Fault Code 00550

[Scorpiorefugee]

The saga continues...

 

I have had the bottom pulley checked and it is OK. The garage also whisked the car off to have the timing etc. checked independantly and there were no fault codes and no timing problems. I drove the car home and connected it straight up to the VAG COM. I immediately got a code 550 but the timing seemed about right at somewhere between 0 and 4 deg adv. It had seemed fine on the way home so that was no suprise. Unfortunately, after a few revs, the timing drifted to 8 deg adv.

 

I guess I shall have to start looking for another cause. ;)

 

Since when I opened the control loop the reported timing went to 28 deg adv., I am convinced that the problem is still mechanical but am at a loss to know where to look beyond an unstable shift in the drive to the injection pump or the pump itself.

 

I shall have to monitor the thing over the next few days because it is very intermittent but should be grateful for any suggestions, constructive or otherwise.

[seatkid]

I shall have to monitor the thing over the next few days because it is very intermittent but should be grateful for any suggestions, constructive or otherwise.

How about a big hammer?

 

If I were you I would look at connectors to the injection pump and possibly the lift sensor- pull them apart - inspect - if in doubt squirt some cleaner (brake cleaner is OK).

 

05500 is Injection start control

 

00550 Injection commencement regulation. There are a number of possible reasons for this;1) Commencement of injection valve (N108) defective, this is inside the distributor pump.2) Needle lift sender (G80) defective, number 3 injectior.3) Fuel tank empty.4) Fuel supply not OK., fuel shortage.5) Air in fuel system.6) Start of delivery not OK, COI setting.The first thing to do is to set the Commencement Of Injection (COI) timing. To do this you need to get the engine temperature above 85

[Scorpiorefugee]

I like the sound of the big hammer. I've a 7lb sledge hammer and that could be very therapeutic.

 

As far as the rest, I've been over that ground once but I shall be going over it all again. Part of the problem is the intermittent nature and the fact that it seems to be evolving. At least, thanks to all of the useful input, I can begin to make some sense of it.

 

I think the first priority is to have a closer look at the control valve area again to check it's function and range. I thought I might try a golf trolley controller to give me an open loop way of controlling it. The other item under suspicion is the needle lift injector (c

[Scorpiorefugee]

OK - Another 1000 miles down and things seem to be improving. After the garage had checked my bottom pulley and certified it OK I ran it for about 10 miles monitoring boost pressure, MAF readings and injection timing. The power was all over the place with the engine note changing at random from a severe rattle to a satisfying buzz and the only thing that was really changing from 'expected' was the timing. I've since done 2 long runs and the thing seems to be settling down and, for the last 500 miles there has been no significant loss of power. :) :wacko: :huh:

 

I can only conclude that the problem is fuel related with the possibility of a problem with the needle lift injector or the injection timing control solenoid. Both at aroud

[seatkid]

I might even give it a wash. :wacko:

THAT'S the problem!........ :lol:

 

- Just a thought :huh:

Have you checked there's no air bubbles in the clear fuel feed line to the injection pump? A lot of people seem to have problems with fuel filters and air leaks (sometimes due to O rings lost during a filter change).

[Scorpiorefugee]

Spot on SK!

I do have a small bubble which comes and goes but I seem to remember (That's a daft expression isn't it. :wacko: ) that there usually is on the very rare occasions I lift the bonnet. I had intended to look at that on the basis that any air getting into the needle lift injector would upset the operation of the sensor and screw up the timing and the way the control loop behaves and the accuracy of the reported figures. Also, the control solenoid acts uses pressure to control the timing so air bubble could cause a whole range of problems. Anyway, as soon as I can get my hands on a filter I shall change it and check the plumbing.

 

Just a thought, how does one purge the air after a change?

 

And another thing, if a few air bubbles is the cause of my problem I wonder how many other similar problems have been caused by such a basic cause.

 

Back to the chase....

[Scorpiorefugee]

I might even give it a wash. :wacko:

 

I did and it worked! :lol: :) :huh: At least for the moment.

 

It might have been that I accidentally put 3l of unleaded in before topping up with another 63 of the proper stuff. Whatever, after another 400 miles it now runs as well as it ever did.

 

I give up. I don't understand anything any more. I think I shall have to go and lie down.

[fireski]

I have a 2002 115psi galaxy with a problem that appears strikingly similar! The engine can be running perfectly and then there is a sudden loss of power immediatley accompanied by the Electronic Stability Warning light coming on. This problem has progressively worsened. Have you got to the bottom of your problem yet?

[insider]

The ESP light coming on suggests a different problem to this, along with the fact that your's is a Mk2 (PD engine) and Scorpiorefugee has a Mk1.

When active, the ESP can cut engine power and brake any or all of the wheels which would certainly explain your sudden lack of power. I'd suggest getting it diagnosed with VAG-COM.

[Scorpiorefugee]

Mine does seem to have cured itself - a thousand or so miles and running well - so far! I think it must have been a dodgy Needle lift sensor which the 115 engine doesn't have (I am told)

 

Fireski, I agree with insider. Guessing is not a good idea. If you haven't got a VAG - Com, It's worth

[fireski]

Thanks for advice and learning that ESP has the authority to cut engine power! I think it is worth starting a new post mentioning the significance of the ESP light in the off chance that someone may be able to offer a few further pearls of wisdom. Otherwise I will probably have to book into local Ford dealer to get some readouts.

[Scorpiorefugee]

Just to clarify. I suggested