New Rear Discs And Pads

[NikpV]

I've been quoted

[JohnR]

If I recall correctly, a very sturdy 7mm Allen key to remove callipers.

[NikpV]

If I recall correctly, a very sturdy 7mm Allen key to remove callipers.

 

 

cheers

[mk2vr6]

de greaser/brake cleaner,high melting point grease(coppa slip will do) hose clamps and a bleed kit, and a clue to what your doing? if you havent a clue dont mess with brakes!

[Sher]

Look here for a fairly complete list of tools

 

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...c=12454&hl=

 

But watch out for the wind back tool. One member stated it was Left hand wind back but when I tried using it it didn't work. I had to return it for a Right handed clockwise tool.

 

I found it impossible without it.

[Brookydave]

I have used a set of mintex pads and discs both front and rear from ebay. They have been great for 1 year.

I found a simple bar used sensibly wound bak the rear pistons with ease.

No copper slip needed for mintex pads - they have a fibre backing.

I would never clamp brake hoses. I had one fail 1 day after clamping many years ago - it were scary.

Easy job

good luck

Dave

[El Dingo]

Personally I'm not keen on Mintex, having fitted that brand to a Seat Leon in the past. They glazed and squealed (Crash and burn, Mav...). I ended up replacing them with Seat genuine parts. Can't comment on how good Mintex would be on a Galaxy though.

I did my rear pads in September 2006; pads were

[tiny]

If I recall correctly, a very sturdy 7mm Allen key to remove callipers.

 

Spanners for the rear caliper bolts, cant remember the exact sizes but 19 & 15 ring a bell. The only allen bolt is the one that locates the disc on the hub.

And I'd recommend copper slip on the rear face of the pads regardless of wether they have a composite pad on them. Belt & Braces, you only want to do the job once and brake squeal is bloody annoying.

Edited September 26, 2007 by tiny

[sparky Paul]

And I'd recommend copper slip on the rear face of the pads regardless of wether they have a composite pad on them. Belt & Braces, you only want to do the job once and brake squeal is bloody annoying.

I'd second that.

 

I've had Mintex discs/pads on the front now for a couple of years without any problems, I would fit them again without hesitation.

[Sher]

El Dingo's comment reminded me

 

Don't forget the bleed nipple spanner, piece of plastic pipe and empty jam jar (I don't subscribe to clamping the flexible brake pipe).

 

I use clear neoprene tube and ALWAYS make sure it is long enough to raise the pipe ABOVE the level of the bleed nipple before it drops away to the collection device.

This prevents fluid draining out and air rising into the system.

 

P.S. My biggest problem is getting clean fluid into the reservoir and seeing what level it is at.

[ninjakev]

If I recall correctly, a very sturdy 7mm Allen key to remove callipers.

 

Spanners for the rear caliper bolts, cant remember the exact sizes but 19 & 15 ring a bell. The only allen bolt is the one that locates the disc on the hub.

And I'd recommend copper slip on the rear face of the pads regardless of wether they have a composite pad on them. Belt & Braces, you only want to do the job once and brake squeal is bloody annoying.

 

13mm and 15mm - I know, I just had to strip down the caliper and free-off the piston in my o/s rear caliper as it was binding. The dust seal had popped out some time in the past and grime had got in. BTW the dust seal is a real pain in the butt to get back on :D

It is a 10 mm spaniard for the bleed nipple iirc.

Another thing I didn't have a wind-back tool, so very carefully used a small pair of hens-legs on the pad end of the piston to wind the piston back in. Worked a treat. :lol:

Edited September 28, 2007 by ninjakev

[tiny]

very carefully used a small pair of hens-legs on the pad end of the piston to wind the piston back in. Worked a treat. :lol:

 

Watch the animal rights lot dont get you! :wacko:

[JohnR]

Just done my rear disks and pads this morning. On my Mk2 Tdi (2002) the rear caliper fixings are 18mm hex heads. They were a bit tight, but some wd40 and a good socket on an 18" breaker bar plus a hide mallet soon shifted them. The disk fixing is a 6mm hex key. Bleed nipple is 10mm but mine was easier with an adjustable as it was a bit rusty.

 

Hardest part was getting the new pads into the caliper for some reason....have done loads of these on other cars and it was just a really tight fit.

 

Just need to find the brake fluid reservoir now....where did they put it? Seems very illogical not to have it on view when you open the bonnet!

[Sher]

I presume you have found it but for others it is hidden away near the Bulkhead behind the Air Filter and MAF.

 

Even the professionals were looking in the power steering reservoir for a lack of fluid when my Clutch Slave cylinder went.

 

Anyone have a good/easy way of filling it up?

[ninjakev]

I presume you have found it but for others it is hidden away near the Bulkhead behind the Air Filter and MAF.

 

Even the professionals were looking in the power steering reservoir for a lack of fluid when my Clutch Slave cylinder went.

 

Anyone have a good/easy way of filling it up?

 

I decanted small amounts into a 100ml clean glass bottle and managed to get my huge hands at the reservoir by taking the plastic engine cover off aswell. It's fiddly, but the safest way. I suppose a visit to a friendly farm vet might get you a huge syringe to use which would be easier still :wacko:

[El Dingo]

I presume you have found it but for others it is hidden away near the Bulkhead behind the Air Filter and MAF.

 

Even the professionals were looking in the power steering reservoir for a lack of fluid when my Clutch Slave cylinder went.

 

Anyone have a good/easy way of filling it up?

 

I decanted small amounts into a 100ml clean glass bottle and managed to get my huge hands at the reservoir by taking the plastic engine cover off aswell. It's fiddly, but the safest way. I suppose a visit to a friendly farm vet might get you a huge syringe to use which would be easier still :wacko:

 

I use a kitchen baster. You can buy them from John Lewis, Lakeland, Dyas, etc...

Wife had to buy a new one. :lol:

[El Dingo]

!!!***NEW***!!!

From Dingo's Kitchen

 

Do you want to be a Master Baster?

Well now you can, with Dingo's kitchen baster.

 

Available from all good kitchen shops now. RRP

[JohnR]

Just whipped the airbox out....easy then.

 

What was not easy was undoing the 27mm hex heads on the front calipers! Had to buy a nice chunky straight ring spanner in the end (used an 1" 1/16" in the end which is 26.9875). With a 4lb hammer, I eventually got them shifting. That was after I sheared off a 1/2" drive when trying it with a socket and 24" breaker bar!

[NikpV]

job done - 90mins taking my time for rear discs and pads -

[big_kev]

job done - 90mins taking my time for rear discs and pads -

Edited October 21, 2007 by big_kev

[NikpV]

reckon I could do the rears in an hour now :( B) :(

[gregers]

reckon I could do the rears in an hour now :( :( B)

 

cool thats about 18 quid an hour by teachers rates :lol: ,when can you do mine then? :lol:

[NikpV]

[big_kev]

reckon I could do the rears in an hour now :( B) :lol:

 

cool thats about 18 quid an hour by teachers rates :lol: ,when can you do mine then? :lol:

 

 

Oy ! ....Hands off...he's mine.. :(

[gregers]

bloody hell thats the last time YOU CAN BLEAT YOU DONT EARN ENOUGH THEN AS A TEACHER.