Swede-4WD

I just changed all wires on my Gal-99 left rear door that had 3 wires working and the rest broken. Now everything electrical in the door works again :) Maybe the problem indicated in this post that you can not rotate the male connector on reassembl could be that you have inserted the locking ring so that the locking tabs enter the exectly fitting square holes on the locking ring. I did that at first and gor the same problem, but after going back to the FAQ posts I saw that the locking tabs should be the one that lock the whole lock ring and let it rotate. A tip if you as me replace many wires is to dismount the door side and the speaker to get mote room to work. A final tip if you cut all the wires or if they are already broken is that there are two Green/Blue wires to the central locking system and they can NOT be swapped since it will screw up the central locking. I had to solder them back and test the function and then change them cause you never guess right at the first time (as per Murhy's law). Most pin/color assignemt in left rear door (Steering on left side in the vehicle): Pin Color Area Sq.mm Function 1 Brown 0,5 ? 2 Not Connected Rear door entry lamp 3 Green/Blue (white dot) 0,5 Central lock locking motor 4 Yellow/Blue 0,5 Central lock dead bolt motor 5 Green/Blue 0,5 Central lock locking motor 6 Yellow 0,5 Central lock dead bolt motor 7 Not Connected Rear door entry lamp 8 Brown/White 0,5 Power window control 9 Black/Green 0,5 Power window control 10 Grey/Red 0,5 Power window control 11 Black/Yellow 0,5 Power window switch LED and control 12 Brown/Blue 0,5 Power window control 13 Green/Red 0,5 Power window control 14 Brown 2,5 Ground, Power window etc. 15 Yellow/Red 2,5 Power window module, Positive feed 16 Brown/Red 0,5 Power window control, Driver disable 17 Not Connected 18 Not Connected 19 Red (Twisted with 20) 1,5 Speaker 20 Brown/Red (Twisted with 19) 1,5 Speaker 21 Not Connected Note 1: Do not mix up pin 3 and 5 that are the same color. Note 2: There are different colors and functions in different doors

Hi, I just gone through a change of the rear wheel reluctor wheel (or ABS ring as it is also called) on my 4x4 from 1999 that has clocked up 17500km. First I must inform everyone that tries to find what reluctor wheel to buy for the rear axle that it is exactly the same as for the front axle. I bought mine on ebay for around

Thanks sepulchrave It worked with shorting +12v to Gnd and after restarting the car it stopped a few times before it started running clean. When entering VAG-COM I had to clear the codes for the power loss and the Idle Speed Regulation and since then there hasn't been any faults at all (30 minutes testrun with a lot of stops). Hope it stays that way. Will check again in a week or so. Anyone for an idea why the VAG-COM indicate the Readiness Status as: Exhaust Gas Recirculation: Passed Oxygen Sensor Heating: Failed or Incomplete Oxygen Sensor(s): Failed or Incomplete Air Condition: Passed Seconday Ait Injection: Passed Evaporative Emissions: Failed or Incomplete Catalyst Heating: Passed Catalytic Converter(s): Failed or Incomplete It has been this way for about 3 year, but all external meassurements of emmisions has passed both the workshops yearly service (and I specifically ask them to meassure this and I got back the data and an OK) and the yearly regulatory car inspection. I have an old printout that show that about 3 years ago the only failed Readiness was the Evaporative Emissions. Best Regs Tomas

Hi, I have changed both MAF and HEGO, but not shortened any terminals. The terminals you talk about is that +12v to ground on the battery leads? If so, how long will they have to be shorted to be sure the ECU will start relearning? What other things will start to relearn after this action? Is there no way to tell the ECU e.g. from VAG-COM that the ECU shall relearn? BR Tomas

Thank's Mirez I have exchanged the MAF and the Gal haven't had any unclean runs since that (4 days now). I also got a new HEGO since I saw it was recommeded to change it after 160.000 km and I am running up to it very soon. Any one knows if there are anything to do about the: 00533 - Idle Speed Regulation 14-00 - Adaptation Limit (Add) Exceeded Is there anything to trim here or is there some standard part that has to be exchanged. As I recall it I had the same sort of fault some years ago when she had been going aroun 80.000 km. To my weak memory the repair shop changed some stepping motor. Best Regs Tomas

Hi I have for a longer period had a growing problem with sporadic fault codes (from my VAG-COM) from the PCM indicating all sorts of sensor faults. (Beside that I have a constant fault "00533 - Idle Speed Regulation" that existed before these problems started. I have not yet come around to fix it since I have no problem with the idle speed or the emmisions at ideling.) With increasing number of fault codes the engine also starts to cut out when I have constant speed and revs around 1500-3000 rpm. As soon as I accelerate a bit the power comes back. When I reset all the fault codes the engine runs fine for a while until some codes come back (some new and some of the same as before). My only conclusion so far is that I probably have a grounding or power supply problem for the PCM, but before tearing half the interior and the dashboard apart to be able to get to the PCM I thought I'd ask you out there if you have had any similar problems. The car is a Ford Galaxy 1999 with VR6-2.8i, Automatic Transmission and 4x4 that now have just past 150.000 km. VAG-COM headig on all fault codes are: VAG-COM Version: Release 303.1 Control Module Part Number: 021 906 256 AE Component and/or Version: MOTRONIC M3.8.1 AT V01 Software Coding: 00001 Work Shop Code: WSC 00020 The fault history and codes look like this in cronological order with oldes on top: 16 Mar-09 2 Faults Found: 00533 - Idle Speed Regulation 14-00 - Adaptation Limit (Add) Exceeded 00525

I have now fixed the long time between gear 2 and 3 by having a gearbox specialist resetting the ECU back to deafult and learing mode. (I never got a hold of the VAG-COM login details for the ECU.) It took a few km before it all was back to normal. BR Tomas

Hi It's a 4-speed box without any tiptronic. Best Regs Tomas

Hi I have had my Gal-1999 2.8i VR6 4x4 Automatic about 4 years and the automatic gearbox have played some tricks on me for a while. At first it has gone into limp-along mode 3 times with some half year in between. I have trouble shooted this problem together with my repair-shop back to moist in the Auto ECU, which is said to be a standard problem. Initially I have had contact with the Auto ECU computer through VAG-COM, but that have stopped over time. After fixing the moist problem the last time I got a new problem that the gear shift from gear 2 to 3 and from gear 3 down to 2 is to slow (without any gear at all). This allow the engine to rev up for some half to one second when releasing 2:nd gear and before the 3:rd gear is in place and a sudden jump is felt in the car. If too much acceleration is applied a small squeeking sound comes from the gearbox as well. This can for sure not be good for the gearbox mechanical parts. I took it to a gearbox specialist some time ago and he said that it could be a matter of resetting the Auto ECU and let it relearn. Since I could not get in contact with the ECU by then I could not even try to reset it. I have now removed the Auto ECU and succeded to fix the problem with VAG-COM communication with the ECU. I have also tried to apply VAG-COM "Basic Settings" and driven around a bit after that in hope that the problem would fix itself. The gear change between 2:nd and 3:rd gear is however not fixed. The gearbox has VAGno: 099 927 733 AF and Component: AG4 Getriebe 099 4265 Soft Coding: 00000 and Shop #: WSC 00000 according to VAG-COM Anyone have any ideas about what can cause the gear change problem and how to rectify it? Anyone know if there are any settings possible to apply through VAG-COM (303.1 Shareware version)? Do I need to Login to change any settings? How could I find the password if that is needed? Best Regs Tomas