Paul B

Thanks for that. I will have to consider trying another one on it. I really want to keep the car, have had it 5 years and am quite happy with it. Could this weaken one bank and not the other do you think? "Specialists" had ruled out the MAF entirely and say if it goes, it just affects the whole lot! They have all remarked that it's working perfectly. Well, clearly something isn't. I have tried to clean the MAF which makes no difference. When unplugged it runs no better, so I also had ruled it out. Obviously cleaning a dud MAF will make absolutely no difference, but I would suspect it to possibly run "better" when disconnected if this was the problem? I know that's the scenario I've read about on here with Diesels, but don't know if petrol is the same? Paul

Hi Does anybody have any ideas on this fault code please? Any advice would be most appreciated, it's driving me mad! 17560 - Long Term Fuel Trim Additive Air Bank 1: Range 2: System too Lean P1152 - 35-00 - - The fault with the car has been juddering between about 1300 rpm and 2200 rpm, in Neutral and stationery. When you drive the car, the fault is amplified and seems to occasionally get really bad (when the car is fully loaded) and sometimes is less noticeable. The car has an LPG conversion (2 years old, 20K since) and up until this fault developed I have had no problems with it. The Secondary Air Injection also seems to fire up occassionally on idle when the car is hot. Usually when I bring the revs down to stop at a junction. It doesn't do it all the time. Both these faults started around the same time, so must be linked. So far I have paid 2 specialists to find this fault, both have failed and tell me there is nothing wrong the car! One suggests new engine mounts, but this wouldn't illuminate the engine light? I have replaced the coil packs, pre-cat Lambda sensor, replaced the plugs 3 times and removed the inlet manifold to check for inductions leaks (not as bad as it looks) as well as compression checking each cylinder. Oh, and I've also changed the Electronic Throttle Body for another one, which made no difference either (was a real pig to work out how to get it to talk to the throttle pedal!). The engine is as quiet as ever with no knocks or rattles, uses no oil or water and is not using vast amounts of fuel either. It has loads of acceleration as it has always had. The above fault code has only recently started to appear in the computer, so I'm guessing it has something to do with it! It appears that the engine is out of balance for some reason. Does this code suggest that 1 bank is weaker than the other? If so, surely this could well be my problem as the engine would run out of balance? If so, how do I rectify it please? Has anyone had this and managed to cure it? It's a 2002 2.8 v6 Auto with 79K on the clock. Advice really appreciated as the car's going to be scrapped soon!! I'm getting fed up with it.

Does anybody know anything about Secondary Air Injection Pumps? Mine is turning on intermittently on idle when the car is hot. I hear a relay click in the dash, then rough idle for a few seconds - during which I can hear the SAI Pump running. What sends a signal to it telling it is required? Is there an Air Temperature Sensor somewhere for it - perhaps built into the MAF? I have been to 3 auto electricians (2 vw specialists) and nobody has found it yet as no fault code appears and apparently all sensors are working fine. Any ideas? Thanks. Paul

Unbelievable! I too have been trying to cure this exact same fault for weeks now. I have spent nearly

Today's update! I disconnected the Lamdba Sensor to see if the car ran any better, it made absolutely no difference to my problem. So far I have: Replaced the Plugs Replaced the Air Filter Replaced a Coil Pack (moving it across all 6 in the hope of finding a dead one) Disconnected the MAF Sensor - Car ran no different Disconnected the Lambda Sensor - Car ran no different. It is still quite juddery and appears to misfire. Very occasionally it idles rough too, but when it does, I hear a relay click somewhere in the fuse box, 5 seconds later it's normal again. I'm not sure if this is connected, as it appears to be running on 5.5 cylinders a lot of the time, but not all of the time. I'm wondering whether it is still the MAF Sensor, the ECU or a burned out Exhaust Valve in the Cylinder Head (last resort). I don't understand why no fault code comes up. I have the basic version of VAGCOM, if I upgraded to the licenced full version, would this give me access to more fault codes? I presume that I should already be able to see all fault codes with my version, but just have less access to other areas on the car? I would really appreciate any ideas or comments. I love the car and don't want to scrap it just yet, but it's crossing my mind now.

