28vr6

Ive got a V reg 2.8 Ghia as far as I'm aware the only ones with captains seats are the Ghia models

I had the same discharging problem less than a week before I had recharge, the old battery(less than a year old) was replaced with a calcium version since then haven't had to recharge at all so if your s is not a calcium this probably the reason

Not sure on the 2.3 but I've changed the guides on a 2.8v which involved a complete disembowelling of the car to get access, the timing didn't need to be disturbed as the guides slipped out easily and fitted easily

Speed sensor feeds the speedo on pin 9 of the green plug at the back, mine was making poor contact, the same signal then feeds the CControl from another pin (can't remember off top of head). I linked the input to the output and has been fine for 2 years

You'll also need an isolation relay from towsure otherwise the bulb failure circuitry will light up like Vegas

My V6 was a *&$$ never did get the frame back in without breaking it up to fit, tried removing everything in the way still no joy, as an a/c engineer this was probably the most difficult I've tackled in 30 yrs, may replace the frame one day and have another go, designed the car around the pollen filter I think

It'd make a good spare, if the spares ok of course to use as a main running tyre

So if can understand correctly the sat nav is a Ford Navi and the map doesn't keep up with the vehicles position. This is due to no GALA or Canbus signal depending on your galaxy year/model, a quick check for the GALA signal is to listen to the volume on the radio it should increase with speed, if not then it's missing from pin 5 on the 26 pin plug and pin 7 of the black 8 pin plug. Did you fit this or was it factory fitted?

My VagCom & VWtool s/ware communicate perfectly with my Galaxy 2.8 V6 VW engine and the rest of the VW in Ford clothing

Average solo driving = 26-28mpg, 2 x adults + 2 kids = 25 ish mpg, attach anything to the towbar always 18 mpg no matter what speed I do :lol: I've got the manual version and it's great for hacking off the youffs at the lights :lol:

And the door is on the wrong side - not much of a good deal really ;)

If you can identify the leak point then using a mini blow torch you could solder the hole (scrub the affected area with wire wool or similar abrasive to get a nice shiny clean metal area) which is cheaper than a new rad and infinately better than rad weld which is only a short term solution and not guaranteed to be 100% effective + clogs up the rad channels making the situation worse - less water movement = hotter running, higher pressure more splits in rad my opinion only

swapping clusters is easy, move steering wheel so the bit with the big hole is uppermost and set steering height adjustment to lowest, undo instrument shroud screws (x2) ease out shroud, remove inst cluster screws (x2) rotate cluster towards you, undo red & black loom connectors ( might only have red connector depending on model) ease left hand side of cluster between wheel and console. (Haynes mode on) Refitting is the reverse of removal (Haynes mode off). Ensure you get the exact cluster part no as they are model and spec dependant. A new cluster will require the mileage adjusting with vagcom or similar OBDII reader

I've just suffered a temp gauge problem where the reading has gone from the usual needle between the O & R of norm to just into the white area, traced to faulty instrument cluster, as I have a spare it proved the fault, this may be the same fault for your symptoms. I don't think the vagcom can recode the cluster for this fault but I would love to be corrected

a self repairing overpass :lol: - a set of diodes that turn ac into dc voltage ( a diode will only pass current one way, therefore in the right configuration with ac volts going + then -ve only the + volts are let through giving a rough dc output)