1.9 Tdi Cylinder Head Need Instruction Procedure

[chicken_arse_legs]

I have a p reg Galaxy 1.9 TDI I believe the 90bhp and the cylinder head is damaged due to the cam belt tentioner.

I have replaced the cam belt and tensioner with new ones.

I am going to take off the head but I am worried about putting it back on as I am going

to spend money to get my one repaired and dont want to end up at square 1 again!

 

If you see what I mean!

 

 

 

The locking pin is in the fuel pump and the locking plate aswell to stop the cam shaft from moving!

I have had the timing checked by a mechanic, which is fine now as he tried to get it started

but ofcouse failed as the cylinder head is damaged.

 

 

 

BUT this mechanic is too busy now to put on my head (my galaxy is outside my house and not in a mechanic's garage),

and I cant get anyone on a call out!

 

I now want to put on the head myself with the help of the manule book.

 

 

 

 

So can anyone please give me some hints, guide lines, do and don'ts, or tell me of some legendary special tools to go by to carry out this procedure without damaging the cylinder head?????

 

Some times the manule isn't enough or just not detailed enough.

 

I would be most gratefull!

Edited September 8, 2007 by chicken_arse_legs

[seatkid]

Essential - a decent torque wrench c/w sockets/allen key sockets, valve-G clamp, valve lapper/valve grinding paste and a nice clean bench.

 

Take your time and think at each stage, its really annoying when you realise you forgot something after you put it back together.

 

Drain the water before you take off the head- just enough to stop oodles going into the cylinders when you take the head off.

 

While the head is off, inspect the piston crowns/cylinder walls for damage/debris

 

Strip valves and remember/mark where they go - you can't interchange the positions without reseating!

 

Inspect valves and valve seats for damage - a badly damaged valve seat may require a specialist to repair the seat.

 

Replace any valves, cam followers etc. that are suspect - probably better to do all of them. New valves will have to be re-seated, follow the instructions on the grinding paste tin.

 

Alternatively, there may be a specialist who will refurb your head, if you don't feel like doing it yourself - check Yellow pages.

 

Don't forget to use a new head gasket, and to top up the water when you've refitted the head.

 

Patience and time is the biggest requirement

[syedorf]

hi do as seatkid says but get a full head set these inculde exhaust and inlet gaskets and new bolts as the bolts could be stretched i would also recommend all new valves and a head skim some people dont bother as it hasnt overheated but it is always worth it for roughly 25 pound it could save you taking the head off also observe the tightening sequence in reverse when taking the head off the tightening sequence should look something like this

 

7 3 1 5 9

8 4 2 6 10

 

also clean the block up thoroughly with some 80 sand paper and wd40 then dty it off prior to lifting head back on it also helps on the exhaust manifold and side of the head i have never done one on galaxy so i dont know if they are very hard or not draw diagrams and take pictures and mark wires up with masking tape and write where they go if you have done the belt you should be able to do this just take your time

[chicken_arse_legs]

Hi Syedorf & Seatkid

 

 

Thanks for your advice a few things like the tools was helpful and the 80 sand paper but I'm going to get a specialist to repair the head for me, as i dont trust myself to be able to repair the head.

 

The main concern was putting the head back on, as the head may become damaged again due to piston and value contact, thats my main concern.

 

I really wanted a run down on once the head is on, putting the head on timing, the marking in bell housing.

Any do's and dont's with concerning that, what should I look out for!

 

I guess I have an idea what to do but just really nervous and want reassurance that I'm doing it correct.

Really really dont want to damage the head as its costing me an arm and a leg and prob 2toes and a thumb!lol

 

 

Syedorf & Seatkid if you two or anyones else can advise on the head furthur and on my nerves as well please!

 

Thank you guys!

[Neils TDi again]

The tightening sequence as far as I can remember is as follows: shown as is looking down on the engine from above and in front of the car.

 

10 4 2 6 8

5 7 1 3 9

 

And at each of the following values: Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in four stages.

 

1 Stage 1: 40 Nm.

 

2 Stage 2: 60 Nm.

 

3 Stage 3: 90 degrees.

 

4 Stage 4: 90 degrees.

[Brookydave]

The marking in the flywheel is difficult to see. I took the battery and tray out, and No1 heater plug, then found tdc on 1 - then the mark is obvious!!

I would not skim the head if it looked OK, as you can up with a cam catenary.

I would use the more accepted practice of decking the block with a large flat oilstone rather than 60 grade 'sandpaper'.

Follow the ford CD - its a simple task - just make sure all your vacuum hose are on the correct bits.

The contact angle before valve foul is very large on the tdi to my suprise, and good fortune.

Good Luck

Dave

[chicken_arse_legs]

Thanks neil_wiles and Dave (aka Brookydave) for your replies,

 

Dave, when the mechanic retimed it for me he showed me the making in the bell housing, yea its hard to see

 

but one thing about that - what do you line up with the arrow in the bellhouse or is it just aslong as you can see it through the hole its in the position?

