Lack Of Power

[vivo]

Ok my first post here, galaxy 2004 1.9 tdi 115 BHP auto, the problem I have is this, loss of power when accelerating can happen at any speed or revs [limp mode]have had a few garages have a test run the answers differ somewhat, over-boost, under-boost?

Can someone confirm that if the power to the MAF sensor is disconnected that if it then runs better that the MAF is at fault?

:P

Edited April 29, 2009 by vivo

[gregers]

do a search on here for maf and you will find a lot of info on the subject.

[vivo]

do a search on here for maf and you will find a lot of info on the subject.

 

Done that but it dont say if it is at fault or not could be the T-MAP or EGR So I need to clarify the situation :P

[Keithb]

Welcome to the club! (The tdi loss of power club that is)

 

There's loads on here about Limp home mode or TDi loss of power. Your problem is likely to be in the vacuum hoses. I've had the cat changed - which improved the problem, MAF - no change, Turbo control solenoid - no change, vacuum pipes blown through and checked for leaks. oh and the little paper filter near the air filter - that can get clogged and cause your problem.

 

There doesn't seem to be 1 cure but anything a little off spec can start the problem.

 

I've had the problem on and off for 60k miles now - it started at 40k miles. For me it happens under load - towing, full car and generally uphill. My next approach is to change the n75 valve.

 

Keith

2003 Galaxy tdi115 auto

[vivo]

Welcome to the club! (The tdi loss of power club that is)

 

There's loads on here about Limp home mode or TDi loss of power. Your problem is likely to be in the vacuum hoses. I've had the cat changed - which improved the problem, MAF - no change, Turbo control solenoid - no change, vacuum pipes blown through and checked for leaks. oh and the little paper filter near the air filter - that can get clogged and cause your problem.

 

There doesn't seem to be 1 cure but anything a little off spec can start the problem.

 

I've had the problem on and off for 60k miles now - it started at 40k miles. For me it happens under load - towing, full car and generally uphill. My next approach is to change the n75 valve.

 

Keith

2003 Galaxy tdi115 auto

Thanks for the welcome....Keith....

My mate is a retired Jag Technician he has had a look at it says "it could be anything and I mean anything" with all the sensors on cars today it is bloody "Ridiculous" just complicates matters to the extent of only Albert Einstein being able to grasp some sort of understanding, not even main dealers have the ability to pinpoint a fault it just goes on and on just like some of the threads we have read here and elswhere sometimes a problem is solved but most times they are not?

[Scorpiorefugee]

I like to keep things simple but MAFs can do some strange things.

 

As far as I can see, if you disconnect it the only thing that may help is that, if the results are consistent, hen the MAF is probably faulty.

 

When mine went on the 110 AFN, disconnecting it made little difference but when I fitted it to my 115 Ghia it ran like a Ford Popular and disconnecting it actually improve things.

 

Since then, I have had some codes suggesting a faulty MAF but it is going so well I am going to leave it.

 

In your case, it may be worth trying one just to prove a point. I'd behappy to lend you mine if you lived in North Worcs.

[seatkid]

In your case, it may be worth trying one just to prove a point. I'd behappy to lend you mine if you lived in North Worcs.

Beware of strange old men bearing gifts..... :)

[vivo]

I like to keep things simple but MAFs can do some strange things.

 

As far as I can see, if you disconnect it the only thing that may help is that, if the results are consistent, hen the MAF is probably faulty.

 

When mine went on the 110 AFN, disconnecting it made little difference but when I fitted it to my 115 Ghia it ran like a Ford Popular and disconnecting it actually improve things.

 

Since then, I have had some codes suggesting a faulty MAF but it is going so well I am going to leave it.

 

In your case, it may be worth trying one just to prove a point. I'd behappy to lend you mine if you lived in North Worcs.

Thanks for the offer :lol: .

My mate said he will sort it out he is very methodical and I am sure he will achieve the finished article PS this is my 5th Galaxy but never had a problem before>>>>>>>>>>> :lol:

[srafferty]

Any further on?

