torvil

OK diagnoses proved that turbo was obliterated. Just trying to source recon unit. Best prices so far are the wrong side of £350 and harbour at £230 eeeekk!!

MAF sensor disconnected...no change. With the air pipe removed it starts just about and idles rough for around 4 seconds before it cuts out.

The large pipe is the one from the inter cooler at the front offside of the engine. It does suggest timing slip but why would it run with this pipe removed?

Yesterday whilst the wife was driving she stated the 2004 130hp ASZ engine cut out whilst travelling at around 50mph. She told me there were no apparent noises or smoke. It would start, turns over but just doesn't fire with still no unusual noises (lack of compression etc) The RAC guy comes, drags it home and says the turbos broken. He unloads it from van, removes the big oil pipe and it runs enough for him to park it on our drive. It runs very rough without the pipe connected, but when I replace it, the car just will not start again. Can anyone help?

Yesterday whilst the wife was driving she stated the 2004 130hp ASZ engine cut out whilst travelling at around 50mph. She told me there were no apparent noises or smoke. It would start, turns over but just doesn't fire with still no unusual noises (lack of compression etc) The RAC guy comes, drags it home and says the turbos broken. He unloads it from van, removes the big oil pipe and it runs enough for him to park it on our drive. It runs very rough without the pipe connected, but when I replace it, the car just will not start again. Can anyone help?

I recently chaged the pads and discs all round on my 2004 TDi 130. I will admit that they were a cheap set from a seller on e-bay and only paid around £90 delivered (a risk I know)! All went well until a few weeks ago the car developed, first a sqeal from the front and then second days later a horrible rattle. My intial thought the rattle was an ARB drop link on the near side,even though I had replaced them both last summer. However on inspection I noticed that the outer pad on the near front wheel was able to move around as if it was too small for the carrier in the caliper. I will add that prior to fitting I smoothered the back of the pad with copper slip grease. In addition to this the n/s brake disc hasnt been in contact with the pad on the outer 1/3 surface from the hub. I have removed the pad and put copper slip arond the our edge of the pad and on the rear again, obviously not on the brake surface. This has got rid of the rattle (for now at least) and reduced the sqeal. Has anyone experienced this and is it down to the inferiro pads? Can anyone recommend a brand or should I go straight for Genuine/OE pads. The offside pads are fine and silent.

Got a second opinion o Eric the phone today by another local engineer who stated that this problem I'd almost definately a faulty internal part in the compressor. He did mention the known pipe corrosion problem around the headlamp and that the pipe work is fitted prior to the engine figment at the factory which he states is very common on our vehicles. The decision of whether to spend £300 on a compressor refit and the gamble of it being something as well which is at sorts an engine out job is a tough one.

No fault codes on vag con. Did initially have engine coolant temp sensor 17664 but have erased this. Not apparent signs of leaks or corrosion. I'm going to try for a second opinion. Why does the galaxy have so much glass. It would be fine to drive everywhere with the windows down if we didn't use it on the motorway.

Mk 2 facelift. I can't find out how to add a signature. The model is on my profile with a photo.

Thanks for the replies I clearly have a few more avenues to explore now. I did watch what he was doing when he performed the procedure on both occasions. He did have the car ticking over for at least 30 mins when he pressure tested it with the nitrogen. When he put the coolant in he knew how much to put in and the system worked for a few minutes and initially he claimed that the pressure didn't drop which he couldn't understand. He did mention the drier and appeared to examine it after the refrigerant and dye had been out in but he never removed any panels to perform closer inspection. I assume that if there is corrossion around the pipe work enough to make the system fail, it's can be seen to the naked eye? Should there be other signs ie signs of the refrigerant leak.

I forgot to mention that it is a single zone system without the roof vents, and the compressor is not working now (no change of rpm). The climatronic doesn't flash on startup. The engineer stated that this type of system (self driven or something) is more difficult to diagnose compressor fault that other vehicles.

Hi folks just an update. The engineer came back round two weeks ago and regassed the system with some dye after pumping nitrogen (I think) into the system to see if it was holding pressure. It did at first but after 30 minutes it started to drop albeit very slowly. The dye didn't detect a leak and when regassed the system worked a treat.....for the first 10 mins anyway. He noticed that the cold air pipe want getting cold even though the pressure was still high in the system. Low and behold the compressor wasn't working again and now no cold air. His verdict was that he thought that the compressor was faulty and that there was probably a further issue which couldn't be diagnosed until the compressor is replaced. £190 + vat for the part £60 labour and then the threat of a (at worst) leaking pipe from behing the engine, im in a quandary of whether to get it repaired it part ex the car. It's such a shame as we live the car but need the A/C in the summer months due to the motorway commuting it does. Any further advice would be appreciated.

The air con on my galaxy no longer blows cool air. It has been re charged, confirmed that no leaks are present as the engineer has re-visited two weeks later and confirmed that it's holding it's pressure and levels, also the compressor engages and disengages. I was wondering if anyone has experienced this and has a solution like a knackered climate control unit or temp sensor.

Did you resolve this issue as I'm having the same problem, and my air con is working but not blowing cooled air.

I'm about to replace my factory fitted visteon DVD player with a combined universal replacement headrest system. I have seen these listed http://shop.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/searchresults?cmd=SKW&pg=1&kw=In+car+DVD+%2B+headrest On that well known auction site and wondered if anyone has any reviews or feedback on the finished product and more importantly the three retailers. I'm suspicious as you have to communicate with the sellers via email only. Any advice would be great.