Aircon Leaking Gas - Difficult To Locate Fault Found

[mikej]

Hi all just a little note to all you people who are thinking of looking at this filter /dryer leak , i was doing some work on the gal today and thought i would try and have a go at removing the black cap from the filter dryer to see if i too had the leak as i am slowly loosing gas . What i found was i was able to remove the cap no problem without removing the front bumper , simply remove the 4 screws from the top of the front grill and pull slightly forward no effort at all the cap could be removed with ease .This was on my 2001 gal mind unsure what is involved on other models.Anyhow i noticed alot of green coloured crust under the cap around the circlip but was unable to get any bubbles when the system was running or not , my aircon is running but is not very cold at all even after a recent regass .I know i am slowly leaking gas but no other signes of leak , is it likely to be this even though no bubbles etc and does it mean a full condensor replacement or could i get away with a new filter /dryer ? what would you people do and is your aircon COLD COLD or are they all like mind and cool???????? Edited July 14, 2007 by mikej

[Bigjeeze]

As Tim Spam says - A receiver dryer is the best part of

[tim-spam]

If when you have replaced the condenser, you find that the compressor is OK, may I suggest a quick word with Trading Standards about the garage diagnosing a failed compressor, etc?

 

Whilst I'm obviously not trying to claim that the aircon system is perfect (bcause it obviously isn't), I'm convinced that the system, at least on Mk2's, is not at all bad, with the condenser/receiver the only ongoing weakness. I strongly suspect that the vast majority of the 'sagas' with the aircon system fitted to Mk.2 Sharans/Alhambras/Galaxies are due to dealer incompetance leading to totally unnecessary replacement of expensive parts, then leading to further problems, failures, etc. For example, the dealer who 'finds' three fractured pipes - does anyone really believe this?

[Bigjeeze]

Can anyone advise?

 

 

My repaired pipe hasleaked again - although it seems to have resealed itself I have bought a new pipe. It goes from the compressor round to the bulkhead side - I have the new pipe complete with all necessary seals etc - but I can't quite work out (without stripping it down) how the pipe connects. It looks like it is a push fit possibly held in place with a bracket on the pipe. Anyone know?

[Biscuit]

Hi BigJ

these pipes usually are a push fit with a plastic washer type fixing to hold it in place

if they are connecting to another pipe

but dont quote me on that before you rip them apart :D

[sparky Paul]

Can anyone advise?

 

 

My repaired pipe hasleaked again - although it seems to have resealed itself I have bought a new pipe. It goes from the compressor round to the bulkhead side - I have the new pipe complete with all necessary seals etc - but I can't quite work out (without stripping it down) how the pipe connects. It looks like it is a push fit possibly held in place with a bracket on the pipe. Anyone know?

 

I know the mk.2 aircon system is not the same as my mk.1, but looking at the TIS the pipe in question (the fat one to the compressor) looks very similar.

 

The pipes on the bulkhead mounted expansion valves are removed by undoing the torx screw in the middle, this releases the block holding the two pipes in.

 

On the mk.1, the pipe at the compressor end is jointed with a springlock coupling - you need these to undo them...

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SEALEY-Air-Condition...emZ160124741065

 

Use new o-rings on reassembly, including on any other pipes that are disturbed, and lubricate with PAG46 oil.

Edited July 30, 2007 by sparky Paul

[Bigjeeze]

I know the mk.2 aircon system is not the same as my mk.1, but looking at the TIS the pipe in question (the fat one to the compressor) looks very similar.

 

The pipes on the bulkhead mounted expansion valves are removed by undoing the torx screw in the middle, this releases the block holding the two pipes in.

 

On the mk.1, the pipe at the compressor end is jointed with a springlock coupling - you need these to undo them...

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SEALEY-Air-Condition...emZ160124741065

 

Use new o-rings on reassembly, including on any other pipes that are disturbed, and lubricate with PAG46 oil.

 

 

Thanks Paul - I'll get a springlock for the bulkhead end - the compressor end on mine has a torx bolt.

 

 

It's really annoying as the air con is currently working beautifully! I'll post some pics of the relevant parts when I get round to doing it.

