geoffandjen

Thank you for your responses. my garage (been reliable) have removed both. Neither appeared to be working, and both appeared stiff. the garage insist that they have 'checked the power to the fans and that is good. They have been looking for second hand fans for me, but have come up with nothing after a week. I have checked Ebay, and could possibly get hold of a pair, or indeed a complete radiator with fans. I have registered with a couple of spares breakers on line, but have had no joy here. How do I check the sensor? I am no electrician. Any help appreciated. Regards Geoff

I have a 1997 2.8 v6 Ghia X. I have put it in my local garage and they have diagnosed both fans around the radiator not working. They have delivered power to them but they are not working. The garage say Frod charge

Will check both tomorrow, just getting on the road to Wembley - Pompey fan. Thank you for the swift reply.

Just back from a trip to North Devon Towing my caravan. A few days before we left, I noticed that my Galaxy V6 1997 GhiaX temp gauge was creeping up to the red when in very slow traffic (not towing). Normally the gauge sits dead centre on the dial between the O and R of NORM. When travelling to work (25 miles) temp stayed normal unless in slow traffic for a minute or two. It soon cools after speeding up again - I assume air flow. Had no time to get it seen to before towing holiday, so carefully monitored it. Similar pattern occurred. When travelling at 55mph towing, the gauge stayed normal, but up long hills, or during very slow traffic, the gauge crept up to between the M and the Red. Managed to avoid overheat during trip. Behaved the same whilst away without towing. Topped up water before I left and checked it regularly whilst away, and I had to put only about a cupfull in just before return journey. There are no water leaks visible, and no steam showing. I recently had the cam chain and tensioners replaced after previous running problem. I have not monitored the internal heater for the car. I have however noticed a slight 'rattle' from behind the steering wheel in front of the dash. This rattle increased when blower was on two bars, and reduced when I went down to one bar of the control. Have seen some posts about impeller blades on other models, so thought this may be relevant. I would appreciate any help or ideas as to my problem. I spent the best part of

Cyborg, Brilliant - thanks. A virtual pint of Old Peculier on it's way. Many thanks

Long explanation on it's way - why I am not going anywhere near the garage - let alone letting them back on my car. Will phone them though. I am away on holiday at the weekend towing my caravan, and am a little worried that it could be vital.

Ok - it's a bracket. Very good. That's two pints so far. A virtual pint for whoever can identify whereabouts on my car it belongs.

All, If it wasn't such a nightmare, this could be a joke! I will write separately about the experience in curing my misfire on my 2.8 V6 1997, but for now - Can anybody identify the following part? It fell out off the engine compartment as I drove away from a 'garage' on Saturday. A couple of clues:- 1 -It is about 3 inches long 2 -I have had my rocker cover off and all the 'stuff' that is required to take off in order to get to the top end of the timing chain. 3 -I had 2 'new' fuel injectors fitted A virtual pint for the first correct answer! Praying somebody can help. Thank you Geoff

I bought one 2 weeks ago after good advice on here and the VW part no is VW 021012213. It cost

Hi, Sorry to bounce this, but still need help with which HT Lead goes to which port on the coil pack. Can any of you V6 2.8 1997 owners help? Thank you in anticipation. Geoff

Hi, In trying to resolve my misfire, I had a thought. Without a manual, I do not know which leads go from which sockets on the coil pack. Now, you would normally expect that nothing has changed. However, I did have a garage replace my drive belt recently and it is since then that the misfire occurs. I assumed that if two leads were 'swapped' in error, then the engine would misfire extremely badly, and possibly cause great damage - am I correct? But for my piece of mind, can somebody tell me which leads go where. I notice that the channels and leads are numbered, but I cannot see the coil pack markings if there are any. Three at the back of the engine compartment, drivers, middle and nearside, three at the front. Connecting to coil pack, top 3 and bottom 3. Thank you in anticipation. Geoff

Hi all, Well the leads arrived and I bought the plugs. I also purchased a lead removal tool from VW (

MK2VR6 Many thanks, have ordered the tool and have the plugs, leads on their way. Really useful forum for novices like me. Will let you know how I get on. Cheers Geoff

Help, Can anybody point me at the tool required to remove/replace Spark Plugs and HT Leads on my Galaxy V6 2.8 Ghia X Jan 97? Can anyone advise if it is best to replace the Coil Pack at the same time. Sorry about simple questions, but I cannot get a Haynes Manual for this car to help, so any help you can give me would be very much appreciated. Regards Geoff

Sorry, forgot to say, that although starting problem cured, I have a couple of issues which I have already reported back to VW service man. Before this problem my remote I/R key did not work, but the central locking worked fine when I inserted any key in any of the 3 locks. Now Upon return today, none of my keys activate the central locking. I have to manually lock and unlock every door except the tailgate. Strangely enough this locks always upon shutting, even without key insertion??? Second issue, I guess related. After I switch off ignition I hear a ticking sound coming from under the passenger seat for about 40 secs, before it stops. Any ideas?? Will expect to have this corrected for free upon return. Oh and there was very greasy handprints all over my bonnet, presumably as a result of changing battery! It wouldn't have taken much to clean it would it?

