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Ford Galaxy Owners Club

richyrich

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About richyrich

  • Birthday 11/15/1957

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  • Vehicle Type
    galaxy 1.9 115 pd
  • Vehicle Model
    Ford
  • Region
    East Midlands

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    wellingborough

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  1. Finally said goodbye to my 2001 galaxy yesterday - gone to the scrappy after owning for 17 years! Did 188k miles - loved it for it’s practicality, but i must admit I always seemed to be working on it - even had a new engine, turbo and clutch fitted at 70k miles due to the dreaded ‘blocked Egr valve’. Final straw - lots of smoke from exhaust- think the turbo was about to go, kept going into limp mode when going over 2k revs. Sad to see her go - replaced with a seat Alhambra which I’m not sure about yet - especially the back seats - and we can’t get our 2 bikes in either! Richyrich
  2. Hi - my mk2 y reg nearly failed last year on rear brake pipe corrosion, so I bought a kit from ebay consisting of 4 different pipes (which I still have). But I found that the joins were just under the front cross suspension on one side so were visible but not really accessible. So I rubbed down most of the corroded areas with wire wool and fine emery paper and rubbed in some grease and now the mot man is happy. The pipes still felt pretty solid when I prised them out the clips as well. I replaced some of the clips but couldn’t get a certain type. Good luck Rich
  3. It's definitely the air con hose - mine broke in exact same place. Rich
  4. Totally agree with traff - had exact same symptoms - mine was the hard plastic pipe had split at elbow where it connects to brake servo. Complete thing available on line ( prob about 50 squid by now) hardest part of job is fitting it in original route behind engine to the vacuum pump. Good luck Rich
  5. It could be the turbo - there is an oil feed to the bearing of the turbo I think, and if this bearing breaks down it may allow oil to get into both sides of the turbo. You will be burning oil from the intake air and putting oil into the exhaust gases as well, hence the black smoke. More people on here with more knowledge and experience will be along shortly hopefully. Rich
  6. Definitely no missing engine management light. Did you get the plug and socket together good - they do seem to be a tight fit - mine are anyway(no doubt because they have to be waterproof). Rich
  7. Xavier - Just looked at my old gal (same as yours) and the light you are missing on start up is the brake pad wear indicator. Just comes on briefly like the others. Maybe just the bulb blown? Or you need to check pads/wiring. Wear indicators only fitted to 2 wheels, one front and one back, opposite corners(can't remember which!) As chrome dome says - the glow plug light doubles up as the engine management light and will flash if there is a problem. Rich
  8. Hope this turns out ok (ie not too expensive) for you. 7yrs ago I had something similar - when I got home the engine would still run, but if you took the dipstick out or the oil filler cap off you would get showered with oil being blown out! Recovery guy said turbo-ford garage said something seriously wrong with engine - no s--t Sherlock I said. (Could have been piston rings or hole in crown of piston) Long story - ended up with new engine. Big problem at your mileage can be egr valve - check it out - do a search. Rich
  9. Thanx for that chris - guess what - I'm not gonna bother Rich
  10. Insanitybeard - doesn't look like number 4 in this - it's just a shaped piece of foam that fits snugly around the front of the engine as you look directly at it. (Know what I mean?) I'm guessing it's to stop freezing cold air going straight on to the engine in this weather as you drive at speed - and lots of other reasons regarding temperatures /circulation etc etc. chrisb123456- I'll check that thanks -didn't think it would cost a lot - if it does I'll stick something there myself. Thanx guys Rich
  11. Does anyone know the part number for the insulation jacket around the VW 1.9tdi engine in my Gal or where I can get one - mine has disintegrated into nothing! Rich
  12. Thanks Chris - so long since I had to do any work on the engine. It's on the boost pipe work near to the engine fuse box isn't it? Rich
  13. Hi Matt, Just did a quick look on my Gal using my MaxiScan and I got 99kPa for the MAP, I also got 9.1 g/s on the MAF. Both readings change when I rev the engine. Not sure about this but I thought our cars had a MAF (mass air flow) sensor, and not a MAP sensor, which I think is a different sort of sensor that measures pressure in the intake manifold. Maybe there is a conversion in the engine management system. I had a very poor performance with mine some time ago (before I had my scanner), unplugged the MAF and no difference at all, fitted new one from VW(cheaper than Ford) and the difference was unbelievable. Hope this helps. Rich
  14. I had exactly the same symptoms - rigid pipe was split where it connected onto an elbow connection at the brake servo. About 46 quid from Fraud, Hardest part was taking the heat shield off - feeding the pipe along the original route - then the really hardest bit getting the heat shield back in place - b----r of a job. Good luck Rich
  15. A helicoil basically replaces the damaged thread in the hole - it looks like a spring but it's not - if you know what i mean. You have to drill the damaged hole out and thread it with an oversize thread, the helicoil is then wound into that thead using a special little basic tool and you should be back to having an original sized and type of thread. Basic, but you need the right sized drill,tap and helicoil kit.
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