Hi Now for an update! I picked up the new Coil Pack today and have gradually swapped across all 6 cylinders, in the hope that it would fix it. Nothing!! No difference whatsoever. So either it isn't a Coil Pack, or it's in the wiring going to one of the Connecting Plugs to the Coil Packs. My feeling now is that it probably isn't a Coil Pack at all. Lambda Sensor perhaps? If I unplug that, I should find out I think. If it runs better, I'll have found it. Are there many problems on MAF Sensors on Petrols, I know the Diesels suffer. If so, surely it would show a fault code? Any ideas? No Fault Code showing, intermittent idle problem and rough running (appears to be missing) 1300rpm upwards. It's driving me mad! I'm even wondering if it's in the Engine itself now, perhaps I need to do a Compression Test, but I don't think these engines normally give up at this mileage? Any suggestions welcomed, apart from put a match to it! Thanks. Paul

Thanks Dave. I think after the Coil Pack, I will head there next, Lamdba Sensor too. I feel it is on the ignition circuit somewhere, but I may be wrong. It may even be more than one Coil Pack, but I thought at least if I tried one, which I can move across all six cylinders a bit at a time, I would be able to either cure it or eliminate them as being the fault. Awaiting delivery of Coil Pack. Hoped it would be here today, but it's not. MAF Sensor is my next thought. Thanks. Will keep you posted. Paul

Hi I have a 2002 2.8 V6 Galaxy. I have had it for about 5 years, more or less problem free. It has done 73K and I have noticed that it is misfiring occasionally. I have put it onto Vag-com, but nothing appears as a fault code. So last weekend I changed the plugs, which were a year old and replaced the Air Filter, as routine servicing, in the hope this would improve things. However, it has not. The Coil packs are about 2 years old and have covered 16K approx. I had these replaced when I had the LPG Conversion fitted, and it has run fine ever since. I suspect that one of the Coil Packs is faulty, so have ordered one to try and see if it makes any difference. I'm just looking for ideas really. Has anybody else had a similar problem and managed to cure it? I first noticed that the idle was getting worse on both petrol and gas. Most of the time it runs on 6 cylinders and because it is so intermittent it is not illuminating the Engine Management light, like it would if a Coil Pack went completely. When it is idling roughly, I hear a relay click in the fusebox, then it idles badly for about 5 seconds, before returning to all 6 and idling normally. It doesn't always do it, but it is getting more frequent. As soon as I hear the relay click, I know it's about to idle roughly. I'm not sure if something is compensating for a dodgy coil pack which may be causing it to misfire so intermittently, hence the relay click? Also, when revving the engine around the 1300 rpm, it is quite juddery and is quite noticable when driving. You can distinctly hear it missing if you stand behind the car, by listening to the exhaust. It seems to miss throughout the RPM range, but intermittently. Noticably worse though in the lower range. I thought it was the front bushes to start with, until I noticed the engine juddering whilst I revved it without it being under load. Any suggestions? Thanks. Paul

Hi, if it's a Mark2 there are 6 fixings. 4 Bolts, 2 placed either side just in front of the wheel, and the others just behind. Then there are 2 nuts further back, near the centre either side of the exhaust. Just make sure, when you put it back on, you put the front lip of the tray in properly, otherwise like me, you'll have to do it twice! PaulB

Hi. Thanks Kev, well explained. I know the difference between a 9/25 pin serial port and a usb! But your explanation should be simple for all to understand! Thanks. PB

Happy Birthday MO4! Does that make you a Scorpio, with a sting in your tail? Just checked my dates, not quite! Phew. Have a good day, looking forward to reading lots of slurry posts tomorrow, don't eat too much cake. From FO1, catching you up at 33 next month! Aargh! My neighbours reckoned they were the original binge drinkers (nearly hitting 40 now!), until they realised binge drinkers stop drinking in between!! Enjoy what's left of it now. :16: PB

