Overheating Issue 115tdi

[rayc]

Hi guys,

 

Can anyone advise me please.

 

My galaxy suddenly overheated last year on the M20 with 7 people in.

 

RAC recovered me home and sniffed the water and said head gasket fine.

 

Car then went in and had new genuine water pump, cam belt and thermostat.

 

Made no difference.

 

I parked it for 3 months and then had another water pump fitted and cam belt.

 

Car ran great all over the winter without any issues whatsoever. Aux water pump works and the aux heater was working a treat.

 

Drove up and down the motorway fine.

 

Today after leaving it 2 weeks.

 

Drove 1/2 mile. Warning light on dash no water in header tank!

Topped up 1.5 ltrs!

Drove to Folkestone up the hill on the A20 and it started to overheat!

 

Left it all day. Drove my mates 06 plate 730D for the day B)

 

Drove it home. Didn't overheat but the water system was chattering like a goosun when I got home! (Kettling).

 

So, today I flushed the rad. However, when I started the water in the header was frothy but I assume due to air bleed etc.

 

My question is. Hot top hose, cold bottom hose. Does the rad flow bottom up or top down?

 

Can someone confirm the fitment of the thermostat is with the body in the block of the engine (I think they can only go one way).

 

Left it running for nearly an hour. No overheating but also the bottom hose wasn't hot to the touch.

 

The car has 170k miles but full service history.

 

It's the end of a long line of issues and I've put in on Ebay to sell. Hence why this problem has reared it's head again!

 

If the concensus is head (But why run all winter without issue) I'll remove from Ebay. I have replaced the water pump twice and the thermostat. I cant think what else it can be unless it was a blocked rad (which has now been cleaned out with caustic solution.

 

Would appreciate some help if you dont mind. I've spent a small fortune on the car and have truly had enough now. They are brilliant when they work but a nightmare when they go wriong. My local Ford dealer is worse than useless too.

 

Thanks for listening! :ph34r:

[jkspoff]

Sadly, I had a 2001 115PD Ghia, (not the same one I assume!) and I eventually sold it, as like you I threw money at it but never solved the exact issues that your having.

[seatkid]

I assume you have a 1.9PD 115 engine not 2.0 as in your profile!

 

Rad flows are always top -> down AFAIK. Most of the time diesels will run with stone cold bottom hose.

 

Pressure loss leads to overheating and kettling.

 

You did check/change the radiator cap?

 

Otherwise loss of coolant usually is head warped or pitted/cracked. Has it been remapped/chipped? If so then I'm inclined to think the heads cracked. Water loss through microcracks around exhaust valve.

 

I read (elsewhere) that auto variants have a water cooled EGR valve that develops micro cracks in the water jacket.

[rayc]

Hi, yes it.s the 1.9. AUY engine (which from reading forums seems to be the root of all problems).

It was a one owner company car which I bought from Somerset.

I didn't change the Rad Cap. I'll order one today and try that. My EGR was changed (funnily enough ir came from an auto) due to another issue with the car (the dreaded 1500 rpm - 1800 rpm stutter / turbo stall not over pressurising which I haven't cured yet either).

 

I'll give it a go. Otherwise I'll sell it requiring a head. I have to admit. It's totally beaten me

[rayc]

Still seems strange that it was fine over the winter months though

[sparky Paul]

Still seems strange that it was fine over the winter months though

It does seem odd.

 

I think seatkid has hit the nail on the head though. You need to eliminate all external possibilities as far as is possible, then I'm afraid the next step is to remove the head, examine the head gasket very carefully, and get the head pressure tested.

 

If it were me, I'd get the head whipped off and have a look - the answer must be somewhere in there. Good Luck!

[rayc]

If it's the head it will go as is.

 

I paid

[seatkid]

Still seems strange that it was fine over the winter months though

The nature of microcracks are that they stay sealed until the temperature of the metal reaches a critical temperature. Winter driving means the head runs considerably cooler than in the summer. You could run without a thermostat (or a low temperature thermostat or heating on full) as a temporary measure.

 

Have you tried a good radiator sealant? I suspect it would be ideal for sealing microcracks at least for the short term.

 

You should not run without antifreeze (i.e. just top up with plain water) as these engines (heads) corrode quicky without it.

[rayc]

Hi Seatkid,

I'm 90% sure it's a head gasket now. Took it out tonight and with a headwind the car started overheating within 5 miles. Heaters went cold and the header tank threw all it's coolant out.

 

Drove back after topping up and under load the engine started to get warm. Had no heaters all the way home (even at normal temp) and then the temp stabilised, then ticking over crept up to 3/4 then under load back to middle! No reason or rhyme apart from gasket or as you say a crack. Have tried K seal and tried Unpart sealer. Neither have worked.

 

I've put in on Ebay as suspect head gasket failure. See what it makes. If no good then I'll get it repaired and then sell it. Unfortunately I have to say I wont be buying another one. I know when they're good they're very good. I haven't had that pleasure. It's been a money pit and continues to be so.

[f0ster]

hello

there is a very small difference between overheating and then blowing out the water,

as opposed to blowing out the water then overheating, they can be very difficult to tell apart,

the first one could be a slightly blocked radiator, hence it working ok during winter, because of the

temperature differential between coolant and outside air,

the second could be head gasket or cracked head, pressurising the system, blowing out the water

which then causes overheating,