OK Here is the feedback to help others who may have the same problem. Had car recovered to electrician I have used before. He had a look and explained that he thought that the key, the barrel coil (around the ignition barrel) or the immobiliser ECU had a problem. In order of cost he suggested that I give him all my keys (to try others), secondly he would replace barrel coil

Yes Tom - they did exactly what you described. the difference is that I had the earlier problem with sluggish turnover at starting, detailed in my other post. I have a hunch that I may be dealing with multiple problems now. Firstly, the sluggish turnover for 2-3 weeks, including several jump starts. Then last Friday it failed with the exact problem you have. I removed/re-seated every relay I could find, and replaced the fuel pump one 167. Did I upset something in doing that? Then I had a flat battery, and switched to my master key (red). Maybe relay 167 did cure the problem, but my digging around has caused something else to go!! Me and the wife have been looking options to trade up to a newer galaxy, that's how p****d off we are. Of course we need to get this one fixed anyway, at whatever cost, even if we do decide to part-ex. Then we would have just spent the money, plus 2 rear shockers, pollen filter and new front blower motor, and half an exhaust - all in 6 months. Will then be thinking must keep it to get return. How long has your car been out of action? Your original post goes back over a year. Will post the result as soon as I know it, and the cost!!!!!!! Geoff

OK - Just had a phone call from my electrician. No result yet, but he thinks it is related to the immobiliser. His VAG-COM is not getting any response back from the anti-theft system (PATS?). This could be a failed unit, could be a duff key, could be a duff aerial (the ignition key barrel has an aerial wrapped around it which receives a signal from the coded key, this signal is passed to the PATS unit, which disables the immobiliser). I am taking other key to garage in the morning, then more investigation. Apparently, the PATS system can only be fixed by main ford dealer (mega

Tom, Got your personal message. Yes it appears that we have a similar problem. I understand from others that I don't have a relay 30 in my V6, although you can see I've tried to find it!. My car was towed to the eletrical car place this morning, and I am awaiting a call from him now to see if he has been able to get on it today. He is confident he will resolve it, so watch this space. Geoff

Have been in breakdown recovery in the past, and will soon be doing it again. Teach me to let it lapse.

UPDATE: Bought a fuel pump relay and replaced bottom row right hand end - no change. Now about to give up and call recovery to tow to Car Electrical Garage who I have used before. Thanks for all those who offered advice. Will let you know what it was - providing it gets resolved.

Wolfie, Thanks. I had the relay you describe bottom right in my hand earlier today, checking if it was relay 30. The pins were different, so popped it back. It had a big number on it, can't remember what, but it was not K4. If I understand you right, this relay on a V6 controls the fuel pump (presumably it's cut off?), and the symptoms I describe point to it's failure. I can replace this by just dropping the fuse panel front cover, and removing it. Simple. Will go and remove it tomorrow. Geoff

Kev, The relay is still with the car (20 miles away). Pretty sure it is a ford part as I purchased it yesterday from Ford Main Dealer. I am thinking you are right about no relay 30 on a V6. The electrics guy helping could not find the relay 30 on his diagram for a V6, and the guys in parts at the Ford Main Dealer did not sound convincing. As I said before I have had the fuse panel down (1 layer) and searched behind. No number 30. I have had it suggested the symptoms relate to fuel cut off relay or immobiliser relay. The engine turns fine with the starter motor, but cuts out immediately. Prior to this, and for the last few weeks, the engine turned over very sluggishly for 5-10 secs before limping into life. Once started it ran fine. Now it's unusable. Really appreciate any help you (or others) can give. The car is in a parking bay with others in a residential area. I am reluctant to get a recovery company ( I have no AA/RAC) to tow it to an electrician, if it is a simply relay/component replacement. Need to fix this in the next few days, as I tow a caravan, and we have a few days away booked for Easter. There was me telling everybody it had been so reliable! Many thanks in anticipation Geoff

Wolfie, The one I bought has a big 30 on it. I used Grahamm's diagram to get at the relays, althoug it is different from my V6. I have not been able to locate the relay 30. There are not two levels of relays as in Grahamm's diagram, and none I could find with 30 on it. I also looked for 27 as somebody indicated that 30 is in fact 27 on some models. Couldn't find that either. Hence the question. Geoff Sorry my last reply should have been to Big Kev not Wolfie. I have a new relay 30 but cannot find the one to replace it with. Geoff

Wolfie, The one I bought has a big 30 on it. I used Grahamm's diagram to get at the relays, althoug it is different from my V6. I have not been able to locate the relay 30. There are not two levels of relays as in Grahamm's diagram, and none I could find with 30 on it. I also looked for 27 as somebody indicated that 30 is in fact 27 on some models. Couldn't find that either. Hence the question. Geoff