Gal Is Sitting Down

[Galaxy_Quest]

Thanks for the help on the screechy brake pads.. it was a nightmare to get the pads and calipers off in the first place as I dont have a caliper screw / piston pushing tool :D

 

Right... the springs; here are the pics

 

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/9306/dsc00418in1.th.jpg

.... no broken spring !

 

http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/183/springshq5.th.jpg

... no broken spring and safely in its housing

 

http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/8189/dsc00420awc7.th.jpg

.... spring and hub all seem ok (but im no expert... please excuse the contrast its a sunny day)

 

 

So basically, its doesnt appear broken.

 

I trolley jacked up the Gal, took the wheel off and examined the spring. I put the wheel back on. When the Gal was fully lowered and jack removed the ride height was normal again! I opened the boot and bounced the right / drivers side corner up and down on the springs, I also tried sitting in it and bouncing up and down too. It felt normal / bouncy.

 

When I got out, everyone (Mrs and brother) and I could notice that the ride height had DROPPED again! By the time we parked the Gal infront of our garage, the height was back down again!

 

I dont know what's up?! Anyone please....... ???? :angry:

[El Dingo]

When I got out, everyone (Mrs and brother) and I could notice that the ride height had DROPPED again! By the time we parked the Gal infront of our garage, the height was back down again!

 

I dont know what's up?! Anyone please....... ???? :D

 

My guess is that you had the handbrake on, so when you put the wheel back on and lowered the jack, the locked wheels held the offside rear of the car up. When you released the handbrake and moved the car, the suspension was able to settle...

Edited March 21, 2007 by El Dingo

[Galaxy_Quest]

My guess is that you had the handbrake on, so when you put the wheel back on and lowered the jack, the locked wheels held the offside rear of the car up. When you released the handbrake and moved the car, the suspension was able to settle...

 

Sorry to be a dufus... you lost me? What dyu mean?

[El Dingo]

My guess is that you had the handbrake on, so when you put the wheel back on and lowered the jack, the locked wheels held the offside rear of the car up. When you released the handbrake and moved the car, the suspension was able to settle...

 

Sorry to be a dufus... you lost me? What dyu mean?

 

Go out and try this... chock the front wheels, handbrake off, jack up the offside rear. Now put the handbrake on (hard) and lower the car again. The car sits a little higher on that side, yes? This is because the suspension can only 'settle' fully if the wheel can rotate. :D

 

Edit: This doesn't explain why the car sits so low in the first place. It only explains why you seem to have cured it until you moved the car.

Edited March 21, 2007 by El Dingo

[Galaxy_Quest]

Go out and try this... chock the front wheels, handbrake off, jack up the offside rear. Now put the handbrake on (hard) and lower the car again. The car sits a little higher on that side, yes? This is because the suspension can only 'settle' fully if the wheel can rotate. :D

 

Edit: This doesn't explain why the car sits so low in the first place. It only explains why you seem to have cured it until you moved the car.

 

Mmmm,

 

The problem came about when driving to/from the garden centre on Monday morning. When we left it was fine. When we came home after an hour, the drivers side rear was sitting 4 inches lower and the suspension felt non-existant especialy when going over speed bumps near our house. We had a light-moderate load in the rear of the car.

 

Will try your idea but I dont think it will work because the drivers side is knackered despite the offside.

[El Dingo]

Offside = driver's side.

 

Don't bother doing what I said - it won't prove anything - except *possibly* why the car looked normal after you had jacked it up, then dropped again after you had driven it.

 

I think I'll go away and have a *think*. :D

[MrT]

Assuming that you are on a flat surface, if the back drivers side of the car is down compared to the back passengers side, the front passengers side must be up or the drivers front side must also be down, otherwise the whole car would be twisted. Take a look at the other corners and see which other one is not as expected and the problem could lie there.

[Galaxy_Quest]

Assuming that you are on a flat surface, if the back drivers side of the car is down compared to the back passengers side, the front passengers side must be up or the drivers front side must also be down, otherwise the whole car would be twisted. Take a look at the other corners and see which other one is not as expected and the problem could lie there.

 

Think i've clocked it.

 

Sometimes it is up... sometimes down. At the minute it is up / normal.

 

When I did the pads all round, I think I must have dislodged / misaligned the driverside rear handbrake cable. With the car in 'park', handbrake off, wheels chocked... I jacked that drivers rear side up. When I tried to spin the wheel the caliper / pad was grinding against the disc. It did spin but not freely.

