Vilius

What is a FJR? Yamaha bike? Off course there is another way with a 409.1 version :P

Blown fuse won't let electrical current go on the circuit it is connected, so the things depending on it won't work and that's all. It sounds for me, that you have a bad ground problem. Somewhere brown ground cable is broken, so the electrical current is not returning from the device to the car body, but goes through other devices, where is not supossed to go. After you switch heating on, the flicker - what sort is it? Is it green illumination goes on and off, or digital readings goes on and off? If the green illumination - I suspect a broken power cable to the rear window, which is on short circuit with illumination wires somewhere under crash facia, maybe the switch itself is the problem. VAG-COM may show what devices are shorted, but to find exactly where the problem is, you have to test circuits with voltage indicator. What about turbo - what sort of problem it was? And VAG-COM - just connect cable to the car and PC. Scan for all errors on the Sharan (7M) configuration. (addresses 01,02,03,08,09,15,16,17,18,19,22,25,29,36,37,39,45,46,55,56,76) Off course only one third at the best will respond, but it will bring error codes stored in ECU's.

http://www.ross-tech.com/ the site of GENUINE cable developers. It is USB-OBD2 connector cable with dongle for full version software installed. It plugs under asshtray in the center console. It would definatly work with TDI engine and VR6, because both of them are VW design.

Hello, I suggest you consider buying diagnostic VAG-COM cable, because with a PC it gives a possibility to find faulty part quicker. Instrument cluster itself is rather simple part of machinery. Everything it shows (speed, revs, temperature), comes here from sensors on engine, ECU's and so on. There are two connectors black and red, if you have a trip computer installed. If not, there must be only one connector. And BTW what is wrong with it? What faulty readings it gives? Speed, revs?

Hello, it's not a trouble at first, only a question if anybody measured what is the signal that comes to instrument cluster. I found out its pin 27 on the red connector, and ground wire is pin 7. But is this a voltage increase, when speeding up? Going to begin installing a DIY parking assitant kit, and there is a signaling wire to connect to speed indication. BTW, mine gal has a simple radio installed, no Gala wire is there. PS. is anybody done something with a similar DIY kit? I still didn't think of how to wire 4 front parking sensor wires from cabin to the front bumper with no drilling. Is there a easiest place to "penetrate" engine bay? Thanks in advance.

Changed this burnt control unit with another one from donor car. But another problem showed up - I can only get this blower to blow, only at max revs (5 bars from 5 on A/C panel), other settings just don't work. Checked resistance on this ground from blower cable, and found, that it's very high (my multimeter doesn't show it) on all settings, except max blast, when it shows 0 Ohms. To check if this control unit isn't faulty, checked voltage between this small control cable that comes from A/C panel and ground - so at max revs it shows 9.85 Volts, on other settings just zeros. Problem is in A/C panel itself. Is there any cheap method to fix it? Or look for another one taken from scrap car?

Well, in Lithuania there is snow (a few centimeters, not a big deal) and temperature is below zero Celsius. So Gal roars with it's auxiliary heater every time :blink:

Well, the faulty unit, which I'm talking about isn't a very cheap thing, so better someone sort it out is it really broken (I'm calm for mine, as there was fire on connections:) ). But to get it there is no big deal. I suppose you have a car with a right side wheel (sounds funny to ask in this forum, but I'm from Lithuania). So in left passenger side, you must take out this glove compartment. No need for screws yet, just open compartment and take it out, need some force, but not to brake anything on it. So with a Philips screwdriver there will be 5 screws to take out. They are at edges under glovebox, we took out. There is a plastic rectangular loop in the center where is the last screw. At the edge of all this plastic panel, there is a plastic fixator, which you must take out with a "minus" screwdriver and take out with fingers, no big force to save it ;) So all plastic panel beneath air bags eventually easily comes out, and all "entrails" of aircon and heating/ventilation unit are opened. There you can see blower with two pin connection (Black/red and White/red cords), and a red plastic box, which I think is the cause of your problem. It has 3 pin connection (small yellow, that comes from A/C panel; 4sq.mm Black/red that comes from blower; 4sq.mm Brown which is connected to the ground). This red gadget is connected to a evaporator compartment with a Torx screw. P.S. By writing this text, I think of yellow cord, that comes from A/C panel. Maybe it could be broken, so this control unit doesn't get a signal to slow down, and without control input, there is no resistance on blower's ground connection.

It's sounds like opposite problem to mine ;) If yours Gal have a electronic climate control as mine does, then blower is controlled by earth connection with a blower control unit. Mine was burned through, so blower itself had voltage on one pin, but no ground on other. In your case I think that the same red 3-pin control unit is faulty, but In this case it has a connection to ground, so there is no managed resistance to slow blower down, and it spins in max revs. At least you have working blower, and windscreen doesn't mist up ;) Mine until I'll find this unit is out of the game :D ECON is for saving fuel, it's like when you want to cool cabin down it won't engage conditioner at it's full power, so you might get a better mileage.

It's resistor pack for manually controlled blower, but models with electronic climate control have this one instead of it. And as resistor pack on wiring diagram is before blower, this control unit is connected afterwards and controls earth connection on fan motor. :rolleyes:

It seems, that a blower control unit is dead. VAG number 1J0 907 521, red gadget with a huge heatsink. Ground connector on it is burned through, and plastic around it is melted.

Will check resistance on this pack pins. But if I turn climatronic to full blast (all 5 bars illuminated), voltage on blower motor connector does not increase, it stays constant. So problem shouldn't be resistor pack.

Blower motor itself doesn't work. Mechanically it doesn't spin, because not correct voltage is supplied from climate control panel via relay (which one I don't know) and resistor pack near blower motor. A flashing panel shows that there is fault stored in ECU, not that a system needs a re-gas (but sometimes this could be that fault).

Yes, something similar to local climate. (Of course there is no selection for "not from UK" :rolleyes: )

Hello everyone, this summer I bought a 1999 Mk.1 Galaxy TDi with a Si trim, which came from France. It has a 81kw diesel AFN engine, and about trim - two zone climate control, cruise control, trip computer, only one conditioner in front but with auxiliary heater at rear (a garage neighbor owns a 1996 90bhp TDI, which doesn't have it) , new model seats (as on Mk.2), two of them heated, two front windows are electric. And some factory tuning - front and rear spoiler, plastic things (don't remember how they are called in English) on both sides beneath door with "Galaxy" stickers above them. Had only 5 seats, as some local fools in France took out middle and rear left seat before selling. So got to buy old model sharan rear seats to get all slots filled. I got it as a bargain, because she was difficult to start, engine cranked for several seconds, not as from a "half-turn" as it supposed to be, but problem was simple - faulty engine temperature indicator, but because of it nobody wanted to buy it. Of course it's for right-handed roads :(