Bouncy Pete

Thanks for the replies everyone. We've swapped cars back to our usual arrangement, I've got my ancient BMW back and my wife has the Galaxy so I can't really do any more investigation, at least not for a couple of days anyway. I’ve sat back and had a good think about how an air con system works and I’ve realised that the compressor must not be working as the output pipe does not get hot. I’d initially thought the compressor was ok as it spins when the engine is running and it stops when Econ is selected. I can only conclude that the compressor has an internal failure and I’m never going to get cool air if the refrigerant does not get hot when it is compressed. This will be expensive. Doh. For what it's worth the car does not have roof vents so I believe it only has a single climate control system and the Autocentre actually put 725g of refrigerant in the car (in the middle of the 700 + 50 range).

Last night on the way back from work (after midnight) the air-con pipe wasn't cold like it was during the day. This morning I've run a Vag-Com scan of the HVAC system which showed no faults. I've been trying to locate the loations of any pressure switches and temperature sensors in the air-con system on google to no avail. If I cycle the air con on my ancient BMW I can clearly hear a flap moving in the dashboard. Should I be able to hear any valves or flaps moving in the dashboard when I cycle the Econ button on the control unit of my Galaxy?

I believe they leak checked the car before regassing the system. At least that's what they told me they would do first but I couldn't actually see them working from where I was sat. There sounds to be a subtle can change in engine load when the air con clutch engages so I think the compressor is working ok, especially as the big pipe is cold. I'll check again after the drive home tonight. I currently suspect the flaps our ducting inside the car. I can't hear any ducts or flaps moving when I turn the AC on and off.

I have a 2004 Tdi (130 bhp) Galaxy. The Air con has not been blowing cold air for a long time so I’ve had it regassed today at an F1 Autocentre. They told me the system still had pressure but only contained 65g of gas as opposed to the 700g of gas that it should have. However it still doesn’t seem to be blowing cold air out of the vents. The centre of the compressor is spinning when the engine is running so I believe the compressor is driving and the fat pipe going through the bulkhead of the engine bay feels cold to the touch. Although I’ve got access to Vag-Com I have yet to run a test on it. For what it’s worth, the last time I used Vag-Com I recall an error regarding an engine temp sensor. Also the cruise control switch on the indicator stalk doesn’t work. I doubt the cruise control wiring has anything to do the air con but I thought I’d mention it. Does the air-con have an input from the engine temp sensor? If not, any ideas what to look for.

Update. Now the turbo is out I can see it's labeled KKK not Borg warner. I'd sid it was a Borg unit because a turbo company said it was a Borg unit due to the part numbers. Anyway. It's dead and the initial question remains valid. Can I replace the original unit with a Garrett unit?

It's almost removed. I'm struggling removing the oil feed pipe from the front of the engine but I've found I've got a catastrophic failure of the turbo. Whilst the turbine spins freely the compressor has sheared off the shaft and is wedge in the compressor housing. So my question remains. Do I have to fit a Borg Warner turbo or can I fit a Garrett unit. Garrett turbo's are more readily available and cheaper than the Borg Warner units

Thanks for taking the time to reply, looking at the cam belt cover my engine code is ASZ 346051 the build date appears to be 23/09/03 and it's fitted in a 2004 car. I haven't ruled out a blockage in the intercooler or inlet but I suspect the collapsing pipe is due to the engine sucking more air than the turbo compressor is delivering. I'm part way through removing the turbo from the car to check it out properly but I've had to stop due to the rain. I'll post back as I learn more.

I have an issue with the turbo on my car. It's fine at idle but screeches as it spins up and the hose between the intercooler and inlet manifold collapses as you rev the engine. Until I remove the turbo and look at it properly I can't tell if it is simply a carbon build up causing the issue or a problem with the variable nozzle vanes. With the exhaust pipe removed from the turbo it spins very freely with no sign that anything is rubbing on the turbine. There is a small amount of axial play and a tiny amount of radial play in the bearings. I think this play is normal. I've yet to remove the turbo but I've stuck a digital camera into the engine bay and photographed the data plate. Whilst the picture isn't perfect as far as I can make out the turbo part number is 038253019HV520 or KP39B-0005 which is made by Borg Warner. A lot of web sites show the car is often fitted with a Garrett 720855-5006S (038253016) turbo. Some places I phoned up for a replacement turbo say Borg Warner and Garrett turbochargers are not interchangeable and some say they are. Are they interchangeable?

Thanks for this. Now I've got my starter for 10 I'll get my multimeter out when I get chance.

Firstly I've done a search on this and I'm unure about a couple of things I've read. I have a 130bhp 2004 TDI Galaxy. The light on the dash works when if switch it on but I can't set a speed to maintain. Firstly, I understand the first thing to look at is the brake pedal and clutch pedal switches. Secondly, the perished hose that comes up in lots a my searches only relates to petrol Galaxies and not late TDI's. Is this correct? TIA

Thanks for the advise. If I buy a remote key from Ebay I realise I can just transfer the blade from my existing key. It also looks like there is a removable black chip inside the key fob. Do I just transfer this to the new key fob to make it work the ignition?

Thanks for the reply. Here's the story so far. When I turn the key in the door 3 times the door lock LED comes on. During this time I hold the lock button on the key fob and press the unlock button 3 times, release and the key fob LED blinks but the door LED stays steady. When the door LED goes out the key fob fails to operate the central locking. Any ideas as to what I'm doing wrong?

My remote became intermittant so I've changed my batteries. Since then it has worked a couple of times but generally it doesn't work. The thing is I only have one key with a remote built in and one normal key without a remote. I've tried the above proceedure and it all seems to work, I can get the door lock LED to flash and then the remote fob to flash etc but it still doesn't lock/unlock the doors. Is this because this proceedure is to sync a second remote and requires at least one remote to be working with the car. Is there any way to get just one remote sync'd with the car without paying Ford