marcostig Posted December 24, 2008 Report Posted December 24, 2008 Just changed fuse box in engine bay as 2 largest cables were loose and had slightly melted fuse lid..now the 2nd one down is very hot, 110amp one belive goes to main box in car?.have other galaxy owners had a problem same as, any way to rectify it or just left it alone?? had car 7 months now always been hot should i be concerned or not is it common?Lid has a samll melt mark where the metal crimp is.Any advise would be nice thanks. Quote
seatkid Posted December 24, 2008 Report Posted December 24, 2008 The problem is the cable not the fuse box. The crimp is faulty and getting hot. Known and common fault. New cable required. Quote
bofus Posted December 24, 2008 Report Posted December 24, 2008 if it is the second cable down, you dont have any real options other than to cut as far down the heat damaged cable as is possible (normally 2-3" is enough). You then need to get a new Battery Junction box from your Ford/VW/Seat dealership (they are about 20-22GBP and come will a new battery cable and fuses). You also need about 3-4" of 16mm2 super flexible welding cable, 16mm2 butt crimp, and a 16-10 crimp eyelet. The costliest item needed is the crimp tool to crimp on the butt crimp and crimp eyelet. 6" of heatshrink will finish the job nicely. I had to do mine this year, about 3 hrs before I went to France on hols. If you are close to Gloucester I may be able to help Gav Quote
marcostig Posted December 25, 2008 Author Report Posted December 25, 2008 ok brother in law an electician..so no probs in sorting it out then..so 3 or 4" should be enough then?? Quote
bofus Posted December 25, 2008 Report Posted December 25, 2008 Try and remove any burnt/charred insulation, you should see when you find decent copper (bright shiny no dull/darker colour) If you can't salvage enough clean copper, pickle the end of the copper in a mild acidic solution (lemon juice?), tarnished copper doesn't conduct very well, causing a high resistance and therefore hot spots. Make sure you B-i-L uses good quality crimps and crimp tool, not the crap that Fraud/VW/Seat use. I can recommend Wilts if they have an outlet in your area. Gav Quote
sepulchrave Posted December 27, 2008 Report Posted December 27, 2008 It's generally better to crimp the terminal on to freshly fluxed copper then run solder into the whole crimped assembly as well to remove any electrical resistance remaining, this constitutes a permanent repair. Quote
marcostig Posted December 28, 2008 Author Report Posted December 28, 2008 Thanks for replys going to try to do it this week hope it will sort it out.. Quote
sparky1000 Posted December 28, 2008 Report Posted December 28, 2008 get the battery checked as well this happened to me and it was down to the battery dropping a cell so the alternator was working overtime and damaged the fuse box.New battery new fuse box ( Quote
marcostig Posted December 29, 2008 Author Report Posted December 29, 2008 batt was replaced this year..will still check though.. Quote
marcostig Posted January 3, 2009 Author Report Posted January 3, 2009 all done!! cable end was burnt/overheated, cut back 3 " new crimp butt crimp heat shrink nice and cool sorted 16 amps going through so no other probs..apart from an oil leak on power steering hose doh! getting there in the end.. Quote
sepulchrave Posted January 3, 2009 Report Posted January 3, 2009 Get the power steering hose repaired at a hydraulic engineers, it'll cost you a small fraction of a dealer replacement but you'll need to remove it first and take it to them. Quote
marcostig Posted January 4, 2009 Author Report Posted January 4, 2009 ye but its a bastard of a job to get off put it on ramps yesturday, its going to be hard to undo nut, oil everywhere,without car also,Dont want to take it to garage but im going to have to.. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.