 

 

You was mentioning the contact angle about the value, The tensioner became damaged but the thing about that is the engine was not running at the time of value to piston contact. The value to piston contact happened when trying to start the engine and it was only making a slight knocking noise. so I'm hoping theres not too much damage.

 

What you think?

Got to just open it up and see.

 

Thanks for the detail guys!

 

P.s Dave I'm using the haynes manuel book rather than the ford cd, is the ford cd the same or would you advice me to purchase one?

Edited September 11, 2007 by chicken_arse_legs

[Neils TDi again]

If you had low speed contact eg when turning the engine over with the starter the damage will be quite different, hope fully it will have punched the valve followers and they may have burst as they are hollow if this is the case, possible because the valves and the pistons are directly in line, then the valves may still be serviceable.

 

Try a drop of petrol in each head recess before removing the valves to check for the sealing of the valaves it may save a lot of work lapping in new valves.

 

A new set of hydraulic lifters is only around the forty quid so you may be lucky.

[chicken_arse_legs]

Thanks neil_wiles for your reply,

 

your making me really happy now lol!

 

Well lets hope it minimal damage, I'm going to for sure send it to a specialist to get it repaired but he did mention to me that all the ones he gets in are so damaged that they are too far gone to repair so therefore only sells new head units.

 

So he did make clear to me that mine maybe same! but i didnt mention to him the damaged accured when turning engine.

 

 

Acually neil give me a run down on the procedure on "punched the valve followers and they may have burst as they are hollow if this is the case"

 

 

What would be the repair procedure if this is the case? and you said "Try a drop of petrol in each head recess before removing the valves to check for the sealing of the valaves it may save a lot of work lapping in new valves"

 

Its a tdi do you mean pour some deisel and you mentioned head recess?

is that the circular parts when you open the black cover off the top of the head and do you think I would be able to fix the head if i have no idea what a recess?

Just let everyone know I dont mind getting my hands dirty but I'm just a beginner, sure I know how to service a car from oil change to brakes, but engine itself its not like these things happen so regular.

 

If it did happen to me so regular I be crying and prob just end up push biking every where instead.

So guys if i can repair this, if its that easy then il need details for sure.

 

Thanks guys you lot got talent!

Edited September 11, 2007 by chicken_arse_legs

[Neils TDi again]

The use of petrol in the cylinder head once removed.

 

Turn the head upside down and you will see all the valves facing upwards if your pour a little petrol in the recess where the valves are and it does not weep through the seal then there is a good chance that those valves are not damaged.

 

The repair is to replace any damaged valves, lap the new ones into the seats and replace all the hydraulic cups (known sometimes as tappets due to the noise) and then recheck the sealing of each before reassembly.

 

Best of luck.

[syedorf]

when you lift the head back on you should not have the cam tightened down as this lifts the valves down just leave them loose then tighten them after tis should avoid any damage

[syedorf]

brookydave what is a cam catnery and how can this tell how flat the head is i havent heard of 1 of these and it could save me a lot of money as i do a lot of old merc heads thx

[syedorf]

when you lift the head back on you should not have the cam tightened down as this lifts the valves down just leave them loose then tighten them after tis should avoid any damage

as long as the timing is set right

[chicken_arse_legs]

hi syedorf,

 

Thanks for you comments and advice, dearly noted.

 

I have one question it might be hard to anwser coz it might need some explaintion and as i do not posses much knowlegde on this area.

 

you said "when you lift the head back on you should not have the cam tightened down"

 

how is the cam tighted, or are you talking about the cam sproket (cam wheel that the timing belt goes on)?

 

and you said "as this lifts the valves down just leave them loose then tighten them after tis should avoid any damage"

 

Just woundering tighten the cam after what? when the head is on and bolted on?

 

 

Hope I'm not getting on peoples nerves, you guys must be thinking "this guy is soooooooooooo soooooo sooo Dumb and dumb is the only closet word in the english language"

 

O well, What can you do!

 

Thanks for you patience guys!

