pat19581 Posted April 18, 2009 Report Posted April 18, 2009 tried to add this to my other post, found this pipe that was broken would this be why the car is not ideling properly its on the left hand side near the maf Quote
sepulchrave Posted April 18, 2009 Report Posted April 18, 2009 Yes. That constitutes an air leak! Quote
pat19581 Posted April 18, 2009 Author Report Posted April 18, 2009 Yes. That constitutes an air leak!would that give a error code for the maf then Quote
pat19581 Posted April 19, 2009 Author Report Posted April 19, 2009 ok i put a new bit of pipe on but still not ideling and still get 00553 mass air flow sensor (g70)28.00 short to b+ Quote
Mirez Posted April 19, 2009 Report Posted April 19, 2009 ok i put a new bit of pipe on but still not ideling and still get 00553 mass air flow sensor (g70)28.00 short to b+ Short to B+ means its seeing 12V when expecting a signal so you either have a wiring fault or the MAF itself is defective. Try leaving it unplugged, resetting the code and then starting the car. If the fault comes back again immediately then the wiring is defective or damaged. If not then you have a faulty MAF. Quote
pat19581 Posted April 19, 2009 Author Report Posted April 19, 2009 ok i put a new bit of pipe on but still not ideling and still get 00553 mass air flow sensor (g70)28.00 short to b+ Short to B+ means its seeing 12V when expecting a signal so you either have a wiring fault or the MAF itself is defective. Try leaving it unplugged, resetting the code and then starting the car. If the fault comes back again immediately then the wiring is defective or damaged. If not then you have a faulty MAF.ok ill give that a go there was one thing to get it to idle i pull the throttle cable clip out and moved the cable a bit put the clip back in so it was idleling beter took it for a long run when i stoped the car was idleing verry high so i ajusted the cable down a bit tikeover beter then it goes back to how it was ill give that a go with unpluging the maf next Quote
mk2vr6 Posted April 19, 2009 Report Posted April 19, 2009 ok i'll give that a go there was one thing to get it to idle i pull the throttle cable clip out and moved the cable a bit put the clip back in so it was idleling better took it for a long run when i stopped the car was idleing very high so i adjusted the cable down a bit tickeover better then it goes back to how it was i'll give that a go with unpluging the maf next the idle speed is control by the throttle postion sensor/motor there is no ISV or other means of setting the idle speed on the VR6, adjusting the cable tension yourself will totally screw up the idle speed! the valve you show in your picture is a flame trap valve and is prone to breaking up as is the hose its mounted in! check it for splits in the convolutions in it and in the main air hose to the throttle body Quote
pat19581 Posted April 19, 2009 Author Report Posted April 19, 2009 ok i'll give that a go there was one thing to get it to idle i pull the throttle cable clip out and moved the cable a bit put the clip back in so it was idleling better took it for a long run when i stopped the car was idleing very high so i adjusted the cable down a bit tickeover better then it goes back to how it was i'll give that a go with unpluging the maf next the idle speed is control by the throttle postion sensor/motor there is no ISV or other means of setting the idle speed on the VR6, adjusting the cable tension yourself will totally screw up the idle speed! the valve you show in your picture is a flame trap valve and is prone to breaking up as is the hose its mounted in! check it for splits in the convolutions in it and in the main air hose to the throttle bodyok thanks is it best to take it of to get a beter look at it Quote
pat19581 Posted April 23, 2009 Author Report Posted April 23, 2009 hi went to vw today they said to try cleaning the throttle body first before trying a new maf so ill give that a go are they easy to get of .now if that dont work and it might be a wiring fault is there any way i can test the plug that goas into the maf i have a circuit tester but how do i test if im geting a currant ,now today i had the temperature light start flashing hader tank ok and its not over heating the needle stays just in the norm it dont start flashing until the cars running for 20seconds this car has one problem arfter a nother Quote