 

I think part of the problem is that when peops get their motor sorted they forget to return to the forums and update us with the solutions! :angry2:

 

My P1556 persists with similar symptoms. I've replaced TMap, MAF, brake light switch, EGR. I've cleaned out the cooler flushed the engine and filled with 505.01 fully synthetic + new filter. I'm going to replace the fuel filter, just for the sake of if, but I'm certain this will make no difference.

 

My mechanic told me he had checked vacuum hoses but I'll check them again. I'm also going to remove the cat at the W/E and check that. I checked the camshaft but to my inexperienced eyes at least it seemed like new.

 

1. Can any-one thee me which hoses I need to check

 

2. Can anyone tell me if there is a way to check if N&% is OK or not?

 

Thanks

[Keithb]

Srafferty, since the early days of my fault I've been repeatedly told on these forums to check the vacuum hoses. I've asked several garages to do this and one even claims to have taken them all off and blown compressed air through them. Like you, I've changed the likely parts. The only item not to be changed is the N75 valve. It's a pig to get too and I put it off till last. The other week I decided to have a look at the beasty. Removed windscreen wipers, grill, upper bulkhead thingy and removed the aluminium heatshield. The valve is held on by 2 bolts. 3 vacuum hoses connect to it and I replaced all three. The valve didn't look serviceable so I thought I'd leave it for the moment. 1 hose goes to the small paper filter near the air filter, another goes to the turbo diaphragm and the other to the top of the engine (I guess that's the vacuum feed). Anyway the one to the top of the engine was a little loose on it's connector so maybe that was a weak spot.

 

I also used vag-com to change the egr value to the limit. Less muck to go into the inlet system.

 

Since then it seems to be pulling better and hasn't gone into limp mode. This is no guarantee as it usually fails when fully loaded or pulling a caravan.

I'm off to the French Alps this weekend for a week so I'll see how it behaves on some big hills (and having an 8 hour blast on the autoroute).

 

I've attached a piccy and you'll see my replacement blue hoses with the offending one arrowed.

 

Best of luck!

Keith

[srafferty]

Keith - thank you for that. You're in a similar spot as myself. If you come up with anything let me know. I'll do likewise.

 

Thanks again. :angry2:

[vivo]

Any further on?

 

I think part of the problem is that when peops get their motor sorted they forget to return to the forums and update us with the solutions! ;)

 

My P1556 persists with similar symptoms. I've replaced TMap, MAF, brake light switch, EGR. I've cleaned out the cooler flushed the engine and filled with 505.01 fully synthetic + new filter. I'm going to replace the fuel filter, just for the sake of if, but I'm certain this will make no difference.

 

My mechanic told me he had checked vacuum hoses but I'll check them again. I'm also going to remove the cat at the W/E and check that. I checked the camshaft but to my inexperienced eyes at least it seemed like new.

 

1. Can any-one thee me which hoses I need to check

 

2. Can anyone tell me if there is a way to check if N&% is OK or not?

 

Thanks

 

Nope I aint forgoten it just aint sorted yet :(

[nogdog]

I'm not sure if this will help anyone, but I have not seen any mention in other threads so here goes...

 

The new guy next door to me saw me working on my galaxy the other day and asked, "know much about the bloody things then?" I claimed no major knowledge just general spannering and that the Galaxy afforded plenty of practice! Anyhow his complaint on his identical Mk1 1.9TDi was...loss of power. It had been the same for 6 months and nothing had fixed it.

 

I plugged into it and the fault codes read off as a mechanical malfunction of the fuel shutoff valve N109. I cleared the codes and sent him for a spin. When he got back (a much happier man) I re-scanned the car and nothing had returned. The car apparently worked OK after that. That was until the end of Tuesday when it was just the same again. This time I removed the valve and gave it a good clean and a new O-ring. So far it has apparently been behaving itself. With luck it will, my new best friend is starting to make a list of problems. :wacko:

 

It strikes me as odd though that such an error code would cause the car to go into limp home mode without throwing a check engine light. But clearly clearing the error code brought it out of limp home. Well until the valve got stuck again.