 

Cheers

 

BJ

[sparky Paul]

Thanks Paul - I'll get a springlock for the bulkhead end - the compressor end on mine has a torx bolt.

 

It sounds like you're talking about the bit at the front onto the compressor itself, I was talking about the bit which goes right back to the bulkhead under the wiper motor.

 

I'm just in the middle of doing mine, what a nightmare... will report back later... ;)

[p_devlin79]

Can anyone post up a photo or link showing the location of the condenser filter and the said cap and is it possible to check without strip down or does the bumper need to come off first?

cheers

mike....

Had this same air con nightmare on my 2003 galaxy 2.3 Zetec, upon inspection found loads of crud under drier cap this was after 2 regases. Working for nissan and having an idea how cars are made

I decided to remove circlip and drier cap, this can be done by putting an old screw into the opening and gently levering out, this can all be done by removing 4 spline screws and small grill with ford badge on, please note this can be difficult as it is vaccum tight (drier cap). I could see where the seals had failed, a new drier car was bought from europarts for

[andy m]

I have recently taken my car to my aircon guy and he has diagnosed my poor and weak system as a leak in the said affore mentioned area. now my question is; if I was to say repair the leaky condensor with as JB weld or areldite would it hold for a couple of years,

 

a bit of back ground. last year it was regassed and worked al the way up to winter. this summer I regassed it hoping for the same but only got a couple of days out of it before it stopped working then failed(ie flashed the climate control panel) (vacuum and pressure test revieled no faults) took it back and they went over it with a sniffer and found it only leaking from the top of the condenser/dryer.

my idea is to repair it(cheaply) and regass, if not then replace the part. what would be the best solution to seal the leak...??

 

 

andy M

[kreasey]

I have recently taken my car to my aircon guy and he has diagnosed my poor and weak system as a leak in the said affore mentioned area. now my question is; if I was to say repair the leaky condensor with as JB weld or areldite would it hold for a couple of years,

 

a bit of back ground. last year it was regassed and worked al the way up to winter. this summer I regassed it hoping for the same but only got a couple of days out of it before it stopped working then failed(ie flashed the climate control panel) (vacuum and pressure test revieled no faults) took it back and they went over it with a sniffer and found it only leaking from the top of the condenser/dryer.

my idea is to repair it(cheaply) and regass, if not then replace the part. what would be the best solution to seal the leak...??

 

 

andy M

I'm just in the middle of mine and having trouble getting the receiver dryer out of the tube its in.I squirted wd40 in the top and you can just see fine bubbles coming up. they're barely visible but thats enough to stop it working.I'll have to get it degassed to get it out or there will be gas/dye everywhere.

Going back to your problem I would replace the condenser for around

[electrosol]

This is a brilliant feed and all credit to other users giving of their time to assit others with similar problems. Having read this I have been able to find and rectify my Galaxy air con problems

[Ben g mon]

Replaced my condenser and drier plus the low pressure pipe for under £170 including the pag 46 oil , tools and new o ring seals (80p each from VW/Audi /seat /skoda TPS. And four hours of my time removing things and making access holes. Dispite using the spring decoupling tool I ended up chopping the low pressure pipe under the fibreglass drivers headlamp area and it pulled off ok with water pump pliers and a little force needed.

 

The drier cap is easy to remove on new ones with internal circlip tool and this was greased up to stop the alloy on alloy corrosion that causes leaks.

 

I found on mine the parts removed where 2002 dated so I have never had a condenser change, these are recommended for change as a service item every 2 years or when performance is poor

 

Condenser with drier; car parts for less

Low pressure pipe; new from Poland via eBay , good quality

Pag 46 oil; eBay, motor factors are 3x price I found

O rings; vag group TPS

Air con Spring clip remover tool; sealey tools

Internal circlip tool; halfords

 

Massive thanks for all the posts showing me how to do this, I've saved a fortune

 

Crossed fingers after a re Gas all will be well

[Ben g mon]

All re gassed, no leaks, compresser runs like a dream

 

If it wasn't for the threads on these type of forums I'd be poor now!

 

Total cost £220.....