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Posted

I have a problem that it slowly getting worse:-

 

In any gear put your foot down hard and the car (engine) kangaroos. Started about 2 months ago, happened once then not again for about 4 weeks. Then swapped to only when the car is warmed up at about 6 miles, now it happens when ever you drive the car. Put it into a Ford dealer who after 4 days said that I needed a new ECU, I really don't think this is the issue so was adviced by the Ford dealer to take it to a VW dealer as they have better diagnostic gear for this car???? VW took one hour and said I should start by replacing the engine speed sensor but have not got any in stock at the moment, would do the job but would take about 3 hours to complete. Took the part number to Ford who have now ordered a crank postion sensor for me but i'm really not sure this is the right part. Anybody got any ideas on this as i'm slowly going mad. Have had the ECU checked out and told there is no problem with it....

Posted

I have a problem with my 2001 Galaxy (2.3 Ghia Petrol, Manual) that sounds similar.

 

If you try to put the engine under reasonably heavy load at low revs (around 1.5-2k RPM) by accelerating or towing a load, it very often gives one or two "jerks", as if the engine were skipping a beat. This has happened for a number of years but has become more frequent & noticeable lately.

 

In the "good old days" before electronic engine management (back when I had no money and used to fix car problems myself :wub: ) I'd have guessed this was a fuel supply problem e.g. dirty fuel or partially blocked carb jets etc., but with ECUs god only knows what's going on.

 

I could pay a garage several hundred quid to investigate & come up with some vague possibilities but I was hoping someone else might have a good idea what might be causing this.

Posted

Mines in being looked at as we speak.

 

The crank sensor takes half an hour to change (I've just done it)

 

It's on the front of the engine as you look under the bonnet. To the right near the starter. Bolted into the block with a 9 mm bolt.

 

Normal socket, On wobbly extension and ratchet and it can be done from above. The wire in the grey plug on the front of the block near the alternator.

 

I will advise the following.

 

Normally seems to be the maf.

I changed mine - no difference.

MAP - Changed mine No difference

Crank Sensor - Changed mine no difference.

 

Checked turbo operation (Vanes moving) and all is moving well.

 

Checked engine wiring loom (In head, which seems favourite but throws a misfire code) no difference.

 

I said to my dealer it feels very much like fuel starvation. ie. When turbo cuts in the fuel is not enrichened to give more power. It seems to be on a default value and doesn't do anything.

 

My thinking is maybe throttle potentiometer. But they are starting from scratch and I will have an answer tomorrow.

 

Strange how it seems everyone with a 115 PS suffers this problem!

 

The vehicle speed sensor VSS isnt the crank sensor apparently. It's eithetr the speedo sensor or an abs sensor. My spped sensor was throwing strange signals when revving the engine. Thinking it was the crank sensor I changed that. However, the speed sensor is totally different!

 

Looks like we'll all be comparing notes! :wub: :wub:

Posted

Just changed the crank postion sensor and took for a test drive and still the same problem.

 

What I have noticed today is:-

 

Glow plug light on dash is not always coming on, reset key until it does come on, normally 2/3 times, wait for light to go out and starts fine. When wife drives it I'm sure she does not watch this light so hence has had starting problems.

 

Engine runs fine for the first 20 seconds when on the drive, I then notice a change in the engine tone like it's missing a beat and then I know when ever I drive and put load on it I lose complete power. I agree it sounds just like a fuel problem but what???

 

If you get any luck let me know as this is driving me mad.... Got the sensor from Ford who told me the part has been superseeded so supplied a new part but as i said before that has not sorted the problem.

Posted

Just found this bit of info on the internet what do you all think???

 

 

hi your problem is the boost control attached to the injection pump,it works with the turbo, if you look at your pump you should see a compartment on the side of it, there is an air pipe attached to it that leads to the turbo. if you disconnect it and fuel comes out, thats your problem. its very easy to replace it. where the pipe is you should see a nut & bolt holding a cover. remove the nut, then the cover, then you should have another cover with 3 star bolts holding it on. unscrew these and gently remove from the housing, coz there is a spring just inside and you do not want to lose this!!! in the opening you should find a saucer shaped part with 2 rubbers attached to it, 1 sml and 1 large. the large 1 should be attached to the metal and have no warps, dents or

cracks. you can get a new one from Bennetts & son at watford : 01923 239534. or you can try a local scrappy. A ford engine of the same type, year and fuel should have a suitable part to replace it with. take note..... the small rubber should be on the inside of the pump. you will also have to change your oil and filter as this problem contaminates your oil. good luck (check the air line first) .

Posted

Thats for the non PD engine mate.

 

Ours have a "valve" at the back of the engine behind a silver shield on the bulk head.

 

Assuming you have the PD engined 115 ps you have an electric fuel pump and the injectors are driven by camshaft.

 

The boost is controlled via an electric signal sent to the "fvalve" on the bulk head that in turn allows more vacuum to pull the vane open to allow more boost (Air flow).

 

This forum is a great source of all this when you look through.

 

My first problem was the pipe had been cut by the drive shaft. Also the vane control was stiff (which I freed and it works fine).

 

My car boosts to 12.4 bar and then the boost drops off at about 3600 rpm. Standing still and flooring the throttle the engine max revs is 4200 rpm (no where near red line).

 

I get no black smoke whatsoever hence why I think it's fuel issue. Normally a turbo issue will give black smoke as the extra fuel is being delivered but the boost isn't.

