Just How Many 115tdi Turbo's Trip Out

[Smilge]

My 1999 110Bhp 73k miles tripped out again this morning. It's fine thrashing it up through the gears but come to an incline and it fails. 2000-2500 rpm, 40-50 mph in 4th gear, full throttle and it pulls fine for about 10 seconds and then there is a loss of power. Switch off the engine and restart and normal power is restored.

 

MAF was replaced 3 years ago so should be still OK. Is it likely to be the turbo at fault?

 

Check the above link .... :lol:

[Dodger]

My 1999 110Bhp 73k miles tripped out again this morning. It's fine thrashing it up through the gears but come to an incline and it fails. 2000-2500 rpm, 40-50 mph in 4th gear, full throttle and it pulls fine for about 10 seconds and then there is a loss of power. Switch off the engine and restart and normal power is restored.

 

MAF was replaced 3 years ago so should be still OK. Is it likely to be the turbo at fault?

 

Check the above link .... :lol:

 

 

Many thanks. Just spent an hour reading it. Plenty for me to going on with there.

 

I don't have VAG-COM so looks like I need to get it first. If I buy a lead from ebay will it come with the VAG-COM software which includes the VTN freeing up feature?

[tim-spam]

Any car, whatever the make, with a variable vane turbocharger will be subject to the same problem. On a Jaguar, for example, tripping into limp mode involves a trip to the dealer to reset - nice little earner that. However, the benefits of the variable vane technology far outweigh the occasional problems.

[gio]

If you get no joy from the above proceedure, then all is not lost.

 

These guy can clean the turbo for you, unlike so many so called turbo speicalist they actually can and do rebalancing too.

 

 

 

 

 

http://www.midlandturbo.com/index.html

[nigel b]

if the car goes into limp home mode due to overboosting also check what boost pressure you are running

putting your foot down in 4th and 5th will initially use more boost then settle back to the preset boost level on the actuator

you wont find this problem in the lower gears

 

if you get told about a turbo failing check the end float on the turbo

it will wiggle side to side but shouldnt move in and out

 

a badly worn turbo will wear the compressor housing

[Dodger]

Had a look at this at the weekend. Thanks to the members of this forum I understand how this is supposed to work.

 

Took the air filter housing out and the scuttle tray out to inspect the vacuum hoses. Straight away found a sizable hole in one of the pipes on the air box side of the two solenoids. So I thought I was in luck, I replaced the damaged pipe, put in a new air filter and put it all back together. Took it for a drive to try it out - absolutely no difference. It still trips into limp mode at 2000 - 2500 rpm in 4th gear and it's lacking power at low revs.

 

So my current thinking is that there has been a hole in the vacuum hose for a few months and the vanes in the turbo have stuck due to lack of use.

 

I took the vacuum pipe off the air box and blew down it (engine not running) to confirm no other leaks. I guess I could try this again with the engine running so that the solenoid to the turbo will be open.

 

I'm wondering whether there is any possibility of un-sticking the turbo vanes from the outside without removing the turbo from the engine. I don't have access to a ramp so can't easily get access to the turbo.

 

Any ideas or advice would be appreciated. It's a 1999 Galaxy 110 TDi, 73k miles. Can't contemplate taking it to the Ford dealer as I'm sure they'd just put a new turbo on it and charge the best part of what the car is worth.

[Dodger]

My VAG-COM arrived this morning so now I also have the fault code:

 

00575 Intake Manifold Pressure 17-10 Control Difference - Intermittent

 

 

Also I've tried blowing down the vacuum pipe from the air box again. With the engine stopped I can't blow anywhere, it's air tight. With the engine running I can blow through, not easily but it definitely coming out somewhere. Does this indicate another leak in the vacuum system? I disconnected the cable to the EGR solenoid and that made no difference so the leak, if there is one, is on the Turbo Boost control side.

 

Some more advice from the gurus here would be gratefully received.

[Dodger]

Fixed my problem. Just as the Ross-Tech Wiki said it would be, it was a faulty N75 valve.

 

Ross Tech Wiki

 

00575 - Intake Manifold Pressure: Control Difference

Possible Symptoms

Reduced Power

Possible Causes

Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75) defective

Hoses incorrect connected, disconnected, blocked or leaking

Possible Solutions

Check Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75)

Check Hoses

Retrieved from "http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/00575"

 

Replacement valve from Ford dealer

[ini]

If your EGR control valve stops working it is a bonus, it will save having to disconnect your EGR manually (may trigger DTC's etc on some PD's).

 

It will not affect the MOT.

 

All TDI's with an internal wastegate (VNT) suffer with this problem.

 

Temperature is the key, either changing gear at higher revs, or taking it for an extended high load journey once a month.

 

My car was always much improved after towing a heavy trailer for several hours.

