Godxyon

Tim-spam has kindly been advising, but I have just given and inspection a go and you may be able to get the cap off the condenser by prisng the left hande part of the grille. If the cap is loose (like mine) you can get it off with your fingers and have a looksie. If it is tight then the bumper cover/grille needs to come off to get a better look. But I was surprised how easy the cover is to get off (with the right tools of course) I have attached some pics and explanations to get access below. Bumper Cover: undo 4 x allen key screws in each wheel arch Remove 3 x pop fasteners holding the front lower section (get under front and have a look) On mine I needed to 'push' though the centre friction pin and the popper then dropped off Undo 4 x grille screws on top Wiggle like mad and the bumper cover disengages. Lower carefullly. Then disconnect the 2 fog light and front sensor elec connectors. Job done After I got the condenser/dryer cap off and it looked crusty alright. White aluminium type residue. I poured a little water in the top and guess what.....a stream of bubbles. Think I've found the leak :lol: So thinking this has to be changed, and while I was here anyway, I got off the bumper bar off to access the condenser fixings. (2 are accessible and 2 are buried behind the bumper bar) Bumper bar: 2 x 10mm spline head bolts each side 1 x T45 torx head bolt each side (both socket heads bought from halfords for the job, amazing what a squishey bluetac template and spotty faced teen assisstant can get you !) Compressor fixings: Carefully drill out 4 neat holes through the fibre glass radiator chassis. Very easy stuff to work in, and trim to neat finish with a stanley knife. Thought I made a good job of it. The drivers side holes with receiver/dryer tube are shown below. The next step is to work up the courage to change the condenser/dryer myself or get a garage to do. But at least I can reduce the garage bill by doing this prep work and reassembling as noted above. It took about 1.5 hour all in first time wrestling with the unfamilar fixings, but I know I can strip it down now for access in about 20 minutes. I am off to buy some O rings, oi and a new condenser. Reeeeeeaaalyyy hope this sorts my problem. Watch this space.

I am not sure how they tested it initially, but they recharged it (they said) and it all leaked out again. This was a while back though. Last week I took it to another garage who regased it again with 800grms of refridge't and put some tracer dye in. Unfortunately they could not find any evidence of a leak under a UV lamp. We then ran they system for about 20mins but air was still blowing warm. So we concluded that the compressor was not running. ie knackered. But in the end it was a guess on his part, as you say maybe switch, clutch etc. Fortunately he did not charge me for the work. (obviously thought he would recoup the time under his 10hr works quote) This is all why I am encouraged about the compressor tip and corroded cap lark. Sounds plausible to me. I am itching to have a look now. Problem is I suspect it involves bumper removal just to check as I could not previously get the grille off independently. Still nobody says life is easy. This all sounds like good solid advice (and thanking you or it) so will have a look at condenser cap pronto and report back. If I could get away with only a few hundres quids worth of work it would be a godsend..................oh nuts, maybe my hope has just jinxed it ! Fingers crossed and watch this space. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I'm a newbie........... I'm allowed to be stupid. [Galaxy 1.9TDi 2002 (51)]

Hi Tim-spam Yes sorry, I need to explain a few things. As usual the problem is one of those a/c mysteries where after injecting dye they still can't find a leak. But some previous posts here seem to suggest that it can leak under a plastic cover over the dryer on the condenser, as it seems to be a commonly experienced problem. So I am going to see if I can have a look, hense the quizing about how one gets it off...(I am just preparing for the worst) and wondering if I can perform some of the work myself. So far the local Fraud garage said that the compressor has failed and I have metal paricles in the system. They kindly said they would do the necessary work for 3.5k...................how sweet of them to go through such financial hardship for little old me. Now of course I do not know what needs doing yet, but as I understand it I very likely need to change the compressor (

The Ford TIG says that after removing the front bumper you need to remove, or at least drain and drop out the radiator so you can access the condenser fixings. An alternative method (and Fords approved apparently) is to hack off or through some fibre glass brackets or crossmembers (not sure which) so save draining/removing the radiator...............phew what a lot of potential work ! Does anyone know of an easier way or is this really the way. I note it is not mentioned in some of the post above. I have been doing some reading around, in fact thats why I joined the box, as I am having A/C nightmares and am still reeling from the prices being quoted by specialists for compressor and condenser/dryer replacement. Am told this is 10hrs work ! Is it really that hard and time consuming and can ones attempt this by ones self and then get it deep vacuumed and regased at the end only. Whats stopping me is the so called need for a 'system flush' before fitting the parts, I do not have the knowhow or equipment to know what this involves and what it really entails ? Can anyone advise here

Ok OK, I've had a think but am having trouble with some of the acronyms used here.............. VAG - Volkswagen auto group probably GSF - ? OEM - ? Please help out a newbie (aka: retard)

The front links have gone twice on my 2002 tdi. Each time ford EMG in Cambridge did them, once under warranty and once I paid 140quid odd ! I did not have the time to do myself. Is it a relatively easy job to undertake with a bit of care and common sense ?

Can anyone advise if it is required to have your system flushed when replacing a faulty compressor ? Fraud dealer said there was particles in the system. However as I understand there are always particles in the system from general wear but is it enough to cause a new compressor to fail. If flush is required how long/much should this cost and which components should be done? Oh, and what about a 'compressor guard'.............anyone used one to try and scoop up any muck before it gets to the compressor ?

I was told by a little birdie that this hacking of brackets method is quite commonplace so as not to remove the radiator when changing the condenser. I was told that this is a common practice so as not to need to remove the radiator as well, when needing to change the condenser.

Galaxy 2002 1.9tdi A/c system gone big time. I must have spoken to about 15 different garages and specialists now who (when they seem to know 'anything' about a/c problems at all) condem the Galaxy/Sharan/Alhambra a/c design as total sh** ! Two specialists point blankly refused to work on them as they said they kept coming back with problems so caused more headaches and cost than was worth it. Fords had the nerve to ask for 3.5K to do the work !!!!!!! Most people will not 'quote' but want to charge an hourly rate, plus mark ups on parts. Eg recon (with no warranty with work) 350 against new compressor 700 (with warranty) and these do not cover fitting. I think I am going to have a breakdown trying to find someone who for a start gives the appearance of knowing what they are talking about, does not want to retire on their fees and will guarantee it for at least a year. The last a/c garage I took in to asses said they had never doe a system flush before and felt it was a myth.............................where do these people live............Mars!!!! I have been told to chanage the - Compressor, receiver/dryer, condenser, pipe with silencer, expansion tank, flush the system and have a compressor guard............so thats a total new system then is it? Does anyone else feel it is not worth it for the short time the system may last before eating itself again ? I will either repair and sell the car within 12 months or sell broken as is and take the loss but not the headache, as life is too short. I bought the car new with a mind of keeping for at least 8-10 years or until our kids had grown, I am not in a situation to spend this sort of money on cars every 3 years. But I have totally lost faith in car and am just dreading waht will happan next. I havent mentioned about the blown torque converter last year for 1500 quid have I. As I understand it I only have the engine to go for the complete disaster trio set (gearbox, a/c, engine) .................. next time I will buy a Toyota without question. Bitter, bitter, bitter, bitter, bitter........................but I feel a little better now. Have a nice day