 

So sounds like I have to copper grease all the pads / calipers and at the same time somehow adjust the brake on that side.

Does anybody know what I have done wrong in relation to the brake cable and how I fix it?

[El Dingo]

Avenger, are you anywhere near an independent VW or Ford specialist? It might be an idea to get the car looked at on a ramp, where it'll be much easier to find out what's causing the brake noise and the suspension issue. I'm not sure I'd recommend a Ford dealership, but a VW specialist will know the Sharan and this is a virtually identical vehicle to your Ford.

[tim-spam]

Another possibility is that the offside rear suspension damper is seized - this may explain your feeling of 'no suspension' on that side. When it appears to be 4" too low, try bouncing it at that side and see if you get any suspension movement.

 

By the way, did you use the genuine rear brake pads? If not, this may the cause of the squealing. If you decide to use copper grease, be very careful to only use a thin smear and ensure that none gets on to the pads themselves - otherwise braking efficiency will be reduced.

Edited March 21, 2007 by tim-spam

[Galaxy_Quest]

Another possibility is that the offside rear suspension damper is seized - this may explain your feeling of 'no suspension' on that side. When it appears to be 4" too low, try bouncing it at that side and see if you get any suspension movement.

 

By the way, did you use the genuine rear brake pads? If not, this may the cause of the squealing. If you decide to use copper grease, be very careful to only use a thin smear and ensure that none gets on to the pads themselves - otherwise braking efficiency will be reduced.

 

 

Hi guys,

 

Thanks for the advice so far :)

 

The rear suspension is "better" now... i think its related to the handbrake. When I bounced it on Monday it was down and no bouncebackability at all. the corner has been jacked a couple of times today and now it sits ok?!!!?? Weird huh!

 

I used generic brake pads which I bought from an eGay shop (

Edited March 21, 2007 by Avenger

[mumof4]

well...25 quid for pads all round is way toooo cheap for my liking.

[tiny]

well...25 quid for pads all round is way toooo cheap for my liking.

 

Thats in line with trade factor prices, whilst cheap pads may not be as good as OEM stuff in terms of lifespan or have the same antifade properties etc, they are still made to strict standards.

 

Look for E (E11)? markings on the back of the pads

 

Fitting cheap brake pads is little different to fitting cheap tyres

 

I would recommend checking they have been fitted correctly though, it IS possible to fit a brake pad backwards! (lining to piston) As I found out in my early years with my first capri!

Edited March 21, 2007 by tiny

[Galaxy_Quest]

Thats in line with trade factor prices, whilst cheap pads may not be as good as OEM stuff in terms of lifespan or have the same antifade properties etc, they are still made to strict standards.

 

Look for E (E11)? markings on the back of the pads

 

Fitting cheap brake pads is little different to fitting cheap tyres

 

I would recommend checking they have been fitted correctly though, it IS possible to fit a brake pad backwards! (lining to piston) As I found out in my early years with my first capri!

 

 

The pads were E11 rated and be assured they were put the right way around :) they were just a very VERY snug fit (i.e. needed convincing with a pin hammer and I had to take out the metal shoulders that were installed with the other worn out pads).

 

I think this is the screeching... the snug fit of the pads and their reluctance to "spring" in and out properly.

 

Anyone have any further ideas about the adjustment of the brake cable to stop the old Gal from sitting down? As I said, the caliper seems to tight as the wheel wont spin freely.

[Dave-G]

Argh - forcing pads into calipers is not good - My last set were too tight so I filed the sides of the backplate down and cleaned off the filings natch. They need to slide in and out without binding.

 

Try to find those 'clips again too. They are there for a reason - Contrary to some peoples beliefs. :)

[tiny]

I think youve got it there,

 

You know how if you drive along and pull the handbrake on to slow the car, the back end dips down? and likewise if you attempt to reverse with the handbrake on the rear end rises?

 

Well if one side of your rear brakes is binding then that side will be pulled down giving the lopsided apearance you car has. Going forward should pull down the side that is binding and in theory reversing should force that side up! Are you sure that the drivers side is low or is it the passenger side is high after revering into a parking space?

 

I think you need to remove the rear pads again and refit them making sure you the piston retracts fully into the caliper and that you replace all shims or clips as these are fitted to eliminate squeal (often referred to as anti sqeal shims/clips) . Then make sure any self adjuster on the handbrake is moving freely. I have not had the brakes to bits on my Gal' so I cant be precise with instructions.

