supersoda45

No Don't shut up, I never tell people to shut up when they are telling me something which could be important, and you are right tow starting is not really a good idea it was a last grasp desprate effort on my part!!! I took all the plugs out and one of them was destroyed at the electrode end there was nothing left of it, it was obvious something was hitting it. I put new plug in and........ Still and no change it's still like school custard thick and lumpy. :( Being a nice day today I took the head off (what a tedious long winded job on this V6!!!!!!) and my big problem has just got BIGGER B) Seatkid you where right and wrong the chains a perfect, but I do need a new engine, some idiot who had the gal before put one of the plug in to tight and it looks like it has been making contact with the piston has the piston crown now has a hole the size of a 1p piece in it. I might see if I can just change this one piston if not o'well it's lot's of hard work to come over the next few weeks :wacko:

UPDATE TO MY V6 PROBLEM I've fitted a new starter motor and guess what........ the same thing happens, this brings a whole new meaning to 'clunk click everytrip' I get CLUNK CLONK, GRINDING THEN TICKING NOISES. Here's the good news....... But after towing it around the local roads for a mile using a van it starts well almost :blink: No the Bad news........ It runs very lumpy for a few seconds, has no response to the throttle then goes pop then dies then exhaust smoke or blue smoke comes out of the airbox !!!!!!! :wacko: I think I have a problem somewhere but where anybody have any ideas Please pretty please

If the car if vibrating under idle it could be your engine mount(s) are worn, the veccy I had was smooth and quite when idling. There should be approx 1 inch between the crossmember and downpipe. If you are felling brave, with the front of the car up on the ramps lay on the floor and get as far under the car as you can then with the engine running get someone to press the throttle peddle to the floor putting engine under full load. Don't keep the peedle pressed to the floor keep blipping it up and down. Watch the downpipe to see if it is making contact then watch the engine it should not move (backward and forward) by much only approx 1/2 inch. As with the handbrake it needs adjusting, there should only be between 3-5 clicks till it fully engaged.

Before sending you the manual I had a quick look in the exhaust section and I beleive there is only a manifold bracket on the 1.8 and 2.0lt DOHC models and I doubt it's the manifold thats gone, when manifolds fail they make a worse noise than a rattle and you lose power. I tend to agree with seatkid it looks like the down pipe it hitting the cross member (the big bar that runs across the car left to right above the cat), if you look at the second picture down (620.81k picture size) you can clearly see on the cross member above the cat, markings where something been hitting it. Take it back to the garage where the cat was fitted and get them to adjust it, if it was done in May you are still covered by trading standards law.... The sales of goods act 1979 (as ammended by the sales & supply of goods act 1994 and the sale & supply of goods to consumers Regulations 2002). Basicly what this means is that the garage who sold you the downpipe/cat should ensure it's of satisfactory quality, fit for the purpose and as described. If it is the exhaust that is rattling the fitting in definatly not satisfactory quality and it's definatly not fit for the purpose so you are legally entitled to ask for a repair or replacement free of charge. If the garage tells you "sorry madam it over 4 weeks can't do anything" anserw back saying "The sales of goods act 1979 etc etc gives me resonable time I want a repair / replacement which is my rights NOW" consumer law's definition of reasonble time in asking for repair or replacement is upto 6 months so you have till November.

That rules out the dying cat then (no need for a vet then!!! :angry2: sorry it's early morning) As seatkid said it could be the heatshield or I've just checked the haynes manual and the front pipe it secured by two sring bolts one of these might be loose. As for the rust the best thing to do is jack up the car preferable with all 4 wheels of the ground put a pair of rubber gloves on, lay under the car and get stripping with a wire brush and then slap on a thick layer of waxoyl underseal which should kill the rust and protect it from future rust. If you have any big patches of rust before applying the waxoyl first gentle prod them with a screwdriver if the screwdriver does not go through you will be ok if it does then you have a problem, you will need a welding torch. BUT the good news is I don't think you will find any horror stories because if she had an MOT in may they would of found them then and she would not have passed the MOT.

Hi mumof4, I forgot to mention on my reply to your post you mentioned about finding a Halfords to get a Haynes manual for your Vectra, well if you haven't brought it yet and you still require one I have a copy you can have for free. I used to own a Vectra till she had an argument with a lorry and lost!!! (not my fault). :angry2: the manual is just sitting in my book case gavering dust so it might as well go to a new home were it will be of use, it covers you car and year 1995 N to 1999 S. If you do require it send me a message somehow and I'll post it to you.

