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Ford Galaxy Owners Club

Jeff115

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About Jeff115

  • Birthday 06/16/1963

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  • Vehicle Type
    Prev. 02 Gal 1.9tdi
  • Vehicle Model
    Ford
  • Region
    Scotland

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  1. Have a great Christmas y'all and a happy New Yesr, Slainte :( Jeff.
  2. I would not ignore the recurring booster heater overheated fault code. If you did not disturb the coolant circuit then you may disconnected the overheating sensor or broken the red wires ?? on re-assembly of the booster thus the o/c signal. If you do suspect an overheating sensor malfunction (though I don't understand why?) then you can check it by measuring the resistance against temperature - ohms should drop with temperature up to 120 degrees. You can test the coolant temp sender (blue wires) in the same way. J.
  3. Hi John, Did you disturb the coolant circuit / lose water / add air during your work on the booster heater? If so you may have to bleed the coolant, incl. the additional pipes to the booster, as the level may be low or air may have entered and air locked at the booster. Remeber to bleed the coolant with the front of the car raised so that any air at the booster end of the circuit may rise etc. If not then you may have to dismantle and decoke - was covered last year, from memory - try a search. Regards, Jeff.
  4. I'd agree with Matt Jr - sounds normal under heavy acceleration particularly on a still day but try some Redex or equivalent in your next fill. Regards, Jeff.
  5. That's a bit extreme and expensive :( Eatontoomanygalaxys - try some MOLYslip additive in the gear oil - you may get away with it for a while at least. Regards, Jeff.
  6. Or in the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system especially if the tdi is generally used for short stop/start trips. A dose of Redex in the fuel tank preceding the refill that you use during the MOT plus a few 'Italian tune up' runs should do the trick for borderline emissions. Also as MM says - don't spare the horses on the way to the test centre. :D Nice one on the MOT pass, gregers :( Regards, Jeff.
  7. Belated happy birthday, bigdaddy :lol: Hope that you get your day off and birthday drinks soon. Jeff.
  8. Thanks Mum, such sincerity, I'm touched :huh: NOT :huh: So it's open season then :huh: Hey, Masked, and you are how many months younger than me??? >17 and <19 =? Later, J.
  9. Thanks a lot BigJ, You cut me deep, Mum and Masked, :D I thought that the pension age was 65 :D Regards, Jeff.
  10. Hi folks, I reckon that the postage charge @
  11. Turnip, I recall that this button controls the fan unit located over the N/S rear wheel arch i.e. for the third row of seats. This unit can be heated, independently of the front and contolled by the dial over the N/S centre pillar, as it has a seperate matrix and coolant feed. However as it does not have air feed from the air con unit in the engine compartment then air blown from it cannot be cooled. You can however get an 'air con cooled' air feed to the second row of seats via the floor level central air feed which is controlled by the front fans with air distribution control pointed to feet. If you're not getting cold air with your air con switched on in warm outside temperatures then the air con circuit may need to be re-gassed. Do a search as this topic has been covered before and also comparative tests, I recall, between outside temperatures and temps at the vents. Hope this helps, Jeff.
  12. Ivor, After removing the wheel and spraying the nuts with WD40, I had to use an extension bar to get clearance out of the wheel arch and then with a torque wrench for additional leverage. This allowed me to initially slacken the nuts before use the allen key etc. Hope this helps, Jeff.
  13. Hi tiny and Ivor, I replaced my ARB drop links in March, see here replacing anti-roll bar drop links and there was already some good tips and pics in this topic. I found it easiest to jack the car up and remove the wheel. I've seen on another post that it's advisable to change the bushes also and at the same time. Let us know how you get on, Ivor, Regards, Jeff.
  14. Happy 31st Glen :angry: and thanks for starting and hosting the forum, Jeff.
  15. Personally I would consider oil change frequency of every 3k miles / twice yearly excessive but subject to type of driving and conditions. I would aim to change both our petrol and diesel every 6k / once yearly, whichever comes first. I would agree with Irv Gordon's tips here Irv Gordon
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