JohnR Posted June 19, 2008 Report Posted June 19, 2008 I've got a problem with the locking on the gal. There were actually 2 problems. First of all, the remote stopped working a long time ago, so I've been using the lock manually. A few weeks ago, the alarm led in the door stopped working. The alarm stills activates and de-activates from the passenger side ok. last week, the drivers doorlock felt much looser. This week, it would not lock. Then a day later it locked and would not unlock. On investigation, a broken torsion spring fell out of the lock mechanism. I have now replaced the lock mechanism and lock motor (from breakers) and fitted a new LED. The door now works manually again, but it will not activate/deactivate the alarm, or work the central locking. I've pulled the boot back and looked at the wiring and everything looks good in there, no kinks or signs of damage. Anyone suggest what the problem might be? I even fitted a brand new lock motor thinking the one on the second hand assy might be u/s. Still the same. At least I can manually lock the door now, but have to unlock from passenger side to prevent alarm going off. Thanks,John Quote
Audiman Posted June 19, 2008 Report Posted June 19, 2008 Back of the lock barrel, there's a paddle that actually sits in the central locking mechanism. It's quite common for the paddle to break off. Just take off the door handle by undoing a screw on the side of the door. Pull the handle out and you'll see it straight away. Test the motor mechanism by using a screwdriver in the slot (central locking mech). Should be an easy job. Quote
kmac Posted June 19, 2008 Report Posted June 19, 2008 If the paddle was broken he would not be able to lock the drivers door with the key so that can't be the problem. When the new door lock motore was fittied, the lock and un lock wires would have needed to be connected as well. Quote
JohnR Posted June 19, 2008 Author Report Posted June 19, 2008 If the paddle was broken he would not be able to lock the drivers door with the key so that can't be the problem. When the new door lock motore was fittied, the lock and un lock wires would have needed to be connected as well. Duh.... I might look thick but...Just FTR, I replaced first the lock motor when I found the broken torsion spring in the mechanism (it fell out it 2 bits), then the complete mechanism and lock motor (complete unit from breakers). The paddle is not broken off, and is correctly engaged in the mechanism, and all plugs are correctly refitted.... Reckon I'll have to chase down the squikit and ring the wires through from the door con to the plugs :-( unless there's a better suggestion?? Quote
insider Posted June 19, 2008 Report Posted June 19, 2008 Reckon I'll have to chase down the squikit and ring the wires through from the door con to the plugs :-( unless there's a better suggestion??Start with pin 33 in the door connector (red/yellow wire), this is the 12v supply.Pins 1 (black/yellow) and 2 (brown/yellow) are the lock and unlock signals. Quote
JohnR Posted June 19, 2008 Author Report Posted June 19, 2008 Excellent! That's the kinda stuff! Will check it out at the w/e Thanks. Quote
kmac Posted June 21, 2008 Report Posted June 21, 2008 (edited) How did you get on John? I just fitted remote locking to my June 98 Gal so I now know which wires are the lock and unlock ones. However, they (Frauds) seem to be changing these all the time as they were different colours to what anyone else has posted so far for a Mk 1 Gal (red/black to lock and green/blue to open) Edited June 21, 2008 by kmac Quote
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