It would limp for the first 50 miles, then run more powerfully and smoothly for upto a month, slowly starting to limp again.

 

The CAT is also given a good clean by prolonged exhaust temps.

[Emily's dad]

Mine was tripping out and I thought an engine "workout" had cured it, but no.

Fortunately my Alhambra is still under warranty and today had the N75 Pressure converter changed after being linked up to the diagnostic computer at my local Seat dealers.

Fingers crossed it's done the trick

 

Dave.

Edited April 25, 2008 by Emily's dad

[Turvey]

My VAG-COM arrived this morning so now I also have the fault code:

 

00575 Intake Manifold Pressure 17-10 Control Difference - Intermittent

 

 

I presume you bought this lead of ebay and you're more than happy with it? Any chance you could tell me the sellers ID? :wacko:

 

I've been having the same problem as you and a fast blast last weekend down to Inverness didn't cure it so I'm looking for a vag-com lead and software to give me a clue.

[Dodger]

My VAG-COM arrived this morning so now I also have the fault code:

 

00575 Intake Manifold Pressure 17-10 Control Difference - Intermittent

 

 

I presume you bought this lead of ebay and you're more than happy with it? Any chance you could tell me the sellers ID? ;)

 

I've been having the same problem as you and a fast blast last weekend down to Inverness didn't cure it so I'm looking for a vag-com lead and software to give me a clue.

 

I bought this one

 

VAG COM

 

and it worked fine.

[Turvey]

Thanks for that, will get one ordered ASAP.

[Davo]

Some of the earlier posts on this subject, mention sudden loss of power which is immedietely restored after switching off engine and restarting, without any mention of any warning indicators. Could these posts be suffering from a dodgy MAF (air flow sensor) rather than turbo problems? Am I right in thinking that if one experiences the turbo problems mentioned in the original post, that a warning immediately appears on the dashboard?

 

P.S. I hear a funny noise almost like a distant tyre screech when changing gears or otherwise reducing revs on the engine while driving. No loss of turbo power - is my turbo about to go? - Should I start a new topic for this?

[Busman]

Had this problem where engine stuttered between 1500 and 2000 revs becoming more frequent and annoying since changing MAF Filter last year ,also had the strange power loss. After looking on site and getting slightly confused went to my local garage and told him symptoms he ruled out turbo and said where did you get maf filter from . Told him it was from an autoparts company and he said it was the most common fault.Pulled connector off drove up and down road put connector back on and car back to normal apart from annoying jerking between 1500 and 2000 revs. Ordered new maf filter this time a genuine bosch from Trade parts specialist supplies and works like a charm.Previous posts have warned about the pattern ones and when compared they do have different parts inside so best advise is to always buy genuine items on important parts such as these.

[mitch1]

My turbo cut out 5 times within 2 days on my TDI, each time the fault could be cleared by switching the ignition off and then back on. Ford wanted

[Emily's dad]

Mine was tripping out and I thought an engine "workout" had cured it, but no.

Fortunately my Alhambra is still under warranty and today had the N75 Pressure converter changed after being linked up to the diagnostic computer at my local Seat dealers.

Fingers crossed it's done the trick

 

Dave.

 

It hasn't worked. Less than 250 miles later mine has started tripping out again, it's going back to Seat on Monday. The only consolation is that mines still under warranty.

 

The wife has begun to lose faith in the car and we've started to look around for something else, she's got her eye on a Rav 4 at the minute.

 

I'll keep you updated.

[silversword]

Yip another turbo problem - i got the turbo reconditioned 2 months ago then at low speed it went into limp mode. Back to the garage - he said not his turbo - must be MAF sensor - no change - temperature sensor - no change Control valve which i think is N75 - no change - then mechanic said it was an electrical fault. How ever had it all weekend had it up to 4000revs throughout the day on 6 or 7 occasions and it hasn't failed yet. So will let u know how it behaves, might take the caravan out but ive no faith in the car any more - so like some lookin at others now and ive got the wondering eye. But when u look at the internet to see the faults of others you wouldnt buy anything so i'll see . By the way its a 2000 1.9tdi variable vane pain in the XXX.

[Sheepdog]

My Vw 1.8 Tdi always gets a good reving, up and down over the moors. never any problems until last week. Had been running fine that morning, pulled in for a butty. on pulling out in traffic, very long line. lost power. Duh car behind rather close. No power at all Limp on to where I was going. Going home OK. A few days later fine going out on return about 30mls from where I was, went to pass a truck. Power gone again. Did not know about the switch off on bit, which I have tried since, and works for a time. Put some cleaner in as some one suggested. Going up one hill it drops powere get to top off/on OK next hill not bad further along, had to brake hard, ( A line of Ducks, walking across the road. they didnt, Duck that is. one lost iys head) as I braked the display bleeped and emmissions Workshop came on display. Slight loss of power, tried running at high revs for some parts after that. still lost power, after a few stops off/on managed to get where I was going. later display still had error. a few hours later started without error. seems fine since, but reluctant to test fully just in case, But I know I will have to. Assume the emmisions came on as maybe some rubbish from the system came loose, helped by the additive. Will wait and see

[Nomolos]

Sadly my 52 1.9 tdi turbo is doing this also and seems to be much worse after sitting on the drive for a few weeks wheels up while working on it :32:

 

I have been reading about the control arm for the turbo where about is this located? And for that matter the control valve again how do you identify it? As I want to get this somewhat annoying fault rectified as its taking a pleasant drive into work into an annoying limpfest of frustration.

