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Posted

Does that mean that your engine coolant temperature reached 90 degC after 10 minutes? If this is the case, I would think that, either the engine was pretty well loaded or your booster heater was working. Either way, your car heater should have been working.

 

As a result of this thread, I felt the temperature of the air coming out of the vents on my car yesterday (ambient temperature 2 degC), and the air started to warm up before the coolant temperature gauge had moved much above 50 degC - long before the thermostat would have even thought of opening. Also, with the booster heater working well, it took at least 10 minutes for the coolant to reach 90 degC - if I switched the interior heating off, the coolant warmed up considerably more quickly.

 

It seems that there must be a problem with your heater controls somewhere - have you tried moving the control slowly from full heat to full cold and back again? You should be able to hear something moving and the sound of the air flowing through the vents should change slightly as well. Other than that, VAGCOM may help diagnose the problem.

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Posted
Just another thought - your problem could be caused by the water pump not working. It has been known for the plastic impeller to become detached from the shaft. The replacement water pumps have metal impellers. Unfortunately, if it is the water pump, it's a cambelt off job - if it's due, or nearly due, for a cambelt change anyway, the extra labour to change the pump is not very great so it would be worthe doing if there is any doubt.
Posted

Sooooo, if I buy a VAG COM lead off ebay, I'll be able to check the booster heater is enabled and if it isn't then I'll be able to re-enable it, unless of course it needs a new glow plug ???

I've been surfing on ebay and have seen lots of different variants of the VAG COM lead, shall I get the USB lead thats compatible with the latest software ?? :lol:

Posted

Tim

Thanks for your thoughts

Strange you should say about the water pump, as Bleeno put me in touch with one of his relatives, who is a mechanic at VW (Thank you for that Bleeno)

He called me last night, and after telling him the symptoms, he also said it may be the impeller that has broken.

The cars done 69,000 so i don't think cam belt is due yet

Not much more i can do now i think, so its into Fraud on Friday

Will post, to give the conclusion to this story

Thanks again

Posted
... be worthe doing...

... be worth doing...

I miss the edit button.

 

 

eit button is back..you have a limited time in which to alter a post before it vanishes again into a poof of white smoke.

Posted (edited)

...

I miss the edit button.

 

 

eit button is back..you have a limited time in which to alter a post before it vanishes again into a poof of white smoke.

 

Woop Woop! - I'm going to have to play with it now

 

EDIT: Hey whadaya know - it works

 

EDIT - And again - nice.

 

Not into POOFS... of white smoke

Edited by Dave-G
Posted
Dave, did Steve contact you last night? .. I havent heard anything m8

Yes he did thanks

Suggested maybe water pump, which is also what another post suggested

Thanks for your help

Regards

Dave

Posted (edited)
What temperature does the coolant have to be for the thermostat to allow waterflow through the radiator?

 

OE tdi stats are available at 87C or 102C 12v and 24v VR6 @ 80C, after market stats are available at lower temps!

Edited by wolfie
Posted
Just been onto Ford, who tell me it will cost
Posted
sounds lile there are assuming a drain down and refill of coolant as well as a new exhaust, you don't need to disconnect the coolant pipes or drain down in which case an hour is plenty, lets say
Posted
I agree with Nik - if you are reasonably adept with small handtools you will not find it difficult. Just be sure that your TORX drivers and other tools are good quality and clean out the rust from the screwhead sockets they fit in. It really is easy as long as you dont mind getting down on your back and knees in the cold.
Guest Cepheus
Posted
as long as you dont mind getting down on your back and knees in the cold.

 

Reminds me of the last game of Naked Twister I played ........... :rolleyes: ;) <_<

Posted
as long as you dont mind getting down on your back and knees in the cold.

 

Reminds me of the last game of Naked Twister I played ........... :rolleyes: ;) <_<

 

 

You owe me a new keyboard Paul for that!!..just splattered it with tea!!

Guest MATT jr
Posted

ok, just read this from the beginning.

 

it sounds like theres two problems,

ONE - the booster heater is not firing up, (95% of the time this is glow plug failure)

TWO - there could be a problem with the heater control vents - given little (no?) hot air is coming in, EVEN when the engine is hot.

 

davewill...i notice your in Newport, Shropshire - your only 23 miles from me, iv got VAGCOM, and will plug it in for you, to do a fault check on the heaters/boosters/flaps etc lol

 

we could meet half-way, just to do a fault code scan - which might help sort your problemos amigo

 

(you wouldn't believe the amount of spelling errors i made while typing this post!)

 

MJR

Posted
(you wouldn't believe the amount of spelling errors i made while typing this post!)

 

MJR

 

yes we would! :lol:

Posted

On the same topic......

 

Garage replaced my booster heater glow plug today; they are a family firm and they did this under their own warranty (bought car July last year).

 

However, it's still not working. They don't have VAGCOM, and I'm wondering if the fault codes need resetting (always assuming it was the glow plug - seems 90% likely).

 

I've read that you can reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for 15-20 mins - is this likey to reset the fault codes? I'm going to try this tomorrow, but if anyone can confirm this that would be great.

 

cheers,

 

Phillip

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