Thefletch

Sorry for the late update. The weekend before last I changed all the turbo hoses and the N75 valve. I could not believe the bad condition of the hoses, they were split and distorted and literally broke in my hand when removing so I felt quite sure this was the problem. Anyway during the test after replacement found the problem is still there so unfortunately did not fix the fault although possibly made the car run a little smoother but I am having to rethink! I did notice that one of the 5mm turbo hoses that I replaced seemed to go into another larger sensor towards the middle of the engine I believe. Is anybody able to tell me what this sensor does? many thanks

Glad to hear it and I hope it solves my problem also! I am hoping to do mine this week so I will let you know. Thanks again for all your help. Fletch

thanks for all your help. I will let you know the outcome. Fletch

Thats great news that it fixed the fault. Lets hope that it will do the same for mine! I have ordered an N75 valve for myself from Ford at the price you mentioned which I was glad of since I had a feeling it was going to cost a fortune. I have had a bit of a problem sourcing the vacuum tubing since by local auto stockists will supply for 5mm pipe but not the 3.5mm although I have found a place online that stocks it. Are you able to tell me approx how much of each pipe I would need to replace all the turbo hoses? Many thanks once again Fletch

Many thanks again for your help. I will be very eager to know if it fixed your fault. Can you also let me know if there is a website that I can purchase the N75 valve from? many thanks Fletch

Many thanks again for your help and adding that pic, thats very helpfull. I think I will do as you suggested and replace the vacuum pipes first and go from there. Will let you know how I get on. cheers Fletch

Many thanks for your reply folks. A garage has scanned it with their diagnostic software and found no fault code, it has gone to Ford for a scan for a different fault and they said nothing was shown. Can I ask a few things? Is the 3.5mm and 5mm piping I need just normal rubber piping? Nothing special since it turbo pipes? Did the similar fault you experienced similar to mine require the ignition to be turned off and back on to reset or like I have experienced just by easing off and back on the accelerator? Where is the best place to buy an N75 valve? I cant see any on Ebay? cheers Fletch

hiya I regularly tow a caravan with standar suspension and not self levelling suspension. The Galaxy makes an excellent towing vehicle, best I have ever towed with!!!

hiya folks I have had problems with the turbo on my Ford Galaxy (90) 1997 Aspen since I have had it. When the car is under load or on a hill and in 3rd 4th or 5th, it reaches about 3000rpm then the turbo kicks off. The load it is under determines the revs the turbo kicks off but when it happens, if I take my foot off the accelerator for a moment, then back on it comes back until it reaches load again. It has not really cuased too much of a problem but now I have a caravan to tow its really causing problems. It has gone into the garage twice over the last 18 months for this fault but each time they dont knw whats causing it. I have fitted new MAF sensor, its had new full exaust and TMAP sensor for non related problems but the problem still remains. This weekend I thought I would have a good look since the problem seems to me to indicate a boost/pressure problem and it hoped it might be a split vacuum that the machanic had failed to pick up on. When trying to follow the vacuum pipes, found that the pipe going to the back of the air box has broken off. I can see where it had been glued in the past. Can anybody help me as to whether this could actually account for this type of fault and also how does it connect to the back of the air box since whatever was there to hold it on place originally has broken off? cheers Fletch

I did phone them back up and told them I was annoyed since when I booked in the car, I specifically asked them to check the solenoid and the exhaust since the car had done less than 50 miles since these 2 parts were replaced. They said since the computer did not flag them up as a fault, they assumed they were working. I even asked them on 3 occasions to check this. I guess just another reason to try and stay away from Ford dealers.

thanks for that folks. I actually fixed the problem myself yesterday. It turned out to be a faulty fuel shotoff solenoid. Those trained monkeys as Ford were unable to spot the problem and wanted to change the pump. Glad its sorted now, just

thanks for that. It was the Diesel Injector Pump I was referring to. I can see one on Ebay for under

hiya folks I have been having a problem with my 1997 Ford Galaxy TDI. Ford have told me they think its the fuel pump but can't be sure so I have seen one for sale on Ebay. Can anybody tell me how difficult it is to fit a fuel pump on this car and does anybody know whether once it has been fitted, it has to be plugged into Ford diagnostics for calibration or to update the vehicle? many thanks Huw

I am having a problem with my 1997 TDI Galaxy. I have asked for the vehicle to be scanned by 2 garages but both said there was a problem which would not even let them into the system. So apart from not getting a fault code, they said that they could not even get any sort of response from the scanner which they had never seen before. Firstly is anybody able to give me any possible causes for this and also can anybody tell me what type of scanner I would need for me model Galaxy? I hear them talking about OBD-2 but is that compatible with a 1997 Galaxy? thanks

I have a problem with my 1997 Ford Galaxy TDI that I cannot seem to work out. I recently had a full service carried out on my Ford Galaxy. I picked up the car and done about a 100 miles and it was driving fine. I was driving along the dual carriageway when the engine suddenly started stuttering. I managed to get off the carriageway and realised that I could not get it past 2000rpm without the car stuttering, even if just revving it when not in gear, similar to a fuel blockage type problem. I immediately phoned the garage who took the car straight back to look into the problem, hoping it to be a serviceable part which had failed. They checked the car through for several hours and were at a complete loss, but were sure that it was not a mechanical fault and that it was probably an electrical fault somewhere. The problem only seemed to start after the car has been driven for a few minutes and the engine had warmed up. What was even more strange was that when they scanned the car for a diagnostic code, they could not get anything whatsoever and could not even get into the system. I lent the car to a friend to make a short journey and the problem got worse and he had to call for the AA. They had the same problem trying to read anything from a diagnostic check and again could not get into the system. He suggested that it was likely to be the throttle potentiometer and he did not think it was related that he could get into the diagnostic check. He seemed to think it was unlikely to be an ECU fault since the ECU on that car and age would not normally cause that type of fault. Any anybody able to give me any ideas of what this fault might be and also is there a way of testing the throttle potentiometer? many thanks