 

Any pictures / diagrams gratefully received

:) :lol: :lol:

[Sheepdog]

Well the clean out additive has not worked. still loosing power, Got myself a obd interface. Tells me Error P0299.

'Turbo charger UnderBoost' As most people seem to get OVERboost errors, DUH.

Tried doing searches for the error, seems to be missing from lists. From standard OBD listings that I can find, P0 it seems is Powertrain problem, the 2 gives a 'fuel/ mix injectors' error. But that is all I can find. the specific error 99 I cannot find. If any one has any ideas, will be much appreciated. Impossible for me to try and overtake anything, even a tractor, as I think it will drop out on me. Could pull the whole system apart and see what I can find, but will save a lot of time, if I have an idea as to the area to look. Thanks in advance

[seatkid]

1. Vacuum leak - lots of pipework to check......

 

2. Sticky turbo vane actuator

[davewill]

OK, its happened to me yesterday :)

 

Drove home from work, (about 8 miles), stopped at a shop for two mins, came out, started up, and went to pull away

 

No acceleration at all, just a gentle amount of power enough to do 0 - 60 in August!

 

Only 1 mile from home so crawled along at 20mph

 

Left it an hour then started her up and acceleration seemed OK. Took it out on to a dual carriageway and used low gears to max revs before changing up (its an Auto) Drove around for half an hour or so and all seemed fine

 

Off to London tomorrow so hopefully 140 miles of motorway driving will give it a good "clear out"

 

The car has now done 45,000 miles so bit concerned that the dreaded "limp mode" has kicked in already :)

[f0ster]

Hi all,

 

Here's a challenge, just how many 115bhp galaxy/sharans can we get to go into limp home due to turbo issues.

 

Over the next week try this one and report back:

 

Start your vehicle, get it nice and warm, take it onto a motorway and accelerate hard in 4th gear from approximately 45mph on a slight incline.

 

For all you who mainly drive round town prepare for the sudden loss of power.

 

At approx 3000 rpm/60-65mph (this seems to be the critical speed and rpm) the engine will loose the turbo assistance.

 

The reason: The variable vanes in the turbo stick as they have never been closed this far and the collected debris and carbon cause them to bind and fail to open and reduce turbo boost.

 

Hey presto TURBO OVERBOOST fault. It usually only happens once as you accelerate hard and doesn't re-occur until you run round town and again clog up the turbo.

 

How to cure: The variable vane part of the turbo needs cleaning, not a new turbo.

 

However try this if you are game, for those of you with this curse, I did and it made a hell of a difference:(I did need the sand)

 

I went to Wicks and purchased 15 bags of sand. I then allowed my Sharan to warm up, then ran it up hill and down dale for 1 hour, and yes it went into limp mode the first time I pushed it hard up a hill, but it didn't again After 2 hours of driving up hill's flat out in 4th upto 60mph, I ran it down the motorway for 40miles and left it in 4th gear repeatedly slowing down and accelerating hard upto 70mph.

 

The result: One very very hot engine and possibly glowing turbo but not a single hesitation during acceleration remained and a distinct happy whistle from the turbo as it spools up even at lower revs. Used the following day and the engine was definately more responsive.

 

Shouldnt have to do this though so I suppose its just plain bad design. On a point do any 130bhp engine vehicles suffer this problem or is it only 115bhp as the turbos are different.

 

I have 03 galaxy 115bhp also same power loss but i noticed if power trips and you turn the engine off and back on the power resumes so is that mechanical or computer resetting? also i notice trips power on incline uphills. what turbo cleaner do you rewcommend ? theres no white smoke so don't think turbo broken but the sticking theory seems possible.

 

it looses power because the pcm detects too much boost, it then puts the fuel delivery in to failsafe mode, you reset it by switching off the ignition,

[Bigpaul]

Same intermittent loss of power for me but with a litle twist. When i turn off/on the light on the drivers door lock flashes. Starts off quite fast (2-3 times a second) for about 15 seconds then slows down 1(1 per second) for about 30 seconds then goes out!! Anyone with any ideas??

 

It doesnt seem that anyone has any definite solution for the turbo cutout thing other than turn off and on again. Frustrating!!!!!