometimes and goes up and down the clock but when it's not working it doesn't clock up any milage either. Sometimes it is accurate and does show the correct spped been driven but then for no apparent reason it can go back to zero again.

I have been told that this is maybe the sensor beside the gear box.

I have also been told it could be under the dash but nothing showed up on the scan done at the auto electrician.

All of these are quite expensive to repair. The fuel tank part is

Posted

Hi marie and welcome to the forum

 

sounds like some sticking needles its possible that a transistor is on its way out. Try unscrewing the instrument panel and do a wiggle test for loose wires just in case its something basic.

 

you can get a dash from a vw sharan or seat alhambra 1.9 tdi when you unscrew dash about 8 screws remember to get part number off unit should read 7M3 920 900DX for 160 mph speedo or 7M3 920 900CX for 140mph speedo scrappys cost about 30 new around 130

Posted

Thank you for your reply. Did replacing the cluster mean removing the dash. I am living in Co Clare Ireland and I'm being told to remove the dash is a HUGE complicated job and it would need then to be sent to Dublin to be repared.

Thank you,

Marie

Posted (edited)

Hi Marie if the cluster is at fault i can assure you it does not involve removing the dash or even the steering wheel as is sometimes mentioned, there are also only 2 plugs to unplug on the rear , clusters new are expensive so don't waste your money simply get a second hand one from Ebay as mentioned making sure you have the correct set ie diesel and not petrol and make sure the MPH range is the same etc. They can be removed in under 15mins honest... :)

p.s before paying any money out take the clocks out and check plugs are secure on rear first

Edited by mikej
Posted
Hi Marie, as above I can also assure you its a ten minute job. Any garage that's telling you otherwise needs to treated with caution! They could of course be thinking its an earth fault problem - there are tens of earth points around the car and a number are behind the dash however its highly unlikely that any of them would "fail" and require any attention - far more likely the cluster is defective and I would look at replacing that before doing anything else!!!
Posted
Hi Marie if the cluster is at fault i can assure you it does not involve removing the dash or even the steering wheel as is sometimes mentioned, there are also only 2 plugs to unplug on the rear , clusters new are expensive so don't waste your money simply get a second hand one from Ebay as mentioned making sure you have the correct set ie diesel and not petrol and make sure the MPH range is the same etc. They can be removed in under 15mins honest... :)

p.s before paying any money out take the clocks out and check plugs are secure on rear first

 

Hi,

Thank you for your reply. I have looked this morning and the clocks appear to be a sealed unit. The speedo is the 140 MPH one. How do you get at the clocks???

Posted
Hi Marie if the cluster is at fault i can assure you it does not involve removing the dash or even the steering wheel as is sometimes mentioned, there are also only 2 plugs to unplug on the rear , clusters new are expensive so don't waste your money simply get a second hand one from Ebay as mentioned making sure you have the correct set ie diesel and not petrol and make sure the MPH range is the same etc. They can be removed in under 15mins honest... :)

p.s before paying any money out take the clocks out and check plugs are secure on rear first

 

 

hi ive got a galaxy 01 plate with the same problem but when i put on the side lights the speedo and petrol needle starts to work turn the lights off the speedo and petrol needle is playing up again !!

Posted (edited)

Hi sorry for the late reply as already illustrated remove the shroud from the steering wheel including the soft leather like cover which simply clips in and you should be able to see two tabs with self tapping screws in them these are the clocks securing tabs and the only screws that hold in the clocks, they may be a bit fiddly first time round but they aren't that bad to get out also very important you must release the steering wheel adjustment first and pull the wheel all the way out and lock it in it's lowest position otherwise the clocks won't fit past the wheel. Once these screws have been removed use a flat screw driver or like me a knife and place between the top of the clocks and dash and gently lever the clocks out from the( TOP ONLY ) don't try to remove from the bottom first as they will not come out like that, once they are loose simply manoeuver between the dash and wheel note the two leads/plugs on rear are quite long although from memory i think you will have to remove before taking past wheel, am sure you will see for yourself once they are loose also they may appear to be tight in there but they will just pop out honest, done it loads of times...... :)

hope this helps you out and saves you from the dreaded Frauds........

One last thing i forgot to mention was when removing the plugs on the rear of clocks you will see what looks like a hinge on the plug, as you lift the hinge the plug is forced out at the same time don't be too heavy handed..

Edited by mikej
Posted
Thank you so much. I wish I had tried this way weeks ago rather than going from mechanic to mechanic and been told different things. Maybe it's still a women thing but I do know quite a bit about cars and whats under the bonnet but this problem did catch me out.
Posted

"Maybe it's still a women thing but I do know quite a bit about cars and whats under the bonnet but this problem did catch me out".

