JohnR Posted March 6, 2008 Author Report Posted March 6, 2008 :ph34r: Knowing that it is a temporary fix, driving the vehicle carefully myself, in what way could fate intervene in respect of a slightly inadequately secured drop link??? Not completing a job is an admission of defeat. Oh and regarding the other questions:- Time-served apprenticeship, Mechanical Fitter 1980BSc(Hons) Mech Eng, Liverpool 1984PhD High Speed Machinery Design, Liverpool 1987CEng MIMechE Registration number 70377768 When my wife was ill and I tried cooking. I didn't admit defeat either. but neither did I eat it.I also referred to the previous repairs!You made no mention of renewing the snap ring or wheel hub retaining bolt both of which must be renewed. Tie rods also require new nuts.Vehicle repairs are a serious matter to most of us, so if your narration of events is written in the manner you adopted you cannot expect to be taken seriously.It is a technical forum after all. Now retiring from this post. For one, its not a snap ring its a circlip and yes I did replace it, it comes with the bearing kit (you would know that if you had done one yourself). Secondly, you are wrong. The draw-bolt used on the mark 2 is not of the disposeable kind. It is of a larger thread diameter and head size than the mark one version, and comes complete with a thick ground washer to set the bearing preload correctly. I fully intended to take a photo-record of the wheel-bearing replacement for the FAQ section as no-one else yet seems to have dones so. However, events over-took me and it was getting dark so I had to abort the process in order to get the job done. Next time you (LongGone) replace your wheelbearings, perhaps you will make a photo-record to show just how the job is supposed to be undertaken without a flypress or EnerPak.... I'd be interested to find out how "Experts" would do it at home..... My account was an attempt to express the difficulties of the operation, and resulted in my advice to "get someone else to do it if possible". Without the correct press tooling, this is not really a job to do at home which is probably why so few of us have attempted it. Whilst being the technical section of the forum, we have always interspersed the critical serious stuff with light hearted banter and comeraderie.... Please lets not lose this as it is what makes the group so successful compared to others! John(off to tempt fate by driving to work!) ;-) Quote
mk2vr6 Posted March 6, 2008 Report Posted March 6, 2008 well actually john according to Ford you do need to replace the bolt!9.Remove the wheel hub retaining bolt. Discard the wheel hub retaining bolt. 5 WARNING:Install a new wheel hub retaining bolt. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury.Note:Do not fully tighten the wheel hub retaining bolt at this stage. Install a new wheel hub retaining bolt. 6.WARNING:Install a new tie-rod end retaining nut. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury. Quote
mk2vr6 Posted March 6, 2008 Report Posted March 6, 2008 posted Today, 07:50 AM ... well it's over 12hrs now since johns reply! do we give him a bit longer or start ringing round the hospitals? Quote
LongGone Posted March 6, 2008 Report Posted March 6, 2008 does in my house,specially when ive done summit wrong............which in the missus eyes is always :lol: :lol: Good Lord, he gets about a bit. He's always here when I mess up to. Quote
JohnR Posted March 7, 2008 Author Report Posted March 7, 2008 well actually john according to Ford you do need to replace the bolt!9.Remove the wheel hub retaining bolt. Discard the wheel hub retaining bolt. 5 WARNING:Install a new wheel hub retaining bolt. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury.Note:Do not fully tighten the wheel hub retaining bolt at this stage. Install a new wheel hub retaining bolt. 6.WARNING:Install a new tie-rod end retaining nut. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury. Hi Mk2vr6, I know what the TIS says, I read it carefully before starting out. However, I BELIEVE it is out of date IR the drawbolt because:- The bearing kit comes complete with the old-style drawbolt (and circlip), which is a MUCH smaller thread diameter and head size, and has an integral "washer". There is only one torque setting given in the TIS for this operation, which with the original small bolt must take the bolt material past its elastic limit hence rendering it a single-use component. The MK2 has a 27mm hex on the bolt, and a MUCH larger thread diameter, with a thick ground separate washer. Hence there is a much more effective torque conversion to draw-force for the same applied torque, and a very much reduced stress in the bolt. This needs clarification by someone in Ford Service but I would be very surprised if this new style bolt is a chuck-away. Can anyone get clarification on this issue? John Quote
