craig245t

Anyone.........

Hi all My 2000 1.9 TDi (110bhp) PD engined Galaxy has developed 2 problems. I've had a search but can't pin it down. The car has started to hesitate under light throttle, if you give it more gas it picks up and goes. This happens both cold and warm but most noticably in 1st and 2nd - not sure why. I had the same symptoms about a year ago with a VAG COM fault "coolant temp sensor - open or short circuit". I replaced the coolant temp sensor on the back of the block and the fault disappeared. This was accompanied by the car going into limp home mode when you drove it hard. Using this forum I freed off a sticky turbo vane actuator (thanks to all who posted) and the car has been great. The second fault which may or may not be related to the first is this. Only when the engine is cold, when you come of the throttle to change gear there is a whoosing / whinning / air being restricted type noise. VERY hard to explain. I'm convinced this is linked to the turbo and only happens 5 or 6 times then won't do it again until the engine has been sitting for a few hours. I know these turbos don't have wastegates - does anyone know how or where they dump pressure when you come of the throttle. I know you shouldn't jump to conclusions when fault finding but i'm convinced it's turbo or turbo ancillaries related. I've checked for split hoses and can't find any but cannot find the n75 vaccuum valve i've heard mentioned. I only have the free version of VAG Com which doesn't do everything but no fault codes are logged. Is there anyone near Edinburgh with VAG COM that knows what they're doing. Thank you in advance for any advice offered. Thanks for taking the time to read this.......

you can remove the clutch master cylinder without affecting the brakes as it is separate although fed from the same reservoir. The master is removed from inside the car after removing the clutch pedal. You need to work out where the problem lies before removing anything though. Your problem is almost certainly hydraulic and not mechanical. If there is fluid underneath the car or the level in the reservoir is dropping then its probably the slave cylinder in the gearbox bellhousing leaking (nasty). If the pedal is soft and the clutch bites almost right down on the floor then it's probably the master. I've had the same problem twice in 2 years. This WILL sound ridiculous but try it first as it now works for me every time the pedal feels soft. Using your hand rattle the clutch pedal up and down and side to side 20 or 30 times then see how it feels with your foot - I did say it would sound ridiculous. I am convinced the the problem is something to do with the master cylinder not sitting square in relation to the pedal (it sits right behind the pedal) and when operated doesn't move the fluid effectively. Ford deny there is a problem but the number of posts about this problem says otherwise. My suggestion works for me and may be a specific cure for my car but try it - it wont cost you a penny. IYour master cyl may be knackered and it's worth noting that these clutch systems dont bleed in the normal way. Read the ford tis disc first. Good luck

Hi All I've had both of the problems you mention. My booster heater never worked from the day i bought the car and the temp gauge would (after a long time) start to rise. Just when you think you're about to get some heat in the cabin it drops away again to nearly cold. I always assumed this was because the thermostat had just opened allowing hot water to flow round the whole engine and the pipework that runs to the rear of the car for the booster heater even although it was not firing up. This mixing of the heated water with the unheated water in the rest of the system caused the temp to drop for a short while. Just think about the way a cooling system works....until the thermostat opens water is only flowing round the engine block. When it opens it flows around the whole cooling system. This also happens exactlythe same on my mates Seat Alhambra (same car different badge). I've just fitted a new glow plug to the booster heater and it fired up right away. The engine now warms up much quicker although the gauge will drop slightly half way through warming up which supports my theory of the thermostat opening allowing unheated water to mix. The drop is only slight and the cabin is nice and warm...no more wearing 3 layers to out in the car! The second problem only happens when, as you say, the engine is cold.....if you accelerate from say 40 to 60 in 4th the engine will drop power. This doesn't happen when the engine is warm - I had always assumed this was the engine protecting itself from possible damage but i'm interested in seatkids comments. I'll do some checking if it ever stops raining!!