 

Marie

That's where you are going wrong the Speedo is not under the bonnet ;)

Hope you sorted it out

Gaz

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Aarrgghh! Mine's just started to do this this morning!

 

At first it was slightly amusing, but now it's simply boring.

 

Fuel light coming on and off every few seconds, and the speedo sometimes not working.

 

Average consumption reading about the 6 MPG mark.

 

Dull, dull, dull...

 

Looks like time to get a replacement instrument cluster.

 

Taliska

Posted

Just done the easy thing first - disconnected the battery for 30 seconds, and then reattached it...

 

The battery's reading 12.5 volts so I guess that's still okay.

 

Will go on a drive to see if it's working - possibly by the petrol station as it was showing 547 miles on the tank.

 

Taliska

Posted

Just done the easy thing first - disconnected the battery for 30 seconds, and then reattached it...

 

The battery's reading 12.5 volts so I guess that's still okay.

 

Will go on a drive to see if it's working - possibly by the petrol station as it was showing 547 miles on the tank.

 

Taliska

 

Well that didn't help, but filling it up with fuel shut it up nicely.

 

Now to follow the instrument removal cluster instructions...

 

Taliska

  • 1 month later...
  • 10 months later...
Posted
i have the same problem on my 2001 ford galaxy 2.3 zetec its getting annoying the speedo just drops. has anyone fixed the problem would be great if someone could report back..cheers
Posted

I have the same problem as well, exact same symptoms as OP. Assuming we all have a common problem, my experience may help.

 

I have:

1) Checked the wiring out (using information from TIS)to the vehicle speed sensor on the gearbox: all OK

2) Taken the instrument clocks out and examined the circuit board: all OK

3) Checked the intrument panel with VAGCOM..no fault codes

4) Checked all the earths around the 2 connnectors on the instrument panel: all OK

5) Needless to say, disconnecting the battery does not cure the problem.

6) VAGCOM shows the resistance of the fuel sendor, and this resistance changes as the car moves, meaning that the `dancing' fuel guage is reporting what the sender is saying...in other words I do not think there is a fault with the fuel level sender per-se.

 

SO I don't think it an instrument clock problem, nor a fuel sender problem, nor an earth problem. Only thing left is the vehicle speed sensor itself, which is underneath the gear-change linkage on the gearbox. I have unbolted the sensor but can't get it out. Does it unscrew or just pull out? Does anyone know?

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
i replaced the speed sensor on the gear box and tried a replacement cluster, still doing the same thing. engine management light will come on and speedo will not work, still beeps if fuel tank is less than half.. no clue whats wrong! its taking the mick.
  • 5 months later...
Posted (edited)

Hi, Has anyone solved this problem? I have checked alot of earths, changed the clocks, changed the VSS and it is still not playing the game!!! Would the service function cause this problem if you haven't had it switched off? I know that is clutching at straws... Its a 2.3 Zetec giving me grief.

 

Thanks

Edited by Daz7827
Posted

All,

 

I seem to have fixed the problem on my Galaxy, it was the Blue connection at the back of the clocks there was alot of corrosion on the connections. I hope this helps

 

Regards

 

Daz

  • 1 year later...
Posted

oh no.

my 2002 19tdi has just started doing the same thing.

this is an old post,so if someone has solved it can they post on what the problem was?

daz7827 has posted how he solved it, but did this work for all? or just daz?

this beeping noise is getting to me now.

was told its the vehicle speed sensor, and that also came up on a scan.

so, help please, as I don't know what to think after reading all them posts. lol.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Sorry to bring an old post back to life but I have the same fault and can't seem to fix it.  Mine is slightly different in the sometimes the speedo will work and sometimes it flicks up and down for all it is worth, from 0mph to 120mph and back again like it is on something.

 

I have checked the G2 earth group and that was clean but I took it apart, sanded it and rebuilt to be sure.  Just to check I got the right one it is below the coolant bottle on the face of the nearside turret and it has 3 brown wires and a 10mm bolt.

 

I have checked the 2 plugs at the back of the clocks and they are fine with no corrosion at all.  WD40 and reseated.

 

Belled the plug from the VSS sensor and the earth is good, the live goes to F34 (I think it was F34) so I know it has a good power supply.

 

I can't seem to get a connection from pin 2 (signal) to the clocks but I will check again tomorrow.  Does anyone know if it is the blue or the green plug the VSS signals goes to the dash on and what pin number?

 

Thanks

Posted

Pin 2 of the VSS is fine and goes to Pin 28 of the Blue plug behind the clocks.  

 

I have a friend with a portable Fluke scope that is coming over at the weekend to connect it to pin 28 while I drive it round the block.  He believes we should just see a square wave that increases in frequency as the speed increases.  Is he right?

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