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Ford Galaxy Owners Club

28vr6

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Everything posted by 28vr6

  1. I am assuming yours is a petrol version - When in the drivers seat and you select CC On can you hear the relay click from behind the radio LH side if not then from my experience the best place to start if you have the Ford TIS electrical diagrams and a multimeter is to remove the radio ( check you've got the code!) insert right hand into hole reach to the left find the metal pillar and feel for an aluminium box ( 4x3x1" approx) this is the speed control module, on it will be a plug, release plug and ease towards you this will have all the inputs/outputs. check for continuity between the pins from the CC stalk On/Off set etc, check the power from the fuse 3 I think). Then check for a voltage on the purple pin which is the speed sender signal this also controls the radio GALA (makes the audio increase with increased speed) and feeds the engine management if no voltage present then it could be the instrument cluster not outputting the signal on pin 7 (purple) of the red plug the speed in signal is on pin 27 ( green/white). If this is the case then you'll need to remove pin 7 wire from the plug and splice onto pin 27 wire. refit everything and see if the relay now clicks, if so have a test drive good luck :blush:
  2. Don't bother with the Haynes Manual as it is too basic for the 2.8 V6 my manual is a waste of garage space to be honest, look on EBay for the Sharan CDROM workshop manual which covers the v6 as it is basically/ exactly the same car. The engine is also in the VW Golf corrado and a CD covers that as well but the Sharan cd is the best value for money and info :blush:
  3. Could be a loose connection on the Inst Cluster, I had this on mine but it was the speed pulse feeding the Oil sensing circuit and putting the light + buzzer on, on investigation I found a small ammount of plastic swarf from the plug moulding jamming in the pin hole causing intermittent loss of signal. However the obvious thing is to swap the cluster with a known good one to see if the fault has gone.
  4. For the sun sensor, I found mine on the middle front next to the windscreen, how you get to the wiring - you'll need a very very small person to crawl in under the dash or it looks like a very deep strip of it
  5. The refrigerant is filled by weight as stated on the plaque on the engine bay
  6. Those faults all look like they're related to the main electrical plug at the rear right (viewed from front) of the engine block either dodgy connection or water has got in, try wriggling it when running and see if anything changes, if it does inspect it broken / cut wires
  7. I've found my door harness connectors to be the weak point in the electrics, often having to disconnect and squish the female connectors to reform to the original shape and re-instate the connection - maybe the stress on the connector from the rubber boot pulling at it each time the door opens it is the cause?
  8. If the cruise control stalk is below the ind stalk could be a loose connection when the left (down) ind is selected or poor switch contact in the CC stalk suffering from vibration from the operation of the ind stalk
  9. For all your questions go here http://vwnavi.com/forums/ :16:
  10. Should've mentioned the stabiliser, vital on any journey you never know when you need its assistance in damping down a potential snake, having towed 30ft glider trailers to the moon and back they are vital on any towing journey. The spring leaf friction plate needs to be regularly adjusted for best damping as it is effectively a disc brake and wears down in use thus becomes less good at damping. The Alko built in stabilisers us internal friction plates clamped to the ball hitch - Do Not lubricate the ball otherwise you'll trash the plates. The ball must be spotlessly clean metal, Alko long reach balls come painted Black which must be removed before use - Happy towing :(
  11. The first time we took our new van for a test weekend away the car (lagunaMk1 - never touch french again) decidede it would demonstrate it's dislike for towing by blowing the head gasket so our 1st night was in a layby in dorset, woken up to the sound of tractors in a ploughing competion good to watch whilst waiting for the tow home - Green Flag through the Caravan Club tow you to your holiday with van and tow you back at the end - cheap compared to the others :(
  12. When the fan kicks in, the temp is probably maintained at the higher gauge position until the vehicle begins moving where the extra cooling effect of the airflow combined with the fans pulls the temp gauge back down to 'normal', the fans then shut down until needed again - only a theory B)
  13. Have you tried the temp sensors, there are three I believe on my V6 so any one could cause a premature warning, mounted on front right of block, could try removing one at a time to fault find - HTH B)
  14. Well it's a 2.8 v6 petrol engined galaxy that goes really well but needs lots of motion lotion regularly, but the temp guage has never been higher than 1/2 way ............ unless it knackered which it isn't as I've had replacement instrument cluster fitted and everything is normal :lol:
  15. I think a side by side comparison would be required to fully appreciate the possibility of fitting your seat onto the swivel base - not really inspected the bottom of my seats that well but from memory it all seems to be welded together, I assume thats what you were asking. The other possibility is to remove and swap the seat covering between yours and the other seat which could be easier as the seat runners should be the same width on both - but a comparison would have to be made ;)
  16. My oil temp is about the same as yours had it up to 105 on a hard driven journey once, the cooling fans kick in quite early as I've never had the water temp display anything other than 50% full scale deflection on the guage - even when towing a caravan and a fully loaded car
  17. I too was not impressed by Frauds & VW only selling a complete tensioner when the
  18. Maybe the back door solenoid is duff, whilst the electrical connections may be intact to siganal opening and closing to it and the other doors the solenoid itself cannot release the lock ^_^
  19. Lookd like my Witter but, try searching through the tow bar m'facturers site, Ebay etc to see if anything matches your bar
  20. James, are you wishing to connect to the ECU with Vag-Com to try and sort your air bag light, if so be warned that the boys at Ross-Tech advise that some airbags with certain part numbers should not be interrogated as they may work as advertised. http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/vw_issues.html should give you the advice for all your ideas HTH :rolleyes:
  21. A bit of a long shot, is the detachable keypad secured correctly, and are the gold contacts on it shiny and not deformed
  22. The video is shut off by the GALA signal fed from the vehicle speed sensor usually on a purple wire to the nav unit black ISO connector pin 1, if a switch is used on this line then the video shut off can be overridden, do not put the switch in line with the GAL feed to the 26 way connector pin5 as this will remove the signal to the Sat nav and the positional error will be quite large. This site is agold mine of info: http://vwnavi.com/forums/ Hope that helps
  23. I've a replacement cluster on it's way due to the oil alarm and flashing oilcan on whether the sensor is open or closed, initially after start up there's +5V on the connnetor for the sensor after a few minutes that disappears, obviously the TTL or chip voltage driver in the cluster is packing up causing a trigger of the oil warning circuit, which is very annoying to the ears, hopefully the gal will be fighting fit at some point over the w/end. :rolleyes:
  24. If your Gal has CC then the pump is in the NS wing behind the indicator with associated pipes and wiring :D
  25. Done the battery thing, checked the sensor operates with multimeter, physically checked the engine, checked the TIS wiring diags for all years/ models - V6 not fitted with level sensor, VW engine cd says only Hi & Lo pressure sensors fitted. The fault is open circuit wire or cluster as the connector when shorted to earth didn't change anything, so I'm afraid it's probably a new cluster as the cheap option (fix wire) never happens to me ^_^
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