bofus

Thanks to all for the advice and recommendation to use motomax in Poland The shaft was delivered in 3 working days, fitted exactly as expected and has made the car so much nicer to drive. No more clonking, no more clunky gear changes and a much smoother drive take up.....and no worries when i tow the caravan :-)

If it is just the outer sleeve rusted away...don't worry!!! They only need replacing if they have leaked oil or blown seals. If the back end is bouncy and or the car has done 100k plus miles, then any oem or branded dampers that are available from someone such as Europarts or GSF will suffice.

How do you get this to work with a VW/seat radio?

How do I get my mirrors to fold in when the central locking is activated....the switch on the drivers door is a bind.....is it a recode or additional wiring/relay?

Check the brake pedal and cluch pedal sensors

From practical experience ... 1500kg mtplm caravan( max technical permissible weight) is towable behind a healthy 115ps shalaxy, whilst a 1000kg caravan will barely cause te car to breakout in a sweat..... As for towbars and wiring... I have used the vw approved westfalia bars, both acquired on the cheap as surplus dealer stock...very good fit and very sturdy, although any 'E' marked bar should be of similar standard. The big choice is detachable, flange or gooseneck....and 13 pin or 7 pin. For me, detachable and 13 pin wins... For both looks, convenience and reliability...obviously if your caravan is 7 pin then it makes sense to wire for that and not have to use an adaptor.....either way make sure that the additional wiring for a fridge is included along with either a smart relay or other device to only apply power to the fridge when the car engine is running. Another top tip...if you have never towed before, enrol on a towing course, and then take it steady at first...too many first time tuggers end up ruining family holidays by rushing and end up facing the wrong way on the motorway with the caravan on its side...

Just to confirm...the 2001 car was an AUY 115PS the 2003 car is a 130PS ASZ..... Just about 2.5 years apart on build date....but some many subtle differences...also the newer lower mileage car has many 'niggles' such as crack wiring in the door jams, rear washer pipe pulled apart, headlamp motors seized, run on pump seized, U/S aircon, all the usual stuff that the old car never had issues with....ooh the price of progress :-)

Just swapped a 01 for an 03 Alhambra Tdi.... The 03 does not power the run on auxiliary pump after the ignition is switched off. I have cross checked and even swapped the pumps over to prove this. My conclusion is that this was done to stop over cooling the engine during frequent stop start driving in cold weather as the aux pump seems to bypass the thermostat.

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=4818 try the 5th picture along

I have th esame fault...the unit is on the top of the heater unit on the passenger side...I will try and attach/link a pic soon

umm maybe I should have been a bit clearer, this is a Mk2 Alhambra.....no Torx screws on this one Gav

Okay, I have tried and failed both in the car and using the search...how the hell do you get the top passenger side storage box out of the dashboard top...is it possible at all without taking the dash out or breaking the box? Anybody done this before? Gav

The new 1.9L TDI engine with unit injector system is available in two engine variants. 1. 66 kW variant producing a maximum power of 66 kW (90 PS) at 4000 rpm and a maximum torque of 240 Nm at 1900 rpm. The identification letters are ANU. 2. 85 kW variant producing a maximum power of 85 kW (115 PS) at 4000 rpm and a maximum torque of 310 Nm at 1900 rpm. The identification letters are AUY. This new engine has a variable turbocharger and a unit injector system and supersedes the proven 81 kW 1.9L TDI engine. Cut and paste from Ford TIS, not sure when the 100BHP came available, but the above was correct at time of launch.

Probably AUY 115BHP. From memory only two options then 100bhp and 115bhp Gav

you dont always need to reset the Aux heater with vag-com. Mine fired up fine with all five failures still showing on vag-com. The problem I had (still have!) is the ambient temp sensor under the wiper arm failing mechanically inside. I have shorted both terminals together and all is now fine until May....it will then be wired to a dash switch so i have full control! Cheers Gav