Hi, don't fight folks!! Calm down! LOL I checked that the USB port was set to COM2, as suggested by the instructions (not 5??), and downloaded an XP driver from a link in another thread on here. Went out to car, and it worked straight away. Even picked up on a fault code I didn't know I had! Now all I need to do, is see whether my MAF fault re-occurs to see if I've cured it! :16: Thanks anyway folks. A problem shared..... and all that.... PB

Scrap that!! Finally done it. Fixed. Fault code cleared. Job done. Thanks. PB

Hi Radiotwo. I bought the lead on E*&y, and it came supplied with the driver. I had tried to purchase from Ross Tech, but couldn't find the lead, let alone the price on their website! I had read that others had bought similiar to me, and that theirs worked fine. I have followed the instructions that came with it, ie making sure the USB serial port is set to Com 1, 2, 3 or 4. (2 in my case). It connects through and says the interface is ok, port connected ok. I'm not convinced v704 works, as it does even less with this loaded onto my pc! It just rejects it all completely. I have only seen mention of 409 on here, I've been reading about this on here for weeks! Thought it would be easy, but i'm sure i'm missing something simple. Any help/ideas appreciated. Many thanks. PB

Hi all, Recently went on holiday (1500 miles) during which the Engine Management Light came on. Called out AA, who checked the fault code and found it was P1152 (MAF related). He reset the light, and it disappeared for several miles, before re-appearing. The car runs fine, with no loss of power or mpg. I have fiddled about with the MAF since returning home, and now want to reset the Engine Management light, to see if I've cured it or not. So I have purchased an ODB2 lead (usb variety), and downloaded VAG 409.1 from Ross-Tech. The lead seems to connect through to the car, but it questions which vehicle I'm searching (which chassis). I have selected VW Sharan, and Seat Alhambra, but it just continously searches eventually finding nothing. On connection, the computer says it's connected ok (through COM2) which I've tested and saved, but I am unable to get any further. Which selection do I need to make from the Chassis Menu? Surely it should be either Sharan or Alhambra? Any ideas? Any help would be appreciated. I am running XP on my Acer Laptop. Many thanks. PB

I have ran a v6 Galaxy for the last 6 years. One piece of free advice for you is, try and get one with LPG if you can, or have it converted to LPG. I had my current one done earlier this year, and it's great! The conversion cost

If you have time, try just taking the bumper off. It's amazing how much more room you have, and it might just help you access it better. It is really simple to do, and if it's no use then you can just put it back on again. I too didn't want to have to remove the Condenser and Radiator, this would have entailed a lot more work. I guess I was just lucky. I thought taking the bumper off was a major job, so I kept putting it off until I could no longer. Now it's been on and off about 6 times in all! It's so easy. I had just never came up against the fixings underneath, as on the TIS disk they're called "screws", but they're nothing like screws! It took me ages to figure it out, but once I realised you just push the centre pin through, I was laughing! Let us know how you get on. Ta PB

Hi, measure the Centre Vent Temperature with the Air Con set to Low on Recirculate on the air to centre vent mode. Test these with the Air Con on and Off. You should notice a considerable difference in temperature. When mine went wrong, my Centre Ventre Temperature (Climate Control) was warmer with the Air Con on than with it off, and I had to replace the Compressor, which cured it straight away! The Vent temperature would rise once the Engine got hot, to about 28C! It's now at 5-6 C with the Air Con running at it's coolest. I tried everything, believing it was not the compressor, but it proved me wrong in the end. If your car doesn't not have Dual Air Con, then the amount your car will require will be the lowest value shown. I presume from the figures you show, it's a Mark 2? Thanks.

