Correct Lead For Vag-com

[ed austin]

Hi all,

 

I'm having a problem with my 97 2.8v6 galaxy intermittently not starting, and now just dieing. I've started a thread in the traniee member section on this. All help very gratefully received!!

 

I have bought a OBD2 KKL KWP-2000 lead from ebay, to help diagnose the problem. However, I can't seem to connect to the car using vag-com. Have I bought the wrong lead? Which lead do I need to connect to this car? I think the virtual com port is setup correctly in windows.

 

Sorry if this has been dealt with before - I did search!!

 

Thanks for your help

 

Ed

[dipsomaniac]

the leads have now been standardised so should be ok. if you are using a lead without the registration dongle you need to download the earlier version of vag-com - 311.2.

[turk90210]

sorry guys but the plugs have been standardized on all cars but as this vehicle is a v6 FORD engine vag.com will NOT communicate with the engine ecu as it will only connect to what is vw based eg abs instruments parking sensors ect oh and the diesel engine of course (vw 1.9 engine)

you can also use version 409 but as it is a 3rd party lead you have to get the serial version of the software and if the lead is a usb lead the drivers for the lead to emulate ( i think that is what it is called ) the serial connection

As for engine faults for any of the Ford petrol engines you will need a generic obd reader or ford specific

if you pm me with your email addy i can email the drivers i got with my 3rd party lead but as i have said it wont connect to the engine ecu

[djx]

since when was the galaxy vr6 engine a ford unit?????

[28vr6]

My VagCom & VWtool s/ware communicate perfectly with my Galaxy 2.8 V6 VW engine and the rest of the VW in Ford clothing

[dipsomaniac]

the v6 is definately a vw unit. i communicate with mine via a std serial cable (without dongle) using vag com version 311.2. i could not communicate with the 'dumb' interface using version 409.

[ed austin]

Thanks for all these replies.

 

I've installed a windows serial port emulator for the lead from http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm, the filename was CDM 2.02.04 WHQL Certified.zip. I used this because the drivers that came with lead seemed to be for win98 or 2000, and my laptop runs winxp. I have the virtual com port set to com4. I think the driver part is working. In vag-com 311.2, when I select 'test' from 'options' with the lead connected, but not plugged into the car, it says, 'com port status : OK, 'Interface status : 3 not found or not ready'. When I plug the lead into the car and press test again, it says 'interface status : 0 ready'. So it knows it's plugged into the car!! When I press the OBD-II button vag-com says that the car is not OBD-II compatible.

 

I will try to interrogate the ABS controller when I get a chance, to see if I can read anything using this setup!

 

Is there a specific Ford OBD reader I can run on my laptop using this lead?

 

Thanks again for all your posts.

 

Ed

[dipsomaniac]

connect lead to computer and to car. load software, once you have connected save settings. then click 'select' not 'obd II'.

[ed austin]

thanks. I don't think I've tried starting Vag-com *after* plugging in to the car. Do you think that could make much difference?

 

I had the idea it might be something to do the firewall on my laptop. I'll try some experiments when I get a chance this evening. Does anyone think this might be the problem?

 

thanks

 

Ed

[dipsomaniac]

correct order should be connect lead to car, switch on ignition and start vag com. when you click on options then test you should see port status 'OK', interface 'found'.

 

if it doesn't work you can try disabling firewall.

[big_kev]

Its an issue with the drivers ( could possibly be a faulty lead but this is unlikely ).

 

Its not going to be an issue with a firewall !

[ed austin]

Success! (kind of).

 

I installed the same software and driver on a different laptop (toshiba), and it works fine! I can't for the life of me get it to work on my Dell Latitude D610. I suspect it's a USB current drain issue.

 

Thanks to all for your help.

 

Now I just need to actually fix my car...