scrappydoo Posted September 24, 2007 Report Posted September 24, 2007 Wonder if anyone can help... I have seen similar problems to mine posted on this great site, but have tried most if not all of the fixes that have worked for everyone else, but without success: It started off intermittently but became permanent after a couple of weeks (this is a Mk1 W reg 2000 Galaxy): If I unlock/lock with the boot lock all doors unlock except the driver's; both front windows roll down/up as usual if the key is held in position long enough, but I always have to unlock/lock the drivers door separately and always in the sequence boot first then driver door, otherwise during the locking sequence if I lock the driver door first then boot, the driver's door unlocks! Along with this, occasionally the fuel filler cap will not unlock but I have seen no pattern as to when it will or won't unlock. I have inspected the wiring loom in the drivers door gaiter and as far as i can see inside the door, but see no evidence of chafed wires and no related fuses appear to have blown Any help/suggestions would be much appreciated Quote
NikpV Posted September 24, 2007 Report Posted September 24, 2007 (edited) do the windows work with the switches - the global closing (key in lock) use different wires i think - still may be wiring problem check tailgate wiring and other doors - for shorts and broken insulation btw the wires break inside the insulation so its not just chafing you are looking for - have another look at the drivers door Edited September 24, 2007 by NikpV Quote
scrappydoo Posted September 24, 2007 Author Report Posted September 24, 2007 Thanks for the reply - the windows work with the switches as normal, the global closing works from the boot lock, but not the driver's door lock (passenger lock knackered since I've had it) I did look at the tailgate gaiter wiring - when I looked in there it looked like a small bomb had gone off! - a black and blue thickish wire (2.5mm crimp worked) had broken, brown/red, yellow/black, and red/yellow wires all had broken insulation and bare wires exposed, in addition to which both hi-level brake light wires had broken All crimped/insulation taped as required, but perhaps I should have a look and see if I missed any others: (I knew the hi-level brake lights weren't working and pleased that I've fixed them now but don't know if I've inadvertently fixed anything else!) I will look again at the driver door wiring and other doors, but any idea of the coloured wires I should focus on for the locking and is there an easy way of detecting broken wires within an unbroken insulation? Avometer, I suppose? Quote
scrappydoo Posted September 25, 2007 Author Report Posted September 25, 2007 Problem sorted now: a good mate came round, had a look at a wiring diagram and traced back to a splice where all 6 wires (5 doors + fuel filler door) + feed are spliced together - guess the location: front passenger footwell where the rear wash/wipe pipe has a well known joint which frequently splits and which I have been a victim of... The point where the splice is, was absolutely soaked and the wires were all corroded (pictures to follow when I'm allowed to post them).Wires re-spliced and heat shrunk and the central locking now works fine!Cost: a curry and a couple of beers :rolleyes: Quote
mumof4 Posted September 25, 2007 Report Posted September 25, 2007 Glad you got it sorted, you should be able to post pics if not now then with your next post. :rolleyes: Quote
mk2vr6 Posted September 26, 2007 Report Posted September 26, 2007 just had a similer problem with my new toy, (scooby na sports hatch) the cables to the rear hatch had broke! not in the rubber boot where they flex but further down into the car body Quote
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