 

Anyhow, I just thought I would mention it.

Edited May 28, 2009 by nogdog

[vivo]

Ok guys it is now sorted.

The problem came in two sections/parts 1> MAF sensor 2> T-MAP sensor.

Changed the pair of them. BUT make sure that the memory is cleared of all faults otherwise it wont solve the problem [Proven] by my mate> after fitting the aforesaid we took it for a run no difference> returned to his workshop and cleared the faults. Took it for a 50mile run under load uphill downhill every which way and hey presto running like a dream.

Next week I am going to get Innotec turbo cleaner to get it the turbo nice and clean. :(

[Rayh]

Ok my first post here, galaxy 2004 1.9 tdi 115 BHP auto, the problem I have is this, loss of power when accelerating can happen at any speed or revs [limp mode]have had a few garages have a test run the answers differ somewhat, over-boost, under-boost?

Can someone confirm that if the power to the MAF sensor is disconnected that if it then runs better that the MAF is at fault?

:huh:

Hi normally if power loss at around 2500 rpm check and clean T-MAP sensor with brake cleaner, this will take no more than 30 mins . If your vehicle runs better with MAF dissconected then Maf fault , as when no MAF connected the mean settings in ECU are higher than faulty MAF settings.

Always try to swop bits if poss as keeps cost down Euro car parts are very good for the bits, both items would be

[wicpp]

I have Ford Galaxy, 1.9 TDI, Diesel, Automatic, 2000, MK1. Now my Ford Galaxy takes too much time to go from 60 MPH to 70MPH actually when I go up hill it makes just lost of noise and does not increase speed or change gears. If I am going up hill I takes lot of time even to go from 40 to 50. I have read these forms and found that common faults are MAF sensor or T-MAP sensor. I have unplugged the MAF sensor cables and done a test drive but no difference in derive, I mean its acceleration is still poor with MAF detached. I do not know how to test T-MAP sensor? MAF sensor is worth Edited July 3, 2009 by wicpp

[wicpp]

I have Ford Galaxy, 1.9 TDI, Diesel, Automatic, 2000, MK1. Now my Ford Galaxy takes too much time to go from 60 MPH to 70MPH actually when I go up hill it makes just lost of noise and does not increase speed or change gears. If I am going up hill I takes lot of time even to go from 40 to 50. I have read these forms and found that common faults are MAF sensor or T-MAP sensor. I have unplugged the MAF sensor cables and done a test drive but no difference in derive, I mean its acceleration is still poor with MAF detached. I do not know how to test T-MAP sensor? MAF sensor is worth

[wicpp]

I have Ford Galaxy, 1.9 TDI, Diesel, Automatic, 2000, MK1. Now my Ford Galaxy takes too much time to go from 60 MPH to 70MPH actually when I go up hill it makes just lost of noise and does not increase speed or change gears. If I am going up hill I takes lot of time even to go from 40 to 50. I have read these forms and found that common faults are MAF sensor or T-MAP sensor. I have unplugged the MAF sensor cables and done a test drive but no difference in derive, I mean its acceleration is still poor with MAF detached. I do not know how to test T-MAP sensor? MAF sensor is worth

[Gerty Gal]

Ok my first post here, galaxy 2004 1.9 tdi 115 BHP auto, the problem I have is this, loss of power when accelerating can happen at any speed or revs [limp mode]have had a few garages have a test run the answers differ somewhat, over-boost, under-boost?

Can someone confirm that if the power to the MAF sensor is disconnected that if it then runs better that the MAF is at fault?

;)

Hi ya sounds like I've had the same problem I changed my air flow meter, I first disconnected it and it ran better bought a new one and it worked for a couple of weeks , today I have cleaned my absolute pressure sensor and my air flow sensor with hot soapy water and then blew dry it ,erase your codes ,now runs like new and no fault codes are coming up on my scanner,best of luck.

oh and change the oil an filters every 5000 to 6000 miles