28vr6

Ive got a V reg 2.8 Ghia as far as I'm aware the only ones with captains seats are the Ghia models

I had the same discharging problem less than a week before I had recharge, the old battery(less than a year old) was replaced with a calcium version since then haven't had to recharge at all so if your s is not a calcium this probably the reason

Not sure on the 2.3 but I've changed the guides on a 2.8v which involved a complete disembowelling of the car to get access, the timing didn't need to be disturbed as the guides slipped out easily and fitted easily

Speed sensor feeds the speedo on pin 9 of the green plug at the back, mine was making poor contact, the same signal then feeds the CControl from another pin (can't remember off top of head). I linked the input to the output and has been fine for 2 years

You'll also need an isolation relay from towsure otherwise the bulb failure circuitry will light up like Vegas

My V6 was a *&$$ never did get the frame back in without breaking it up to fit, tried removing everything in the way still no joy, as an a/c engineer this was probably the most difficult I've tackled in 30 yrs, may replace the frame one day and have another go, designed the car around the pollen filter I think

It'd make a good spare, if the spares ok of course to use as a main running tyre

So if can understand correctly the sat nav is a Ford Navi and the map doesn't keep up with the vehicles position. This is due to no GALA or Canbus signal depending on your galaxy year/model, a quick check for the GALA signal is to listen to the volume on the radio it should increase with speed, if not then it's missing from pin 5 on the 26 pin plug and pin 7 of the black 8 pin plug. Did you fit this or was it factory fitted?

My VagCom & VWtool s/ware communicate perfectly with my Galaxy 2.8 V6 VW engine and the rest of the VW in Ford clothing

Average solo driving = 26-28mpg, 2 x adults + 2 kids = 25 ish mpg, attach anything to the towbar always 18 mpg no matter what speed I do :lol: I've got the manual version and it's great for hacking off the youffs at the lights :lol:

And the door is on the wrong side - not much of a good deal really ;)

If you can identify the leak point then using a mini blow torch you could solder the hole (scrub the affected area with wire wool or similar abrasive to get a nice shiny clean metal area) which is cheaper than a new rad and infinately better than rad weld which is only a short term solution and not guaranteed to be 100% effective + clogs up the rad channels making the situation worse - less water movement = hotter running, higher pressure more splits in rad my opinion only

swapping clusters is easy, move steering wheel so the bit with the big hole is uppermost and set steering height adjustment to lowest, undo instrument shroud screws (x2) ease out shroud, remove inst cluster screws (x2) rotate cluster towards you, undo red & black loom connectors ( might only have red connector depending on model) ease left hand side of cluster between wheel and console. (Haynes mode on) Refitting is the reverse of removal (Haynes mode off). Ensure you get the exact cluster part no as they are model and spec dependant. A new cluster will require the mileage adjusting with vagcom or similar OBDII reader

I've just suffered a temp gauge problem where the reading has gone from the usual needle between the O & R of norm to just into the white area, traced to faulty instrument cluster, as I have a spare it proved the fault, this may be the same fault for your symptoms. I don't think the vagcom can recode the cluster for this fault but I would love to be corrected

a self repairing overpass :lol: - a set of diodes that turn ac into dc voltage ( a diode will only pass current one way, therefore in the right configuration with ac volts going + then -ve only the + volts are let through giving a rough dc output)

The instrument cluster has a speed signal fed to it which also switches the oil warning on at a given speed, pin 9 (off the top of my head) on the red plug, check the state of the socket using a sewing pin as anything bigger will splay the connection. I had a bit of plastic swarf stuck in mine that needed a magnifying glass to see but caused very similar problems as you have

I concur with maroontdi, as I had an irritating rattle which by accident I found to be the Cat conv heatshield - the rear mounting straps had broken the weld and resonated at certain RPM then disappeared if idling. Fixed with one BIG jubilee clip strapped round whole lot

Mikej, The ford TIS diagram says the module is under the dash, drivers side so it appears to have moved on the Mk2, hopefully the attachment should help with the pinouts when you find the SCM mk2_cc.doc

Mikej, I'd have to check my Ford TIS for your yr/model as it is quite likely the SCM has been stuffed elsewhere but the guidance given on location is always a bit vague and the diagrams are equally so, I'll try tonight

AIUI the MFD takes tyre wear into consideration, a few mm here or there won't make it too far from accurate as the Sat will update the accuraccy every min or so, even a long journey would only be a metre or so out

Mikej, the SCM is a well hidden beast but essentially it lies to the left of the radio behind one of the metal pillars facing the passengers side, behind the bank of switches (about the size of a fag packet). You could remove the instrument facia panel for a better look/access. Did the relay click when the CC switch is made, if not you could try for a GALA voltage approx 10V (actually a pulse signal) on the radio plug which should be on the purple pin or if you have the Ford 2007 radio Red wire to pin 5. If the GALA signal is not there then the SCM will not latch the relay to set the pump going.

The selector cables at the stick are prone to slipping as there is a plastic clamp that holds the cable at the correct adjustment but they can slip on the metal pushrods, try setting up the gear stick and adjust the cables to the recomended lengths

Pi x D or 3.142 x (15" + (55% of 215mm x2)) or 3.142 x (406mm + 236mm) =2018 approx or in words wheel diameter including tyre height multiplied by Pi (3.142) :ph34r:

The following are the SCM inputs & outputs: pin1 blue/white to pump vacuum :blush: pin2 brown/ red to pump+ pin3 white to ON switch pin4 brown to earth pin5 blue to switch pin7 purple to speed signal pin8 red to set switch pin9 yellow to switch pin11 black to pump motor earth

You could check at the pump but until you get the relay clicking over then there won't be any thing to measure at the pump that's why the speed control module is a good place to start as all the signals necessary are sent there. I'll dig out my diagrams tonight and post the pinouts, as I can't remember the exact pin allocations :blush: