lotusandy Posted August 1, 2007 Report Posted August 1, 2007 Hi All, Just replacing the pads on the rear of my 2003 Alhambra.Am I correct in assuming that both of the 15mm nuts that the caliper bolts to on the carrier should be free to rotate & slide in and out?On both sides of the car only 1 nut is free. I am assuming that they should both be free to slide and have just sized.Anyone have any ideas on how to free them up? If not any ideas on likley part number and cost.Thanks Andy Quote
insider Posted August 1, 2007 Report Posted August 1, 2007 I don't think any nuts or bolts should be free to move. The caliper should be securely bolted to the anchor plate. The only movement should be from the piston within the caliper when the brakes are applied / released. Quote
lotusandy Posted August 1, 2007 Author Report Posted August 1, 2007 The design is such that the caliper needs to slide slightly when the brakes are applied, as there is only 1 piston. This sliding is achieved on the 15mm sliding nuts things that the caliper bolts to. (At least this is how i understand it!) Really was hoping for advice how to unsize the sliders. Thanks Andy Quote
Bigjeeze Posted August 1, 2007 Report Posted August 1, 2007 Once you have removed the bolts you could try tapping with a rubber mallett - It's likely that the caliper body is sorroded on the slides - Once you do get it off try cleaning with a wire brush and then a very small amount of coppaslip or similar should help it to stay free. Quote
marzypanman Posted August 12, 2007 Report Posted August 12, 2007 Once you have removed the bolts you could try tapping with a rubber mallett - It's likely that the caliper body is sorroded on the slides - Once you do get it off try cleaning with a wire brush and then a very small amount of coppaslip or similar should help it to stay free... hi there im having trouble with my rear brakes.. iv been beeped at and told that the rear lights are not working, so iv stoped and got out to check and they seen to work fine ,, then again people were saying my brake were not working ,, checking further , they did work but only if they where pressed hard whitch is no good if your slowing down as they are not lighting up any ideas ? cheers mark Quote
seatkid Posted August 12, 2007 Report Posted August 12, 2007 (edited) Brake switch is faulty FAQ fitting a new brake switch Edited August 12, 2007 by seatkid Quote
johnswlondon Posted August 12, 2007 Report Posted August 12, 2007 very interesting problem,i really dont know if you have one sliding pin or two.brace yourself for a big bill if the part has seized onto caliper bracket-must be about 60 minimum for the new bracket and sliding pin(s) and bellow(s) dont forget that when fitting the new pads you need to open the bleed valve at the same time as using a brake winding tool to wind the brake piston back into the caliper,because the new pads will need more clearance Quote
niallsan Posted February 13, 2010 Report Posted February 13, 2010 I had to change the rear pads today- one of them was worn down to the metal on the pad. One of the sliding caliper attachment bolts was seized- big time! Couldn't get it to budge- I think I bent it slightly from all the hammering, squeezing, twisting. I reckon that's why the inside pad was sooo worn, cause outside pad had a good few thou miles left on it. The inside pad was doing all the work because the caliper was not pulling in properly as a result of the slider seizure. Left an email with Traynors in Northern Ireland to see if they had a scrapped anchor plate- more money spent on this Galaxy! Not turning out to reliable I'm afraid. The list is getting bigger, 1)coolant temp sensor(covered under warranty tg!) 2) parking sensor module and sensors x2( Quote
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