Heater & Electric Problems

[Archie42]

Hello to everybody on this forum.

 

Before anybody slates me for repeating this thread, i have looked through the previous threads using the search facility and honestly i am none the wiser. Firstly my car, a 2.3 petrol y reg 67000 miles runs okay on a run and doesn't overheat in traffic so i assume that the water pump is working fine. The blower switch is working on all speeds but there is no heat through the vents at all. The air conditioning switch, recirculating air switch and the auxhillary heating switches are not doing anything. Obviously, the rear heater switch is not working.

 

Is it possible that a relay has caused this problem, and if so where are they located and how do i test it. I thought that a flap might be stuck open or closed due to the electrics? Please can anybody help me with this problem as going on holiday soon to a cold Blackpool.

 

Also, the rear wiper works but in jerks, stop start etc.

 

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Dave

[w811666]

Hello, do you have VAG-COM and a diagnostic cable? you should see if you have a default code...

does your climatronic blink when you turn on your engine? this means that a servomotor is failing

[Archie42]

Hi

 

Thanks for the reply. I dont know much about vag com or what it does so i wouldn't know. There is a funny shaped socket under the fuse box but i don't know what this is used for, if anything. I dont see any other indication when i turn on the ignition. I thought perhaps that the problem might be to do with a solenoid somewhere. Funnily enough, i have read on here in another thread that there is a burning smell should the air con compressor be packing up, and i now remember such a smell a while ago before this problem arose. I think i will check the compressor tomorrow to see whether this is the problem. If this was the problem and it was seized, do you think that this would damage the solenoid and stop the electrics from working or is there a more sinister problem.

 

I have had a lot of problems with the wiper arm seizing up and pin holes in the automatic gearboxs sump caused by a split noise reduction pad attached to the undertray which kept water against the sump causing rust holes to form. These are problems that i could fix but i am a little out of my depth with this one.

 

David

[w811666]

Do you have a new Galaxy or an older?

 

VAG-COM is a diagnostic software and settings for the VAG group cars, but that included the Ford Galaxy until 2007.

 

I think that if the compressor have burned, that shouldn't prevent the heating function.

[Archie42]

Hi

 

It's a y reg which i think is Aug 2001 and it is a 2.3 petrol. Is this any help?

 

Dave

[Archie42]

I think that this is still caused by a relay somewhere but don't know where they are. I have a haynes manual, but it is really for the earlier Galaxies as this was all i could get at the time to repair another problem.

[seatkid]

If you have manual a/c (i.e. rotary controls) then check the bowden cable attached to the rotary control - this often becomes detached leading to loss of heat control. If you search hard enough there is even a detailed guide how to remove the rotary contol panel.

 

Rear wiper works on a timed single wipe repeat - is this what you mean by jerks,stop/start??? :lol:

[Archie42]

No, by jerky movement i mean, it sweeps a quarter, momentarily stops then another quarter then another quarter of the rear window instead of being continuous

[Archie42]

The heating and air con problem has been fixed after reading a topic on here. I took the facia panel off which surrounds the heater rotary switch by inserting a blunt knife behind this panel and it popped out. Using a torx bit then removed the four screws holding the unit and found that there were three connectors to the back of the control box. After disconnecting these and re-connecting them, the heating now works as does the aircon and the switch to turn on the rear compartment heating. I notivce that there is no bowden cable so the air vent is obviously controlled by a servo somewhere.

 

Whils't feeling lucky, i took the side trim off the car to locate the rear wash wipe pipe and founbd that it had come apart thus stopping water reaching the tailgate glass. I pushed this back together and wrapped insulation tape around to strengthen the joint then reapplied the trim. I was able to do this without removing the rubber door trim. I also cancelled the service due message.

 

One job i still cant sort out however is programming the ignition key after changing the battery.

 

This is an excellent forum. Keep up the informative postings.

 

Dave