kalel

Well, one of the magz over here, in Sweden, dubbed the Nitro as "one of the most unnecessary cars on the market" and found almost no pros about the car, only cons. I for myself wouldn't touch one even if getting paid to take custody of it. /Karl

As I'm living on latitudes where preheaters are quite common I may offer some advice. I can with confidence say that you only drive away once with the cord attached. If you plan the installation well and have the inletsocket facing straight forward the connectingcord will be pulled straight out of the socket without any damages to anything. this is if you back out of the driveway of course. If you guys consider installing an engine preheater, I would like to suggest that you add a tricklecharger to the setup. Me O'l Missuses cars have had one for the last 20 years and her vehicles has needed new batteries in avarage between 8 and 10 years. My cars that never have had neither preheat or tricklecharger have needed replacement batteries at the, to us, normal 2 to 4 years interval. The extra cost for a trickler is soon paid in no batterychanges. I may also point you in the direction of DEFA, them Norsemens also knows how to heat cars in winters. http://www.defa.com/finn_dok_h.php3?merke=...=2&lang=3&ndid= I have experiences of both DEFA and Calix brands and can say that both brands work very well, only difference is that I have an impression that DEFA connectors and connector blocks are a little bit more reliable than Calix.

Yes one of your cells have shorted due to electrode separator failure. Not too uncommon specially when recharging from totally flat. That battery is a goner I'm afraid, there's now way I know that can ressurrect a shorted cell. The MkII Shalahaxyline can do both pb and Silver/Calcium batterys, what the manufacturers say about only use S/C is balooney. A car electric system designed for S/C can accomodate Pb batteries too without problems. The other way is a NoNo as a Pb system will not charge an S/C to nowhere near full capacity. S/C batteries have higher capacity and other advantages but this does not warrant their steep price. Unless your'e running your box on very short trips with a lot of gizmos running I would like to say, don't bother with S/C:s

Hi guys. Or should I say lamers. You are living in a part of the world that pampers you with mild temps. I've seen -34 on my display, not his year thankfully. The Gal was a bit slow grinding that morning but it did start without any hesitation. Ill try to remember to bring the digicamera out one of our chilliest mornings. -16 pfffft.

Count me in.

Mo4. I have to dissapoint you on the Swedish bank system. Electronic bank to bank transfer are three "bankingdays" here. Refunds from shops and alike is normally 10 days.

Count me in.

Just before pickup of "Potempkin"

1: Karl 2:

What I understand, in-dash 6CD-changer is that 6006 is the american verson and 6006E is the European version having RDS-EON radio. My 6006E do not play mp3.

I like the companys first FAQ question. BTW what's wrong with "The third bush on the right"??

Hi guys Seems as we all have aomething going on with our VR6es. I'm experiencing a hesitation between 1000 and 2000 revs on light acceleration. If preceeded by a long deaaceleration it really feels like misfire. Flooring the pedal, even from idle, is another ballpark, makes me just hang on for dear life.

Such mute controls are not fitted as standard, only available as very expensive options.

Yeah, sounds like a grounding issue. Being an old radiohand I'd suggest that you check the grounding of transciever, antenna AND the lights.

PM me with your number.