mk2vr6 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Posted April 24, 2009 hi went to vw today they said to try cleaning the throttle body first before trying a new maf so ill give that a go are they easy to get of .now if that dont work and it might be a wiring fault is there any way i can test the plug that goas into the maf i have a circuit tester but how do i test if im geting a currant ,now today i had the temperature light start flashing hader tank ok and its not over heating the needle stays just in the norm it dont start flashing until the cars running for 20seconds this car has one problem arfter a nother dont take it off! if you do you'll need to replace the gasket between it and the inlet manofold! go get a can of carb cleaner, RTFM and then remove the inlet hose from the throttle body and squirt it in wipe out the throttle body with a soft cloth, trying not to disturb the butterfly to much! then with the engine running open the throttle and spray inside it! the fluid will get sucked into the engine! and depending on how much you spray in the engine may stall! as for the flashing fluid warning light? IIRC flashing is low fluid, on perminant it overheating! Quote
pat19581 Posted April 24, 2009 Author Report Posted April 24, 2009 dont take it off! if you do you'll need to replace the gasket between it and the inlet manofold! go get a can of carb cleaner, RTFM and then remove the inlet hose from the throttle body and squirt it in wipe out the throttle body with a soft cloth, trying not to disturb the butterfly to much! then with the engine running open the throttle and spray inside it! the fluid will get sucked into the engine! and depending on how much you spray in the engine may stall! as for the flashing fluid warning light? IIRC flashing is low fluid, on perminant it overheating! ok thanks for that with the light flashing the header tank has plenty of water in it do you think it might be a sencer Quote
pat19581 Posted April 24, 2009 Author Report Posted April 24, 2009 dont take it off! if you do you'll need to replace the gasket between it and the inlet manofold! go get a can of carb cleaner, RTFM and then remove the inlet hose from the throttle body and squirt it in wipe out the throttle body with a soft cloth, trying not to disturb the butterfly to much! then with the engine running open the throttle and spray inside it! the fluid will get sucked into the engine! and depending on how much you spray in the engine may stall! as for the flashing fluid warning light? IIRC flashing is low fluid, on perminant it overheating! ok thanks for that with the light flashing the header tank has plenty of water in it do you think it might be a sencer and the light starts flashing even if the car is not running but with the ignition key turnd to position 2 and the engine is cold. i have unpluged the maff cleard the codes left it unpluged but get the fault codes back so i get fault cod with or without the maf connected they come strait back the only wire i moved when i did the oil cooler was the one that runs along from right to left and is in front of the new water pipe i had to replace when doing the oil cooler the plastic bit of pipe that the water pipe goes into the oil cooler i think they plug into the allternater Quote
pat19581 Posted April 25, 2009 Author Report Posted April 25, 2009 tested the header tank sensor today and its faulty i think the oil i got in the coolent system must have gunged it up but cant get to that one to clean it. now if it gunged that one up could it have done that to some other sensors like the ones in the photo the yellow is the water sensor the blue is the temp sensor and brown the fan and if one was faulty would this give me my idling problem Quote
pat19581 Posted April 25, 2009 Author Report Posted April 25, 2009 thanks do you think its worth claening them or put new ones,s in Quote
sepulchrave Posted April 25, 2009 Report Posted April 25, 2009 Replace the blue one, it's very cheap, only about Quote
pat19581 Posted April 26, 2009 Author Report Posted April 26, 2009 (edited) Replace the blue one, it's very cheap, only about Edited April 26, 2009 by pat19581 Quote
pat19581 Posted May 1, 2009 Author Report Posted May 1, 2009 all sorted now put in a new blue sensor cleaned the other 2 they was coated with oily gunk cleand the spark plugs reset the codes and she,s running ok now Quote
DarrenG Posted August 28, 2009 Report Posted August 28, 2009 tried to add this to my other post, found this pipe that was broken would this be why the car is not ideling properly its on the left hand side near the mafDid you replace this pipe with a new one? if so do you have the part number as i only have a slight split on the elbow of this pipe and it make mne idle as if the cars got a slight hick-up when the air leak presure builds up tryed glueing etc but the pipes suffering from old age I went to ford today but could'nt find the pipe on there system only the breather valve thanks Darren Quote
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