Have you raised the engine...I havent carried out this procedure (yet..fingers crossed). Have a look at the following in case there is something you have missed...good luck. Detach the left-hand front wheel. Slacken the wheel bolts. Raise the vehicle. Remove the engine undershield (four bolts, two nuts) (right-hand side shown). Lower the vehicle. Pull out the headlamp cover (if present). Remove the upper part of the air cleaner housing. 1 Pull off the mass air flow (MAF) connector. 2 Detach the intake hose from the air cleaner housing (one clamp). 3 Open the three clips. Note: Unclip the circlip. Remove the lower part of the air cleaner housing (push fit). Pull off the breather hose. Detach the secondary air injection hose from the secondary air injection pump (only vehicles with secondary air system). Remove the alternator air cooling hose. Raise the vehicle. Remove the front exhaust pipe. 1 Flange bolts 2 Exhaust manifold nuts 3 Bracket bolt. 4 Rubber insulator. Dismantle the right-hand and left-hand wheel suspensions (right-hand side shown). 1 Detach the stabiliser link rod. 2 Disconnect the transverse arm ball joint from the spindle carrier (two bolts). Detach the steering gear from the front axle crossmember and tie it up. Detach the engine roll restrictor from the transmission. Note: Support the front axle crossmember using a transmission jack. Detach the front axle crossmember and lower it. CAUTION: The CV joint nearest the wheel must not be bent more than 50

Try this first.....i was about to put mine into a garage for a new slave cylinder (

In my opinion there is a problem with Ford Galaxy clutch master cylinders. I had the same symptoms at the start of the year...the pedal felt strange for a few days then went straight to the floor and didn't come back up. I started to investigate and found the following:- 1. The slave cylinder inside the gearbox (expensive due to labour) is the most common hydraulic component to fail. DO NOT jump to conclusions though - follow a logical and simple fault diagnosis procedure. 2. If the slave cylinder is faulty it normally leaks fluid past the seals into the cluth bellhousing then onto the road or onto the engine undertray - has the fluid in the brake/clutch cylinder dropped? Is there signs of fluid under the gearbox/bellhousing or on the road where you park. If so then the slave may be faulty. 3. Check the fluid level in the combined brake/clutch reservoir. Slacken the bleed screw and fit a one person bleed pipe. Pump the clutch pedal by hand. If you dont get fluid coming out of the pipe the the master cylinder is faulty. Think about it - if the master cylinder is not producing pressure then it cannot operate the slave cylinder. 4. When the master cylinder fails it does not usually leak fluid externally. I dont know why. 5. There is an unusual method to bleed the clutch after fitting a new master cylinder. I cannot provide details just now but suggest you buy a Ford TIS CD from e-bay for about

Is there anyone in central scotland with VAG COM?

Thanks for the quick reply NikpV....Engine oil Spec Noted. I have only owned the car for a couple of weeks.It was a private sale and when buying I thought the heater was working because there was warm air coming out of the rear vents when the heater was switched on. I'd never come across this arrangement before. I now understand (am i right) that the booster heater helps to warm the cooling system of the car faster so that it can provide warm air to the cabin quicker. Not worried by the heater not working as i bought the car for such a good price and am absolutely delighted with it....it just annoys me that something is not working. I am a competant DIYer (classic car restorer) and will be able to fix this if I can clear the faults stored as suggested in other peoples posts. Excellent site with quality information/discussion. Thanks again...

My booster heater under the car is also stone cold all the time. Can anyone tell me what VAG COM is. Is it a piece of software that can be run on a pc or is it a piece of diagnostic hardware. I am very reluctant to go anywhere near a Ford main dealer, they cant even deciede what engine is fitted to my car. They tell me its 115bhp but have never heard of the pump duse engine (I wanted to know what grade of engine oil to use - One said dont use fully synthetic oil in a diesel as its too thin!! Another main dealer said if i use anything other than fully synthetic the engine will be seriously damaged.Im now very confused). Car is late 2000 (X) 1.9TDi with new shape triangualr headlights if it helps. Thanks in advance

I wanted to check which model mine was before buying.... I phoned Ford and they said the only way to be sure was to give them the chassis number. Mine is 115PS and (co-incidentaly??) has a silver badge with a red border on the boot. What Ford couldnt tell me was whether my engine (1.9tdi 115PS 2000 X reg) is a PD engine. They didnt seem to know what the PD engine was. Can anyone tell me what engine i have as having read the posts on engine oil i dont want to get it wrong. The car is the facelift model with the triangular headlamps. Is the facelift model (this is how it was described to me) actually a MK2. The car was registered in Sept 2000. Thanks in advance...