turk90210

Thats a very good question, a similar thing I noticed was I was looking for a 40 watt halogen bulb for a office lamp, found the usual 25watt ect but could only find 42 watt bulbs for the lamp NO 40 watts ?

Sounds like a possible earth problem if you have put all the others back properly? Do you have access to a multimeter and know the basics of how to use it , if so can talk you through a basic test on positive and negative leads which might point you in the right direction

ditto what howey said, but before you part with any hard earned cash, has anyone done a test on the alternator, if so what was the readings as there are other common problems which stop the alternator recharging the battery (ie melted fuse box by battery, loose wiring connections ect). Also can you expand on turning the key nothing but when jump started fires straight away, that in itself sounds like battery/alternator problems but can I ask where the jump leads are connected as it can eliminate certain things and more importantly get the alternator output checked and the associated wiring with a multimeter

hi Rosie well sorry to say but the two codes you have given are nothing like what were use to seeing from either EOBD or vag codes. My best guess would be they are paticular to the diagnostic code reader you used so I would find out what make it is and have a look if they have a web site you can go on to try and decipher

OOps forgot to mention the previous info is if you dont have A/C if it does have A/C then Autodata has it as being blank!

Last time I wired up an alarm with c/locking (was a long time ago) I tapped into the wires for the master solenoid which is usually either front door and piggy backed onto them before they went throught the "A" pillar into the door best check the wiring diagrams in your Haynes manual though. As for the fuse you mention, just checked Autodata and if you pictures are correct then it says it's for the Engine Coolant Blower. That said it also stated the next one, which could be a 40amp fuse is also for the same thing so worth a check, if its working ok then as Radiotwo said some one could have put it back instead of binning it but cant see any harm if you just replace it worst thing that could happen is it will blow again then you know for sure you have a fault somewhere on that circuit

Depending on where you live in the North West (Im south Manchester) I have one you can borrow or you can get one from machine mart http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/laser-4213-alternator-tool-set

The big question here is which engine are we talking about when you say TDi I assume when you are asking about coding you are talking about the later engine (PD )as they have an eletrical connection on them someone could correct me on this as I have never delt with injectors on one of these engine but I dont think you have to code them to the ECU. Im told they are very expensive, are you sure its an injector fault if it is one of these as they suffer from electrical problems to the injector units on the PD engine

Before buying anything check out the wiring to the sensors, I had a similar problem, all sensors were ticking but on further inspection I found a wire had been rubbing through behind rear bumper which I eventually found after pulling the wiring out and having a close inspection. Repaired the wiring and all has been fine

Good picture's phil, the item you ask about is the run on pump for the rear heater but what I would like to know is what is the wet line coming from above and dripping down onto the pump , from the picture it looks like you need to investigate above

wwwwhhhhoooooo stop right now,before you go any further - sorry was getting side tracked with a bit of Meatloaf But seriously before you do go any further, are you saying that you have the correct timing tool for this job. If so why not use it properly along with the right size drill and do the job properly, after all you have taken the time to strip it down. I hear what chrisp is saying and in some circumstances it can work but I personally try and avoid it at all costs, if the correct timing tools are cheap enough why not use them. We all condem garages that do this sort of thing so why encourage it. One slight mistake with the tippex marks and you ruin your engine to the tune of

If your doing alot of town stop/starting driving this could be the normal operation of the electric fan when in traffic. It depends on what you call running warmer/cooler, do you notice a big change or does the needle move just past normal running temp before coming down. If its a big change but your sure its not overheating I would first look at the temp sensor, they are never pinpoint accurate (but we all expect/assume them to be)they are just a guide.

If your doing alot of town stop/starting driving this could be the normal operation of the electric fan when in traffic. It depends on what you call running warmer/cooler, do you notice a big change or does the needle move just past normal running temp before coming down. If its a big change but your sure its not overheating I would first look at the temp sensor, they are never pinpoint accurate (but we all expect/assume them to be)they are just a guide.

I can see where scorpio is coming from but I can also see where the garage is going, did you tell the garage the full story as I would have thought the battery would have been the 1st thing they would have checked You say "you can attempt to start 9 or 10 times without success & then no starter, nothing at all. However when this happens a jump start always works, the car starts instantly, ticks over & drives perfectly......" In this attempt to start the car is the engine/starter turning over fast and just not starting then after the 9/10 attempts the battery goes flat hense the jump start or is it barly turning over? - so as scorpio suggests this could be a battery problem so a test would be in order if nothing else but to confirm its condition and replace if poor BUT You also state "sometimes it needs 1 or 2 attempts to start it because the engine fires but then immediately dies" - now this is a classic sign of the transponder in the key not being recognised so if available I would try the spare key.Or if you havn't got a spare then invest in one as they are always needed What is the light on the door doing when it doesn't start if you find the battery is ok and going off what you have said so far I would be inclined to think Immobilizer, ie key or reciever. Good luck I wouldn't worry about feeling a chump I think we have all been there at some stage (much prefer feeling the mrs though)

Think we need a bit more info/diagnostics here as it could be anything , is fuel pump priming,spark at plugs what is the alarm light doing ect ect also when you say the whole engine please be a bit more precise peoples idea of whole engine differ. I have seen situations where people have got a replacement engine said to be from the same model vehicle(not talking Galaxy here by the way) swopped over the whole lump inc clutch and flywheel, only for the car not to start, various new parts were replaced still wouldn't go. After being scoped and diagnosed properly turned out there were different flywheels fitted on the car, as the old one wasn't used it turned out to be a larger air gap on the flywheel sensor which in turn wouldn't tell the ecu the engine was turning over so non starter, the old flywheel was put back on and first turn of key it started Also something I can't get my head round is this recoding the ecu to the engine. I could be wrong but I am only aware of the key having to be coded to the ecu so if a straight engine swop it wouldn't have needed any sort of recode unless you changed the ECU aswell? and you paid