bingo nightly

Yes indeed it is all as it should be. The bulb failure test is not confirmed until the circuit is completed by you applying the brakes for the first time after start up. If the go out then that all is fine.

Mine has always done this.............basically plays what it wants! I have never been able to fix it, cleaned it, took it apart, examined it, cleaned it again, no differance I'm afraid!

I'd start with taking the plugs out and having a look at them which will give you a clue as to whats going on inside, then a compression test to find out if you have leaking valves or broken rings, scored barrels etc.

I've had this with wheels before, the alloy corrodes and builds up and pushes the tyre off the rim causing it to deflate slightly. With the tyres off its easy enough to clean up the rims with a flap wheel on a drill........but the tyres need to be off which is a problem!

Sounds like your losing water from the heater matrix behind the dash and its collecting in the drivers footwell.

A bit on the thirsty side I'd say. My 2.8 will do 270 miles on a full tank towing a caravan.

If the timing chain has jumped a tooth or two then it will almost certainly have bent some valves at the very least. This would account for low compression and reluctance to turn over. If this is the case I would be inclined to look for a used engine to replace yours, there are stacks of 2.3's out there being broken but you should ideally find one you can hear running or with some sort of warranty. I replaced my V6 engine for

I understand it is against the law to release air con gas into the atmosphere, and so you mustn't disconnect the pipes and let it all come out like I did to mine when I changed my engine. :) Alternatively you could call a mobile air con engineer to come and de gas it.

I had a plastic T peice on the cooling system fracture last year (it was a smaller bore pipe though so must be a different bit) and having spent half an hour with the Ford parts man who couldn't find the part on his system and then another half an hour with the VW parts man who declared said part didn't exist, I bought a universal plastic T peice from the local motor factors for about a quid and stuck it in place.......its been fine ever since.

I need to replace mine as they are banging and clanking about. Its the first time they have been touched since I bought the car 4 years ago.

Its very common for the O rings on either side of the oil cooler to perish and leak oil. It happened to mine. I have tried to post a link but it appears not to be working for some reason, but if you google "VR6 oil cooler" you should find all the info you require.

These people may be able to help, they claim to ba able to repair broken air con pipework, and by post. Not used 'em myself but well worth a try: http://www.bee-cool-aircon.co.uk/index.html

Ridiculous price! Cost me £350 for a new comp. from Cheltenham radiators (found on internet), supplied it to local garage and they charged me a couple of hours labour to stick it on.

Ridiculous price! Cost me