Jim

The wipers on 'er indoor's Gal have been just about going on full speed for a while. Today I finally got around to fixing it. The drivers side spindle came out not problem. Passeneger side required a vice and a bit of pulling and hauling. Once both were out, spraying some WD40 and 2-3 turns they were both moving freely - the real effort seems to be getting the spindles out. Anyhow, a bit of a clean and some copper grease and everything seems to be more or less working normally. It still sticks the odd time on intermittent wash, but the windscreen is bone dry (sun is shining in Belfast today!) so that probably doesn't help. Thanks to all the contributors for their help.

Thanks again NikpV Looks like these key things come in handy! Jim

What key? :D I assume they are talking about the one and only key for the lock - the one that my wife lost? I shall have a go in the next day or two and hopefully will be able to remove it without the key! I'll try and have a chat with the locksmith when I'm there on Thursday (hopefully) when he's cutting me another remote ignition key. Yes, my intention is to give him the handle and HE will remove and repin the barrel to my ignition key. He did mention having to break something to get the barrel out of the handle and then get a replacement part from Ford to fit it again?

Cheers - yes definitely front door. Need to get something done with the barrel

Maybe I have to remove the door card to disconnect the lock somehow. :blink:

Cheers NikpV Looks complicated stuff - :blink: When I loosen screw 1, is it likely to fall into the door frame never to return? Also, what is part 3? This is good news as it looks like I don't have to remove the door card after all ! OH! Just spotted. Is this for the front door? Does the lock/barrel not attached to something?

I've search for over an hour trying to find this! How do I remove the exterior passenger door handle on a Mk II ? I have to take it to a locksmith to have the lock repinned to the same as the rest of the car. There is a torx screw on the side of the door, but removing it didn't seem to acheive much? I did find the door card removal thread, so I know how to do that if I have to.

I shall ban the use of the cop holders! Only things is, how do I enforce it when I'm in my passat (with the cup holders stupidly positioned below the radio). :lol:

I have the same thumping into 3rd gear. This only happens when the car is cold AND when accelerating a little harder than normal (both together). Having said that it is easy to reproduce when cold. Problem is, that by the time I get to a ford dealer the car has warmed up and changes are fine. They've looked at it a few times and tell me nothing is wrong, but I've also been told that certain mechanical problems willnot show up on the diagnostics? Other folk who are having this trouble. 1. Has anyone managed to get it resolved? 2. Does it only happen when cold, or on every 2nd --> 3rd change?

I would just like to congratulate whoever it was in the Galaxy design team that decided it would be a good idea to have cup holders above the radio (and other electical switches etc). After my wife told me the radio was behaving funny, I looked and found the front of the radio sticky - this was shortly after her visit to McDs with the kids. Thankfully it has now dried out and seems OK.

I like two blind spot mirrors for my Gal! These should come as standard.

They should initially beep once or twice when reverse gear is engaged. Then as you reverse towards an object, the beeps should get closer together, until eventually you get so close that it becomes a single constant beep. Hope thats what you meant in your question? Not that if you are a few metres away from anything, they should not beep at all after the initial couple of beeps. (I think the initial beeps are just to let you know they are working). Does your mate have a towbar fitted - some of these can confuse the sensors?

Hi Nimrod. My intentions is to use the spade/bayonet fittings inside the car in the cubby hole you describe. I am thinking of soldering some cables about 8 inches long onto the "circuit board" and then connecting these to the 7 core cable fed into the cubby hole from outside. Sorry if I had not described that clearly. I am trying to avoid cutting into the existing cables if possible, so that in the event of other electrical problems, the towbar electrics can be removed without trace - I want to remove a get out clause for my fraud protect warranty. :lol: How did you get the 7 core cable into the cubby hole you describe? At the moment, any trailer/light boards I have do not have fog lamps, so the wire would be redundant, but thanks for the tip anyway. Thanks, Jim

Unfortunately there is no socket in the rear of post facelift Gals. I know what you mean about scotch locks - I am not a fan either, but the area is limited for space to work in. I think what I may do is solder wires directly onto the "circiut board" of the lamp housing - where the bulbs plug into to. I will then connect these wires to the towbar electrics using bayonet and spade fittings. This definitely means there will be one (should be two) also coming from the passenger side of the car for the indicator (and side light). Is there any access to the passenger side indicator wiring from the driver side?? As for access into the car, the vent does look like an option, but this would mean the vent being left partially open with the wire in it. Will this cause a problem? Is there another way in, or does anyone know how the ford towbar electrics gain access to the car? I think I will just skip the wire for the fog lamps.