Wibbly

Not sure if I'm allowed to cross post (and I'm sure a mod will be along to delete this if not), but those with an ICE interest who only look in this topic might be interested in this: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=19316

This unit has 2 standard 'RCA' style audio connectors for a cable to connect your MP3 player or phone directly to the head unit. I used it with the headphone socket on both an iPod, and a mobile phone. Connecting a player with a cable this way directly into the head unit gets you the best quality of music and also without the hassle of FM transmitters or cassette tape adaptors. A nice upgrade that makes an older head unit more useful for modern ICE. Made by Connects2, this unit plugs into the CD connector on the back of the head unit and 'fools' the head unit that it has a CD changer attached (so you can't have a read CD changer attached atthe same time). Just use the CD button on the head unit, and your audio from your player comes out the speakers in great quality. This Connects2 unit (marked VFOX003) *may* work with several head units, but I only know it works with mine - marked as a Ford branded "4050 RDS EON CD changer compatible". It's a Visteon OEM unit I think. I'll also include the two U shaped keys to insert into and extract the head unit, to make things easy. Will sell for

Well, for better or worse this one's gone as a trade sale for

I've a Manual 2.3LX on a Y plate with 98,000m. Body good. Good tyres/recent MOT etc., full service history. But air bag warning light on (which *may* be pricey to fix). I've been offered not-a-lot as a part exchange from a Ford Dealer. Prices seem to be all over the place and few available/selling as private sales this model/age/mileage looking at Auto Trader etc. I'm wondering what combination of not-desirable/in short supply this is due to. Dealer retail prices seem to be in order of

Thanks FAQ 19 also seems to cover it. With a Bosch part that should be

Thanks. I did a search and couldn't find any refs. What is this pump "called"? (The noise doesn't sound like brushes to me - quite deep and a repetative "knocking/bearing" type noise. But of course you could indeed be correct!)

Looks to me like there's been a leak possibly at the host at the top of the pic below. But what's the metal (orangy/yellow) piece? Is that the stat housing for this Y reg 2.3? So presumably likely to be a new hose required?

The electric water pump situated at the back of the engine bay at the top (in the attachment) on my Y reg 2.3 is, after 96,000 miles, now making the most horrendous bearing noise which is obviously most noticible when the pump runs on for a few mins after the engine's turned off. Ford want

My rear wiper is intermittent only after the car has been started - pauses as it wipes. After a few wipes it's fine. If this were a loom problem this woundn't happen would it? It's not as if I'm opening the tailgate or anything. Any ideas? W

Anyone know if a broken clock spring can give the same symtoms as a broken airbag (detonator)? The dealer just bunged it through their 'diag' system, which said airbag was the problem....

Can/does the rattle increase under load? It's this aspect that seems odd to me.

Wouldn't I expect the oil pressure light to be slow turniing off or even flickering if it was low oil pressure during a cold start?

All done, and added my experiences in the other thread. There was a little dampness in the carpet. Not sure how to deal with that. I guess it should dry out on it's own, given there's no more watter being added (I hope)...

> Then pull the trim panel toward the interior of the vehicle to release the panel clips. I just completed this job, but beware I did indeed break some of the clips. You may have more luck if you try and move the panel UP instead. There are clips in the trip panel on a vertical axis that plug into an assembly that clips into the sill on a horizontal axis. It just depends I guess of which gives way more easily. I also found I didn't need to remove the weather seal - it was flexible enough in my case to facilitate removing and replacing the trim panel For the record, I used a water pipe repair kit (a combination of tape like duck tape, and self amalgamating tape - wonderful stuff) - we'll see how it fairs. The joint had half popped out.

I've only had a little squirt, so to speak, so no water obvious inside yet. Will follow the link above. Thanks.

Well, a year on, and it's much the same. There's been an oil change (checked correct grade). Maybe this is something far worse brewing, like big or little end problems, but I don't know what the symptoms of this would be and presumably they'd be obvious with the engine hot/oil thin... The odd thing is it remains load related, and only for 50-100yds after starting a stone cold engine.

When I try to use the rear screen wash it doesn't work, and sounds like the water is coming out somewhere near the front nearside footwell. I guess there's a join that's popped off/apart? A dealer once fixed this for me during a service, but don't want to wait this time. Is this common, and anyone know where exactly I should be looking?

Ok, we're now in Sept. I've been offered a pair of Goodyear Excellences for

I just mail ordered from the above. Type 075 Varta Blue Dynamic Car Battery (Ca). Lowest price I could find too -

So despite using Pb battery, you've had no practical ill effects?

Anyone ever bought from these guys? http://www.tayna.co.uk

Hence my dilema - manaula says use Ca. Pb seems to have been fitted as an original (and lasted 6 years). What should I fit as a replacement?!?