Ginettamad Posted August 5, 2009 Report Posted August 5, 2009 (edited) I have a 99 TDi 110 which had a new g/box a few years back by previous owner. I now have the OFF side ABS ring on the CV joint spinning loose so I ordered a new CV and got an Pre 2000 one only to find mine has the later smaller splined drive shafts fitted possibly due to the box change? So I have now ordered a post 2000 CV joint with 36 slines rather than 27. I asked a local garage to fit the parts as I'm pushed for time and would struggle to get the hub off. On removing the drive shaft the garage has found the intermediate support bearing has come apart holding drive shaft. Mine has an alloy carrier with the bearing inside it. Apparently there are numerous types of bearings and carriers so god knows what my bill will come to?So is this a very expensive FORD / VW only part which is difficult to remove and replace from the drive shaft? Just had some really bad news as the mechanic who is the garage boss has now gone on holiday for two weeks leaving my car in bits outside!!!!!!!!He never mentioned that at all so I'm seriously peed off now as its my daily commuter car for work and disabled? Arrrrh Could I fit the parts back on if their apprentice gets them? CV joint, New bearing and drive shaft? Harvey Edited August 5, 2009 by Ginettamad Quote
eddies Posted August 5, 2009 Report Posted August 5, 2009 You should be able to pick up a complete drive shaft assy from a breakers yard for this car.If it is like my automatic the inner CV is held on to a drive flange beside the diff housing by 6 multipoint bolts. The mid-shaft bearing is bolted to teh Alloy support housing by two M8 nuts / bolts. and the outer CV is held into the disc / hub assy by a large bolt in the centre of the hub.You will need to pop the bottom ball joint out to swing the suspension out of the way to get the outer CV from teh hun abd to pull the shaft assy out of the car.Alos I suggest you gte new splined head bolts to re-attache the inner CV as these WILL be a nightmare if the spline socket slips when installing them ! Quote
Ginettamad Posted August 5, 2009 Author Report Posted August 5, 2009 You should be able to pick up a complete drive shaft assy from a breakers yard for this car.If it is like my automatic the inner CV is held on to a drive flange beside the diff housing by 6 multipoint bolts. The mid-shaft bearing is bolted to teh Alloy support housing by two M8 nuts / bolts. and the outer CV is held into the disc / hub assy by a large bolt in the centre of the hub.You will need to pop the bottom ball joint out to swing the suspension out of the way to get the outer CV from teh hun abd to pull the shaft assy out of the car.Alos I suggest you gte new splined head bolts to re-attache the inner CV as these WILL be a nightmare if the spline socket slips when installing them ! Thanks ,I'm going for new parts as it seems the drive shaft parts dont last long anyway on Gals judging past posts. My shaft is already off the car but in the mechanics garage so I wanted to know if I could easily change the bearing as knowing my luck most parts will be seized solid?Harvey Quote
Willie Krashitt Posted August 6, 2009 Report Posted August 6, 2009 Hi, The not so good news is that when you get the new intermediate shafts, the ones that use the alloy housing have been superceded by a later design and the housing is now surplus to requirements. This means that you will also need a new engine block to intermediate shaft bracket. Expect a bill around Quote
Ginettamad Posted August 10, 2009 Author Report Posted August 10, 2009 Hi, The not so good news is that when you get the new intermediate shafts, the ones that use the alloy housing have been superceded by a later design and the housing is now surplus to requirements. This means that you will also need a new engine block to intermediate shaft bracket. Expect a bill around Quote
Ginettamad Posted August 10, 2009 Author Report Posted August 10, 2009 Thanks for the info which sounded alarming however I have rung the garage and they claim to have a new bearing on its own for around Quote
Ginettamad Posted August 18, 2009 Author Report Posted August 18, 2009 Thanks for the info which sounded alarming however I have rung the garage and they claim to have a new bearing on its own for around Quote
seatkid Posted August 18, 2009 Report Posted August 18, 2009 (edited) Car back with bearing replaced which cost Edited August 18, 2009 by seatkid Quote
Ginettamad Posted August 18, 2009 Author Report Posted August 18, 2009 Thanks I checked the sills after reading about others on this site but as you say its proving the bugg--s did it.The metal has rusted now and had some rust before but I had just stripped and re painted both sill flanges to tidy the surface rust so I know they were good beforehand. One side is not going to hammer back as bent too much and will snap due to metal fatigue and rust weakening. have a look at this picture of the worst side.Apparently its up to the garage to prove they did not do it but in my case the boss was on holiday so not looking forward to approaching him when he gets back with my goods and services letter and photos.Harvey Quote
jkspoff Posted August 18, 2009 Report Posted August 18, 2009 Looks a mess, thought mine were bad ! Buy some sill protectors from VW and patch up yours the best you can with rust proofing, then cover them over with the plastic side panels. Buying mine from VW soon when I have some spare cash. ( Quote
seatkid Posted August 18, 2009 Report Posted August 18, 2009 TBH I'd be quite concerned about the floor pan rust I can see. You should peel back the underseal and clean the rust with a wire brush, then treat/prime it, spray with some paint to seal it and finally repray some stonechip underseal (screwfix does it in a can). Also it looks as if there has been prior damage to the sill hence the rust although there is a shiny bit that shows that they did some damage. Case could be weak. I'd just get the hammer and pliers out, and wire brush etc etc. Its under the car so you dont have to be an artist...... Quote
Ginettamad Posted August 19, 2009 Author Report Posted August 19, 2009 The picture makes the rust look worse but both sill flanges had just been cleaned up and painted black but that has been cracked off and the damage further in was done too. As the flanges have some rust I think bending them back will snap the metal off.The under seal cracks showing rust are not serious and the box sections have been waxoiled now in and out. May take off some of the damaged undseal seal after I have shown the garage boss tomorrow.At the end off the day the car was not damaged before it left it with them but I'll see what they have to say>Harvey Quote
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