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Posted (edited)

Galaxy MKI Rear Brake Pad Replacement.

 

Tools needed:

Jack.

Wheel Brace.

Calliper Wind-back tool.

Brake hose clamp.

Clear plastic hose.

 

Edited by JDF
Posted
8. Open bleed nipple and attach length of clear tubing. Don't open bleed nipple just wind back piston with tool

 

Radiotwo

 

There are a few people that will tell you on here that not opening the bleed nipple to wind back the piston will render the ABS U/S as any "crud" will end up travelling through the control unit.

Posted
or yellow jersey and hardhat and safety barrier,tut tut tut.
Posted (edited)
8. Open bleed nipple and attach length of clear tubing. Don't open bleed nipple just wind back piston with tool

 

Radiotwo

 

There are a few people that will tell you on here that not opening the bleed nipple to wind back the piston will render the ABS U/S as any "crud" will end up travelling through the control unit.

 

 

All,

Just to try and clear up this debate :-

What is the correct method for winding back the rear calliper or pushing back the front - Should the bleed nipples be open or closed????????

 

?adrianf? & gregers,

Regarding additional vehicle support - I do always use axel stands, just forgot to write it in...... (I don't seem to be able to edit the original post anymore!!!)

 

murphy,

Regarding anti seize agents, why can't you use a small bit on wheel studs/nuts? I have seen many mechanics use it in the past!!!

I always re-check the tightness of wheel nuts a couple of hundred miles after a wheel has been removed either by myself or a garage / tyre fitters

Edited by JDF
Posted
8. Open bleed nipple and attach length of clear tubing. Don't open bleed nipple just wind back piston with tool

 

Radiotwo

 

There are a few people that will tell you on here that not opening the bleed nipple to wind back the piston will render the ABS U/S as any "crud" will end up travelling through the control unit.

 

 

 

may be true but ford procedure on tis says nothing about opening bleed nipple

Posted

JDF:

And the same mechanics who do coat wheel studs with an anti seize agent were probably

ordering a new wheel centre, wheel nuts and studs two minutes after the vehicle left.

If anyone has seen or read of a publication advising this practice I would be very interested in seeing it

Posted

NikpV:

Is Tis the official Ford product? If so they probably assume that a qualified employee would

carry out this "best practice" as a matter of course without having to have it laid out in black and white..

An additional advantage in bleeding whilst winding back the brake pads is that if the pads are well worn and

the reservoir has been kept topped up to its maximum level there is no spillage of brake fluid.

Posted
If anyone has seen or read of a publication advising this practice I would be very interested in seeing it

 

I admit there are a lot of things written about not using Anti-Seize on wheel nuts on the web, but on the other habnd, also a lot about using it.

Here's just a couple:-

 

http://www.rossbrownsales.com.au/files/ant...tes__sprays.pdf

WEICON Anti-Seize in the automotive industry

WEICON Anti-Seize is used by renowned car

manufacturers and is recommended for repair and

maintenance.

 

Automobiles

Battery poles and connections, springs, suspensions,

exhaust fittings and seals, bogies, screwed connections

in chassis and body, brake cams and pins, wheel bolts

and nuts, driving wheels and chains, hose connections,

engine suspensions, injection nozzles, cylinder-head

screws.

 

http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_...brochure_uk.pdf

Loctite

Posted
There are a few people that will tell you on here that not opening the bleed nipple to wind back the piston will render the ABS U/S as any "crud" will end up travelling through the control unit.

may be true but ford procedure on tis says nothing about opening bleed nipple

 

I think this is a VW procedure Nik as I spoke to my sister-in-laws husband who works for Inchscape in Telford and that's the procedure they are taught there.

Posted
If anyone has seen or read of a publication advising this practice I would be very interested in seeing it

 

I admit there are a lot of things written about not using Anti-Seize on wheel nuts on the web, but on the other habnd, also a lot about using it.

Here's just a couple:-

 

 

 

JDF: Looks a very impressive product. Perhaps I should have been more specific and said any wheel\tyre\vehicle manufacturer.

You probably know but as a matter of interest all commercial\contractors plant vehicles over a couple of tons GVW have left hand threaded nuts on the near side wheels because they have an inherant ability to come undone with predictable results. I've also witnessed anti-seize put on the w\studs of a car in a garage and torqued up with the usual air wrench (and as usual probably set at max.) It stripped two studs before the fitter cottoned on. The actual torque setting on wheel studs is always, to my knowledge, stated to be with "Dry" studs. Anti seize would probably increase the manufacturers settings by a factor of? If it doesn't strip the thread there and then the over torque can cause the stud to shear off at a later date. Have to admit that I use anti on everything else though and in many times thanked my lucky stars that I had.

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