 

In my case I think boost is being delivered but fuel isn't hence the misfire.

 

I have been thinking along the lines of throttle switch or even temp switch for ecu.

 

Worst case scenario I'm thinking is the barometric sensor in the ECU. If this thinks it's in a hot environment it will weaken the mixture (I think). If itthinks it's up a mountain it will richen the mixture to compensate for thin air.

 

This seems quite a common problem but we dont seem to have a resolution as yet.

Posted

Well spoted, yes I do have a 115hp engine, never mind....

 

I have found a site that will rebuild your ecu for 90 plus parts if you interested... http://www.the-ecu-doctor.co.uk/ I just can not belive it's the ECU...

 

It such a shame sombody who Galaxy is still in warrenty has not had this problem, Ford would then have to fix it........ instead of leaving us all lost in the dark.

 

How many other people have you seen on here with the same problem? I've been reading and seen many people with similar problems, all unresolved...

Posted

I agree ref ECU.

 

My next door neighbours father is the service manager at the Ford dealers I've got mine at.

 

We'll see. The mechanics already made muted comments of "turbo!". I thought yeh right mate!

 

I'm scouring all over to find the answer.

 

 

Let's keep our fingers crossed!

Posted

I think that refers to petrol.

 

Mine ticks over fine.

 

It drives fine as long as it isn't under any load (ie cruising)

 

It doesn't miss when revving stationary.

 

It only appears when the car isunder load (which you could say is an air leak). Next question is the air leak? would need to be on the control side that regulates the fuel flow.

 

And I cannot $%$

Posted

Just noticed your in Northamptonshire.

 

We travel to Billing regularly as we have a mobile there!

 

Just to change subject quickly to stop me ripping my hair out! :angry2:

Posted

I'm in a village called Guilsborugh which is north northamptonshire.

 

I do know Billing as I bought the Galaxy 2 years ago from the Carshop just around the corner. At the time I thought it was a great price......

Posted

Oh yes. The carshop. I visit regularly just to have a peep.

 

I dont think they're very cheap anymore to be honest

Posted

Hi all

 

My brother had an engine power loss issue with his '04 115 Tdi, and it was still under warranty. It was taken to his local Ford garage where they replaced the Turbo and all is fine now.

 

I will give him a nudge and try and find out some more details for you to see if it is similar.

Posted

Update.

 

Just got car back.

 

Synopsis.

 

Checked Turbo operation. All OK

 

Checked wiring - All ok

 

Swapped map sensor from the new euro car part sensor I put in yesterday. Boost went from 1.4 - 2 bar (Correct)

Cleaned the new Map and it's 85% but not perfect. Advise new genuine map.

 

Also still have misfire but much less.

 

They say it's almost certainly MaF sensor. Told the I have replaced twice with GSF (Bosch) and they say that these are generic not specifically set up for the car.

 

Said to replace and they are sure the misfire will disappear!

 

Drove home. Still no real acceleration but it's 100% better than it was. So start saving my pennies! it seems

Posted

Were did you get the tool for taking the bolts out of the MAF sensor, strange onces these....

 

My diesel light is hardly coming on now so a nightmare to start now....

 

Am thinking of sending the ECU to ecu-doctor to have a look at, one problem will be without a car for 6 days....

 

On a lighter note I hope a new MAF in your car will fix it...

 

Do you know if the MAF has anything to do with the disel heater, long shot I know but worth asking....

 

Wife driving me mad about the problem, she even got a trade in cost from Ford today, what a joke they offered me

Posted

I think the glow plugs are instant on these (mine are). I think your starting problem is something other than glowplugs mate.

 

Maybe you have a fuelling problem (fuel filter?)

 

Or the MAF. Get some carb cleaner and squirt (from a distance of a couple of inches) the sensor wire as I read they can get an oily film on them and give false readings.

 

If you have the funny torque screws you can by them from halfords and the like. Mine are normal cross head screws possibly where it was changed before.

 

if necessary undo the spring clip that holds the inlet pipe on. Undo the four screws that hold the air cleaner top on and remove. squirt through the tube with an extension piece on the aerosol.

 

Do the same with the MAP sensor on the pipe from the intercooler.

 

DO NOT start the engine with either disconnected as it will log an error code

Posted

I'm begining to think more and more it's the ECU with all these other little problems that are happening. Glowplug light not coming on as it should is just another problem to add to the list....

 

 

It's enought to sent a man to drink...

 

Will give your idea a go at the weekend, many thanks.

Posted

Update to the on going problem.

 

Gone to another garage, diesel one this time, had the car 2 days still no closer to fixing it. Starting it takes a long time, turn the key no glow plug light on, turn it on off about 20 plus times and in the end hey presto it comes on, starts fine then. Engine is runs fine for the first 20 seconds then runs like a dog, sounds like its missing... Still no answers.

 

 

Anybody got any other ideas.... Please.....

Posted

I have similar problem. MAF changed, turbo changed, turbo boost valve changed and vacuum pipes checked with kindly donated perfectly working sister vehicle.

 

No VAG Com fault codes.....However, I have noticed a very high MAF reading, I am getting almost double what it should be. It is not the MAF sensor. Any suggestions what may cause this and if it could be related to the lack of power. ??

Posted
Are you sure its not an electrical problem....Ignition Relay possibly....this would kill both your glowplugs and ECU playing hell with the smooth running of the engine.
  • 2 weeks later...

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