LongGone Posted March 7, 2008 Report Posted March 7, 2008 well actually john according to Ford you do need to replace the bolt!9.Remove the wheel hub retaining bolt. Discard the wheel hub retaining bolt. 5 WARNING:Install a new wheel hub retaining bolt. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury.Note:Do not fully tighten the wheel hub retaining bolt at this stage. Install a new wheel hub retaining bolt. 6.WARNING:Install a new tie-rod end retaining nut. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury. Hi Mk2vr6, I know what the TIS says, I read it carefully before starting out. However, I BELIEVE it is out of date IR the drawbolt because:- The bearing kit comes complete with the old-style drawbolt (and circlip), which is a MUCH smaller thread diameter and head size, and has an integral "washer". There is only one torque setting given in the TIS for this operation, which with the original small bolt must take the bolt material past its elastic limit hence rendering it a single-use component. The MK2 has a 27mm hex on the bolt, and a MUCH larger thread diameter, with a thick ground separate washer. Hence there is a much more effective torque conversion to draw-force for the same applied torque, and a very much reduced stress in the bolt. This needs clarification by someone in Ford Service but I would be very surprised if this new style bolt is a chuck-away. Can anyone get clarification on this issue? John Nowadays most bolts used in critical situations are use once only stretch bolts and generally are tightened by the torque\ angle method. (In extreme situations such as engine conrod bolts this method is a no go). Simply put the bolt can only be stretched once, and should be discarded. Quote
JohnR Posted March 8, 2008 Author Report Posted March 8, 2008 I fully understand the design and use of single-use drawbolts, which I will get to in a moment. I just went to Bristol Street Fords to resolve my drop-link problem. I bought a new link over the counter, Ford part number 1361653, cost Quote
searcher Posted March 8, 2008 Report Posted March 8, 2008 What happened to the original subject of the Jag wheels :) ????????????? Quote
tiny Posted March 9, 2008 Report Posted March 9, 2008 What happened to the original subject of the Jag wheels :) ????????????? Lol, i bet no one thought this topic would get 3+ pages! Quote
JohnR Posted March 9, 2008 Author Report Posted March 9, 2008 The wheels are so nice that I have a plan for them. It involves designing a PCD/CBore/Offset adaptor. Because the jag wheels are a 60 offset cf the Gals at 35/45, there is 20 odd mm to play with so it is feasible. I didn't really want to talk about it here at the risk of upsetting a certain elderly gentleman ;-) cough..cough....... Quote
searcher Posted March 9, 2008 Report Posted March 9, 2008 You cant do that it wont be safe.Youll kill us all :) Quote
mk2vr6 Posted March 9, 2008 Report Posted March 9, 2008 it's do able but! I'm sure your going to discuss this idea with your insurance company :) and get the adapter TUV approved before you fit them :) Quote
JohnR Posted March 9, 2008 Author Report Posted March 9, 2008 :) Guess its just a pipe dream....I'm so busy I'll never get around to it really. My last machine design (work) took almost 2 years to finally get though all the approvals for global shipping (Canada and USA are the worst). Approvals ultimately cost 25 to 30% of the design cost! It could be that this sort of thing could be covered by the same sort of inspections done to validate/approve self-build kit-cars.....anyone gone through that? Rapidly losing interest in this idea....It will go on my "Get around to it one day" pile! :) . Quote
searcher Posted March 9, 2008 Report Posted March 9, 2008 Is this the sort of thing your on aboutEbay item number 150212384534 Quote
JohnR Posted March 9, 2008 Author Report Posted March 9, 2008 Yep, except that I haven't yet found anyone that does the 5 stud/112/57 VW/Audi to 5 stud/108/63.3 that I would need for these wheels. Shame to have to flog em..... Quote
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