Yes Its Air Con Againnnnnnnnnnnn

[gizmo.john]

air con works fine every morning for about 10 miles then just decides it's had enough. had the same problem before i had it serviced checked the relay and it is fine but there is no power to the compressor when the engine is at normal temp

[seatkid]

:blink: Here we go againnnnnnnnnnnn....what model, what year, what engine, dual/single/triple???????

 

 

Possiblities

 

 

1) Radiator fan not working (it should work at half speed when a/c is turned on) - a/c condensor overheats and pressure s/w cuts out

 

2) Slightly overfilled with gas - a/c condensor overheats and pressure s/w cuts out

 

3) Deicing switch cutting out - (Ford 2.0 and 2.3L engines only) - insufficient airflow due to blocked pollen filter and/or blocked drain tubes from evaporator

[gizmo.john]

:blink: Here we go againnnnnnnnnnnn....what model, what year, what engine, dual/single/triple???????

 

 

Possiblities

 

 

1) Radiator fan not working (it should work at half speed when a/c is turned on) - a/c condensor overheats and pressure s/w cuts out

 

2) Slightly overfilled with gas - a/c condensor overheats and pressure s/w cuts out

 

3) Deicing switch cutting out - (Ford 2.0 and 2.3L engines only) - insufficient airflow due to blocked pollen filter and/or blocked drain tubes from evaporator

sorry forgot to list mark 1: year 1999: 2.3: single:ok here we go have tried fans ok a/c condensor ok and pressure s/w cuts out ok gas ok as had it checked again by a different company who again didn't charge me for regassing it and it still will not work

Edited June 26, 2009 by gizmo.john

[seatkid]

sorry forgot to list mark 1: year 1999: 2.3: single:ok here we go have tried fans ok a/c condensor ok and pressure s/w cuts out ok gas ok as had it checked again by a different company who again didn't charge me for regassing it and it still will not work

 

Well thats ok.. ;) :blink: ;) ...erm your concise writing style is rather difficult to follow..... :lol:

 

By fan I meant the large engine radiator fan....not the ventilation fans.

 

If you mean to say that the pressure sw is cutting out, then its either....

 

the condensor overheating due to a faulty ENGINE fan or the quantity of gas in the system is too much or......

 

the pressure switch is faulty.....

 

or contamination is blocking the expansion valve(this is a remote possibilty only, if youve had major work done or your compressor is breaking up in which case it'll soon get rapidly worse or the compressor will seize up)

[BigDave1972]

Stupid question but apart from replacing the pressure switch - is there an easy way to test if it is faulty?

[seatkid]

Stupid question but apart from replacing the pressure switch - is there an easy way to test if it is faulty?

Without specialist test equipment? No.

[gizmo.john]

Stupid question but apart from replacing the pressure switch - is there an easy way to test if it is faulty?

Without specialist test equipment? No.

when my aircon stops working the wires to the switch are dead but when aircon works they are live. had car ticking over for half hour and engine fans were working fine

Edited June 26, 2009 by gizmo.john

[BigDave1972]

when my aircon stops working the wires to the switch are dead but when aircon works they are live. had car ticking over for half hour and engine fans were working fine

 

Seems like the pressure switch is turning your A/C on and off on command. Have you had the low and high pressure tested on a hot day?

[gizmo.john]

Seems like the pressure switch is turning your A/C on and off on command. Have you had the low and high pressure tested on a hot day?

the last time i had aircon regassed the chap changed the pressure switch it was a hot day

[seatkid]

when my aircon stops working the wires to the switch are dead but when aircon works they are live. had car ticking over for half hour and engine fans were working fine

If you mean all wires to the pressure sw are dead then its not the pressure switch thats faulty- it will most likely be the deicing switch that is tripping. This is located on the evaporator (extremely difficult to get to). The deicing switch operates when the evaporator (located in dash with heater matrix) gets too cold, usually because ice has built up on it. It is not unknown for the deicing switch to be faulty, but the usual cause for icing is blocked water drain tubes (subject of a Ford TIS bulletin) combined with low air flow -usually a blocked pollen filter. It is possible to short out the deicing switch - refer to the TIS CD electrical diagrams.

 

 

A simple test would be to put the a/c fan speed to full and see if the a/c runs longer before it stopped.

 

If you havent changed the pollen filter within the last 30,000 miles, I would consider that first. And then crawl under the car engine bulkhead, locate the 2 (IIRC) drain tubes, remove the valves if they are still there and use a small screwdriver to clean the tubes and release any water still in the evaporator.

Edited June 26, 2009 by seatkid

[gizmo.john]

when my aircon stops working the wires to the switch are dead but when aircon works they are live. had car ticking over for half hour and engine fans were working fine

If you mean all wires to the pressure sw are dead then its not the pressure switch thats faulty- it will most likely be the deicing switch that is tripping. This is located on the evaporator (extremely difficult to get to). The deicing switch operates when the evaporator (located in dash with heater matrix) gets too cold, usually because ice has built up on it. It is not unknown for the deicing switch to be faulty, but the usual cause for icing is blocked water drain tubes (subject of a Ford TIS bulletin) combined with low air flow -usually a blocked pollen filter. It is possible to short out the deicing switch - refer to the TIS CD electrical diagrams.

 

 

A simple test would be to put the a/c fan speed to full and see if the a/c runs longer before it stopped.

 

If you havent changed the pollen filter within the last 30,000 miles, I would consider that first. And then crawl under the car engine bulkhead, locate the 2 (IIRC) drain tubes, remove the valves if they are still there and use a small screwdriver to clean the tubes and release any water still in the evaporator.

thanks will try that tomorrow