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billywizzo

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Posts posted by billywizzo

  1. If it making grinding noises then i think you will need to replace the mechanism.

    It is quite straight forward once you get the door trim off.

    I bought the whole mechanism minus the motor which i swapped over. I also replaced the door trim clips as i pulled the trim off but it should slide up when loose.

    Sorry i cannot remember where i got it from but i do remember it was not that expensive at the time.

     

    Bill

  2. So you still don't know what is causing the lack of power especially up hills.

     

    I am getting a garage do the top mounts and shocks but not till the kids are back at school.

     

    Will have a good look around the engine for anything obvious next week once the other half returns from a weekend away with the galaxy.

     

    I didn't have any fault codes when i checked today but my maf desired was 270 and actual was 396 at idle.

    At 2000rpm it was 235/23,. everything else looked ok.

     

    When i get time next week i will try and record more data and hopefully get to the problem.

  3. My car seems to do the same.

     

    "noticed a few times recently, when warmed up, especially on the longer journeys, it seems to be lacking power ... pulling away takes forever & can't "thrash it" on acceloration & when visiting family sunday, i decided to come back via the motorway, after about 5 minutes, on the hill going up to the junction, it has a 40mph limit, which i was doing in 4th, but suddenly felt like it hit a proverbial wall & had no more power, even dropping down to 3rd, & full throttle, i could only make 30mph. no smoke out back like last time & once on the motorway (although it took the whole of the slip road to get up to 60mph), it went fine, apart from the hills, where it struggled to keep to 70 ... it acts more like a fully loaded naturally aspirated ldv 400."

     

    Mine is doing exactly that. 

     

    When pulling away it seems to take ages to get up to speed (70), but once up to speed seems fine.

    It is not limp mode as no error codes and will not get above 50 in limp mode.

    Only recently started doing this.

     

    Anyone got any ideas what is causing it and how to fix it.

     

    Bill

  4. Hi

    Been away for a few weeks on holiday and when i returned and started the car the orange engine light stayed on.

    Stopped and restarted the engine but it stayed on.

    Took it for a drive and the light started to flicker and dim then went out.

    Came  on/off a few times then stayed off.

    When you first start the car it is on and flickering (not flashing) then after driving for a bit it flickers then dims then goes out.

    Not sure where to start so wondered if anyone has any ideas where to begin.

    Not got any software to read focus fault codes but i do have vagcom for my galaxy.

     

    Bill

     

     

  5. I have a Bluetooth rear view mirror i got off eBay.

    It works ok although the mirror is a bit on the dark side but not a real problem.

    It just clips over the existing mirror and is recharged inside the house with a mains adapter, seems to last ages on a charge.

    Also have a visor Bluetooth kit i bought from Carphone wharehouse in my other car.

    It also works ok but stops the sun visor folding up all the way but we live with it.

     

    Bill

  6. Hi

    The ticking noise is normal as it is the fuel pump for the heater.

    I would look at the pump on the engine bulkhead behind the fuel filter.

    It should run when the engine is turned on and stop a few minutes after the car is turned off.

    Just turn on the ignition and you should hear/feel it running. If not then you need to fix/replace it as it helps pump the water round the aux heater.

    If you have vagcom then you can use it to see the temps the heater is running at to see if it is working ok.

     

    Hope that helps.

     

    Bill

  7. There here on ebay follow link although I think there a little overpriced

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eberspacher-glowplug-D3WZ-D4WZ-D5WZ-water-heaters-12v-/280767201725?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item415f0781bd

     

    Should also be available from VW dealers cheaper pt no. 7M3 963 319A Or Ford pt no. 1257205

     

     

     

    Hi.I have just bought a glow plug from VW dealer for my D5W-Z auxillary heater on my Galaxy.It has exactly the same number on it as the VW part in your post.Would you know if its likely to be the correct part as the attached wires are confusing me a bit. I understand that the existing partv in the heater has a threaded top and no fixed wires.Cheers.

     

    You need to remove the existing wires from the main multi plug and then install the wires on the new plug in their place.

    I did it over a year ago but cannot remember which wires go into which hole in the plug. A search might find a post that says.

  8. if your old plug has a threaded nut on then this new one with wires is the wrong one, its for the later heater, take it back for a refund and get the beru one from a gsf dealer it will be much cheaper as well. the beru numbers are in the other reply , the one ending 340 is what you need, its then a straight swop over. very odd for the vw man to say thats the only part available, they have all the parts avaialble at my local dealer 1 sounds like he cant be bothered to help you.

     

    Think you are wrong about the plug.

    The one with the wires is a new modified one that is supposed to last longer.

    It will fit but like chrispb123456 posted, you need to remove the old plug and wires and install the new plug and fit the wires into the main multi plug in the heater.

    That is what I did last year and it works fine.

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