[syedorf]

hi chicken to get a head skimmed [i recommend this whith full head set inc new bolts] you need to remove the full cam remove the rocker cover [top engine cover] then there should be five or six cam carriers that hold the cam down remove these then mark which 1 came from where as they are worn individually use tippex then when refitting remove tippex before reinstalling then you should see all the valves closed this is when you turn it upside down then use the petrol though i have never done this i usually just look for :fresh: marks on the cylinder it is a top idea thoughi will use it in future when you have the head skimmed just leave the carriers loose when you refit the head also you should replace the water pump at the same time i know it is irelevant but it is easy to do when the timing belt is stripped off sorry forgot to mention before you should remove the cam followers [ buckets] before sending to get skimmed ps yes i di mean tighten cam after head has been torqued down in the set procedure [stages]

[chicken_arse_legs]

hi chicken to get a head skimmed [i recommend this whith full head set inc new bolts] you need to remove the full cam remove the rocker cover [top engine cover] then there should be five or six cam carriers that hold the cam down remove these then mark which 1 came from where as they are worn individually use tippex then when refitting remove tippex before reinstalling then you should see all the valves closed this is when you turn it upside down then use the petrol though i have never done this i usually just look for :fresh: marks on the cylinder it is a top idea thoughi will use it in future when you have the head skimmed just leave the carriers loose when you refit the head also you should replace the water pump at the same time i know it is irelevant but it is easy to do when the timing belt is stripped off sorry forgot to mention before you should remove the cam followers [ buckets] before sending to get skimmed ps yes i di mean tighten cam after head has been torqued down in the set procedure [stages]

 

 

 

What did you just call me? chicken? :lol:

 

lol

just messing, thanks for that syedorf.

 

I guess i just have to now get down to it and deal with the head rather being a chicken!

 

lets see, hummm!

take off the front window to start with, then the gear nob, which should make it easy to take of the rear passager door!

in turn i can start to dismantle the gear box and take out the reverse sensor!

then forget about the half done gear box to go and hammer the starter montor, about 12 blows should do it.

Then Drill a few speed holes in the radiator, think il need a hilti hammer drill for that!

And then let me see humm!

I guess start on the rocket cover!

 

 

doesnt really look like a rock so il get the hammer and soon sort that problem out!

 

ok il go and do all that right away, unless if anyone has any objections to that?

 

bye! :lol:

[gregers]

Then Drill a few speed holes in the radiator, think il need a hilti hammer drill for that!

 

 

NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! much to big and powerful,now a nice little hand drill will suffice. :lol: :lol:

[chicken_arse_legs]

Then Drill a few speed holes in the radiator, think il need a hilti hammer drill for that!

 

 

NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! much to big and powerful,now a nice little hand drill will suffice. :46: :angry2:

 

 

 

What are you talking about gregers, I already powered down from a jack hammer!

 

I was also going to hammer some more tracktion into my tyres, masionary nail should be sufficient!

 

Lets see I have as present have a big sun roof, which use to be my front window i guess more of a moon roof than a sun roof!

 

half an engine that prob give me half the torque that should be compensatated by the rocket cover acually looking like a rocket so twice as moch torque than before, no gear box and gear nob! so instead of house power its Back to old school filstones power.

 

no rear passenger door (less surface area for the air to hit, air resistance).

 

o yea and no reverse sensor as i wasnt intending to go backwards, well who want to look back after the almost free mods ive done on this babe!

 

And off road tyres.

 

Have i left anything out?

o yea i didnt put in the nitro, il cut 7 holes right in front of each chair, and il shout out NITRO and i should feel a sudden jolt of superb rush of power and increase of wind going through my hair as everyone contributes to pushing with their legs.

 

I can just see it

[chicken_arse_legs]

Then Drill a few speed holes in the radiator, think il need a hilti hammer drill for that!

 

 

NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! much to big and powerful,now a nice little hand drill will suffice. :46: :angry2:

 

 

 

What are you talking about gregers, I already powered down from a jack hammer!

 

I was also going to hammer some more tracktion into my tyres, masionary nail should be sufficient!

 

Lets see I have as present have a big sun roof, which use to be my front window i guess more of a moon roof than a sun roof!

 

half an engine that prob give me half the torque that should be compensatated by the rocket cover acually looking like a rocket so twice as moch torque than before, no gear box and gear nob! so instead of house power its Back to old school filstones power.

 

no rear passenger door (less surface area for the air to hit, air resistance).

 

o yea and no reverse sensor as i wasnt intending to go backwards, well who want to look back after the almost free mods ive done on this babe!

 

A broken starter motor, well who gona stop after this babe it completed, never be a finish to be a start!

And off road tyres.

 

Have i left anything out?

o yea i didnt put in the nitro, il cut 7 holes right in front of each chair, and il shout out NITRO and i should feel a sudden jolt of superb rush of power and increase of wind going through my hair as everyone contributes to pushing with their legs.

 

I can just see it

[seatkid]

I think its all been a bit too much for him....... :46:

 

The poor chap's finally cracked....... :angry2:

[chicken_arse_legs]

Yea i know im getting carried away!

 

rather me then the head cracked!

 

 

all i been doing is waiting and waiting got to start on the thing 2ow or il never end up dong it at this rate!

 

been waiting on someone to get me some tools!

 

o well il wait until 2ow otherwise il just go and get them myself!

 

thanks everyone for your help and il keep you posted on the progress or on any further information il might be needing,

 

 

Thanks!