Hi, The noise you describe sounds like the cat might be 'dying', if it's still the original cat which makes it 10 years old the ceramic layers inside the cat start to break up and come loose resulting in the 'ball bearings in a can' noise if left to long like this it can result in a blocked cat causing poor running. My V6 Gal had the same problem and died on me on the A1 in Northhampton on the way home to Farnborough one evening she spent the next 3 hours on the back of an AA truck.

Good point El Dingo, I am going to register my 'free' copy of vag-com next week as the exchange rate is good at the moment being $99 dollars to register making it only

If the unit was repaired and regassed by a non 'fraud' dealer they may not have cleared the fault codes generated from the fault which is now fixed. Even if a fault is fixed it will still flash until the fault code is cleared apparently. Take it back to the dealers who told you there is no fault and ask if they have cleared all the fault codes from the system if they haven't (They do forget as my local dealer inchcrap ford did!!!) get them to do it. If it still flashes after clearing the codes then there IS a fault if the dealers still say there is no fault demand to see a print out of the diagnostic report, by law they can't refuse to show you. Here's a tip for you to give you some ammo to fire at arrogant dealers who think they can fob off innocent people, if you have a laptop - Invest approx

Hi Seatkid, Thanks for your reply and suggestion regarding the starter motor, I am going to replace the starter motor tomorrow because now when I turn the ignition key to start nothing happens the starter won't turn. What I do get is a clicking noise when turning the key to start from (I don't know what it is called) the unit at the back left hand (Drivers) side of the cylinder head with the throttle spindle/ cable attached to it, this is the only sound I get now, is this normal?? :) I have now got my laptop working again and I have run another vag-com test and the weird thing is the prievious codes have now vanished and now I have got these codes instead - 00668 = Supply Voltage Terminal 30 signal to low (I believe this refers to the battery if so how can it be low as its a new battery and fully charged!!) 00515 = Camshaft Posistion Sensor 00533 = Idle air control valve Could these be the problem I hope I find a solution soon as I am scratching my head so much I am going bald. Many thanks :lol:

Hi, Sorry about the delay in replying I've been snowed under with work at the mo, :D DANYODA1 = I've just checked the wiring and all is ok and the earth connections are sound. GAZZAUK = I've done as you suggested and the engine is not siezed at it turns when pulling and towing GN8691 = Definatly not the battery as it is brand new from Halfords and fully charged. Thanks for the suggestions so far but I am still hittting a brick wall any other suggestions, I have tried to run a vag com diagnostic but the lap top is playing up as well but it did give me some info (codes) before it died and they were - 17952 = Throttle potentimeter signal to high, 16505 = Throttle peddle position sensor, 17645 = Fuel injecter No1 cylinder open circuit Could these be causing the problem / preventing it from starting and are they easy to cure??????? :angry: As soon as the laptop is fixed I'll try again to see if any more gremlins pop up Many Thanks

Hi Wolfie, I believe they are coming from the gearbox side of the engine, one thing I forgot to add was that sometimes when turning the key nothing happens then next time on turning the key you get the weird noises

Hi, I am posting this as I am hoping someone out there can help me solve a problem I have with my mark 1 V6 Galaxy (Manual Transmission). She won't start, when turning the ignition on the starter engages but all that happens is there is a loud clunking / grinding / clicking noise from the engine. :ph34r: I have taken the starter motor out and benched tested it and it seems fine, the small sprocket shoots out to the 'stop' and spins then returns. After cleaning the starter motor and putting it back and replacing the batterey with a new Halfords 4 year one the same thing happens. I have tried to bump start the car by towing with my other car but it still won't start. PLEASE HELP.

Hi wolfie thanks for the info, Unfortunatly the problem with my V6 engine is now much bigger then expected and is now classed as "uneconomical to repair". :) I have managed to source a replacement engine but before I pay out hard earned cash on it I need some advice which I hope you lot can give ;) The engine I have manged to find is from a 1996 M3 Golf (V6) with AAA engine code and coil pack ignition and manual transmission. Does anyone know if this engine will fit my V6 Auto Galaxy reagrding the engine mounts as I have been told they are in diffrent locations on some VW V6 engines, as with the Auto box do I have to change the flywheel or anything else or is fiting an Auto box onto an engine origanally fitted with a manual box more complicated than it sounds ??????????? :( Many thanks and looking forward to the replies

Hi I just bought my Galaxy (I am new here!!!) when I get the engine repaired I want to do what you have done and ditch the green dash lights for the blue. I have looked in Crazy LED's shop on e-bay for the LED's and I admit I am lost. :angry2: Which ones do I need as he lists difrent one in all shapes and sizes. Also is any soldering required?. Many thanks