Presumably your working on your Mark2? When I did my Air Con work (Compressor Replacement) I took off the Bumper (5 minute job) and Underside Cover (5 minute job). I have tried to attach a photo of what you will see with the bumper off, but I'm not sure whether it's going to come out! Basically, undo the 3 hex scews in front the wheels (joins bumper to Wheel Arch Shield). Then undo hex screws on small front grille edge (with bonnet up, looking at the small grille with the Ford Badge on it). Jack the car up slightly, or place on ramps. Next, underneath you will see 3 fixing brackets spaced evely across the bumper. Using a Mains Terminal Screwdriver, push the centre pin through these making sure you see where it lands and pick it up, then remove the outer ring which is the fixing for the bumper. From memory, the one on the N/s is awkward to get to. You can push the centre pin through a hole, but it's awkward to retrieve the outer ring. Then with some help, pull the bumper forwards evenly on each side of the bumper just in front of the wheels. The bumper will then slide forward and you can lay it on the floor and disconnect the Fog Lights and Parking Sensors. With this off, there is loads of clearance under the car. You can access the High Pressure switch and some of the pipework, as well as the Condenser and the Dryer, should you need to. There's so much room with this off, that I didn't even need to jack the car up to take the compressor off and on again! Refitting is reversal of above obviously, but when replacing the underside Bumper Supports, you just place the outer ring in the hole and push the centre pin back in. If the pics don't come out, I can always email them to you if you wish. To remove the Underside Tray, just locate the four bolts holding it on, two nuts at the rear, and two bolts at the from if my memory is correct. You'll see them, there easy to find. I didn't even have to jack the car up to do this either with the bumper off. If you're opening up the system then you should always replace the Dryer. It's an absolute pig to get out, if you want info and Pics on this, I can give them to you. After experience though, if you're going to change this, buy it from Ford. Cheaper ones are around, but you only get the Dryer in these. The Ford one, apparently, comes with all the replacement O Rings. Wished I had done this, but didn't realise at the time. It's about

Well, once had a hell of argument with the Mother-In-Law about this. Who to this day believes that on a 3 lane motorway, the Left Hand Lane is for Lorries and Slow Moving Vehicles! The Middle Lane and Right Lanes are for Cars only! I tried to explain, drive in the Left Hand Lane only, the other 2 lanes for Overtaking ONLY! Move back when you're past!! Well!! That did it! I can remember being really angry at the time, especially when it resulted in a Cigarette Burn in the Passenger Seat of my immaculate Ford Escort!!

If it costs you that each year, from what I've read on here, it will probably be cheaper than most people have paid!! Not really the answer though. You must obviously have a leak somewhere unfortunately. Don't know what this "noise" is you talk about? Where's it coming from? Glove Compartment side? They all make that even when working, well just when you switch it off. The Air Con blokes moan like hell about Kwik-Fit, and usually say "why don't they stick to fitting tyres?". I'm quite impressed by it, though at the time it didn't work for me. With more and more cars having Air Con as standard, there is a need for this, and they're pretty helpful as a rule. So they aren't able to undertake major repairs, but if your systems working but not as efficiently as usual and you just need a top up, it's great. Though most people don't even think about having a top up until it stops!

Yeah!! Agree with that too! Don't get me started.....Middle Laners as well.......Grrr!

Cold air helps me breathe better in my Galaxy, does this count as part of this thread? :P Yours will be the only Veccy on the Galaxy stand then eh? Should be easy enough to spot! Will there be 2 chairs in the boot to make up the extra seats? <_< It's not a V6 LPG is it??

Glad it's not just me it happens too! Caravans, Trailers and the neighbours Dog in the Fast lane (3 laned Motorways). What idiot came up with the idea of restricting HGV's to 40MPH on single track roads, when the rest of us, usually travelling behind for miles are allowed to do 60?? Here in Norfolk, most of the damn roads are single track anyway! I know this frustrates Lorry drivers just as much too!

Oh, and weightless too please! Anway, Veg Oil/Diesel Mix is supposed to be bad for Common Rail Diesels too, it's not recommended at all. Only any good for old Oil burners? Not sure how true this is.