 

If you do this and make sure that both sides are identical and parts that move on one side move on the other and also check the pistons retract to the same degree. Then I think you may just cure the problem. At the vey least you will have eliminated a few possibilities!

 

You should maybe rub the surface of the firction material on the pad with a bit of emery paper before refitting as a binding brake may cause the pad to glaze through overheating.

 

How do the pistons retract? Do they screw in or just push? You should always release the bleed nipples before you retract the pistons as you can damage the seals in the master system and ABS components if you dont.

[tim-spam]

Try Eurocarparts for your brake pads - they do the genuine ATE pads for a lot less than the dealers and they normally arrive within a day or two.

[Galaxy_Quest]

Try Eurocarparts for your brake pads - they do the genuine ATE pads for a lot less than the dealers and they normally arrive within a day or two.

 

Cheers for all the good advice so far folks!

 

So question: File down the pads to fit (which should take about 300 years) or buy new ones and the anti-squark clips?

[tiny]

Try Eurocarparts for your brake pads - they do the genuine ATE pads for a lot less than the dealers and they normally arrive within a day or two.

 

Cheers for all the good advice so far folks!

 

So question: File down the pads to fit (which should take about 300 years) or buy new ones and the anti-squark clips?

 

 

Just read through my last post, I sound dyslexic -No offence intended, just had a few beers last night :lol:

 

You dont need file the pads down, they will fit, if they do not then there is a problem somewhere. Check that the piston is fully retracted, and the handbrake is fully disengaged - not just the lever, but the self adjust mechanism too. How exactly does the handbrake engage? check that all moving parts move freely. The pads should be a snug rather than tight fit.

 

As I said previously I think the brakes are the problem, let us know how you get on.

 

PS, add your car to your sig.

Edited March 22, 2007 by tiny

[Galaxy_Quest]

Just read through my last post, I sound dyslexic -No offence intended, just had a few beers last night ;)

 

You dont need file the pads down, they will fit, if they do not then there is a problem somewhere. Check that the piston is fully retracted, and the handbrake is fully disengaged - not just the lever, but the self adjust mechanism too. How exactly does the handbrake engage? check that all moving parts move freely. The pads should be a snug rather than tight fit.

 

As I said previously I think the brakes are the problem, let us know how you get on.

 

PS, add your car to your sig.

 

No offence taken Tiny :)

 

Then it must be that the pads dont fit properly.. .they are far too tight. Removing and throwing away the anti-squeal clips was not too good an idea... my conscience was bugging me at the time - should have kept them just in case!!! I thought they were spacers :lol: I think I will take it to Fords or Kwik Fit to get the brakes seen to properly... its too much headache (or should I not give up... ive learnt how to do it now and bought a Trolley Jack !!! :lol:)

 

And... oh yes... I updated my sig... hope u like it folks B)

[Dave-G]

Nice sig.... My last pads came from an aftermarket supplier and were too tight. I put them in a vice and filed them down a couple of though each side. The fact that you were able to hammer them in at all means they are only a little too wide.

[daddyfixit]

done a 4 wheel alignment on mine today, training people how to use new equipment........ rear readings were out of spec, found drivers rear spring snapped at the bottom. the narrow diameter bottom coil has gone so spring sits lower onto suspension arm. if car is on an axle stand under sill (or 2 post lift) it seems easy to undo bottom shocker mounting and lever arm down to R&r spring. car has done 122k for 2000 tdi pd.

 

factors quoting 44---54 quid each, will do a pair as its getting on a bit.

[daddyfixit]

done spring this afternoon;

 

get both rear wheels off the ground or anti-roll bar will not let suspension drop down enough. i used axle stands on rear tubular beam and had a trolley jack under each sill as well. take off wheel for access.

 

remove 21mm bolt/nut from bottom of shock absorber, arm will drop a bit, then get loooooooong bar (scaffolding), to push suspension arm down and wrestle spring out.

 

replace new spring (different diameters at each end----watch this !!!)

 

lift arm up with a jack or assistant with said bar, refit bottom nut/bolt, refit wheel

 

time to change 1 spring about 25 minutes

 

used a factors in liverpool called autobits, 0151-523-9103 only 39 quid inc vat, doing other side next week as a treat!!!